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fuel guage

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tinman58

tinman58

Jedi Knight
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After taking apart the fuel guage on the TR3 I found out why it did not register correctly. The out side face and bezel looked very nice but the inside was corroded and nasty. I do not think that it is rebuildable. Who would be a good supplier to purchase one? My local guy must be on vacation as I can't get ahold of him. Nothing on E-Bay for awhile and I want something that I know works good. Very emberssing running out of petrol in a classic.
Dan
 
Hello Dan. Not an endorsement, but I have heard that these companies restore instruments and guages.

West Valley Instruments, 19314 Van Owen, Reseda, CA 91335, (818) 758-9500, and MO-MA, 1321 2nd St., Albuquerque, NM 87102, (505) 766-6661.

also, all sorts of gauges are always popping up on eBay

good luck
 
This site explains how to test/repair/rebuild them (I did mine using these instructions).

https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm

I realize yours may be too far gone but you may find it useful if you come across a better used one. Note too that a virtually identical gauge was used on MGAs and possibly others so perhaps you can expand your eBay search.
 
Thanks for the link but the gauge is to far gone for a rebuild that I could do the only thing good is the face, glass and bezel.
Dan
 
Geo Hahn said:
Note too that a virtually identical gauge was used on MGAs and possibly others so perhaps you can expand your eBay search.
Click to expand...
Also note that virtually identical is not the same as identical. In particular the calibration resistance that Barney gives (for an MGA) isn't quite right for a TR3. The principles are sound and the gauges look identical, certainly, but apparently the senders weren't quite the same and the gauges were calibrated to match.
 
But... you could buy a period gauge from another car and transfer your gauge face, glass, and bezel to it. Then you could follow Barney's instructions to calibrate the donor movement to match your sender.
 
I like that idea because all the gauges have weathered the same . a new gauge might look out of place.
Dan
 
TR3driver said:
Also note that virtually identical is not the same as identical. In particular the calibration resistance that Barney gives (for an MGA) isn't quite right for a TR3. The principles are sound and the gauges look identical, certainly, but apparently the senders weren't quite the same and the gauges were calibrated to match.
Click to expand...

It might not be quite right, but I've used those resistances on a couple of TR3 gauges I've calibrated, and the gauges, when installed matched the "stick method" pretty closely...at least close enough for my gauge and my friends gauge.
 
Dan,
I'm way late replying...been gone..
Did you get the fuel gauge problem solved? I've been fooling with TR3 gauges for years & I've seldom seen a non-repairable fuel gauge. The only thing that is terminal is the pointer....if it doesn't move freely ((turn the gauge in your hand; the pointer (needle) should flop back & forth.))it's gone for good.
Barney's method is OK but I use a 0-100 ohm pot, which duplicates the resistance of the Smiths FT3331/02 TR3 tank sending unit.
 
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