Fuel Gauge Again

[KVH]

I posted two weeks ago about my fuel gauge not working. With some help here I was able to confirm everything is working properly as far as "electrics," but I now see the problem.

In the manufacture of the float, the clamp around the base of the float was too tight and the float has a hole and indentation right there.

I can easily rotate the float so that the clamp is away from the crack.

I can order a new sender and float for $40 or so.

But can I repair that float instead? Any kind of fuel resistant epoxy, or other routine that would be worthwhile?

I'll get a totally refurbished fuel tank out of this process, so it's not all for naught. Just wondering if a float repair would be foolish. Draining and removing the tank again would make me a little grumpy.

thx

 

[TRopic6]

KVH,

My TR6 float sank to the bottom of the tank so I pulled the tank to replace it and clean & coat the tank. I noticed a crack in the plastic float at the seam where the float clips into the sender arm. After draining the gas out of the float, I had the bright idea to coat the float with the same POR15 tank sealant I was using to line the fuel tank. The float was on the bottom again within 6 months. The sealant didn't really adhere to the plastic float and had sloughed off the float. Based on info from this Forum I ordered a brass Ford fuel float (COAZ9202B) from a Mustang specialty place and clipped it in (after pulling the tank again).

I wouldn't bother trying a repair on the float - get a new brass one and fix it for good. You can remove the cover from the sender (bend a few clips) and clean it up.

Jeff
74.5 & 75 TR6

 

[dklawson]

Pin hole leaks in plastic floats can be "sealed" using a fine tip soldering iron (once you have gotten the fuel out of the inside of course). Only small cracks can be sealed with a soldering iron.

I have also used the Ford float. It works well. Search using the part number Jeff provided. They can be had for anywhere from $10 on up depending on shipping charges.

There is one important caveat about the Ford float. The Smiths float arm can have a sharp metal burr on the end of the formed loop that holds the float. Make sure you remove that burr from the float arm with a file so the end of the wire loop is smooth/rounded. If you fail to take this step the burr may cut a hole through your new brass float. Fortunately... you can solder those pin holes back up too (BTDT).

 

[HerronScott]

Keith and Elliot I believe both replaced their TR6 floats with the Ford brass ones and the TR4A one should be the same.

TR6 float replacement

Here's an updated link to the part at MAC's (I've not ordered one myself yet).

Ford Mustang brass float from MAC's

Part number is COAZ-9202-B.

Scott

 

[Geo Hahn]

Pin hole leaks in plastic floats can be "sealed" using a fine tip soldering iron (once you have gotten the fuel out of the inside of course). Only small cracks can be sealed with a soldering iron...

I have never tried on either of these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-80-watt-iron-67102.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-with-adjustable-temperature-96464.html

But I have repaired plastic with a soldering iron and strips cut from a milk bottle.

 

[KVH]

I like the idea of that Ford brass float. What about the anti-rattle ring? Will a new one fit?

About the plastic solder, that crack on mine is very small, about 3/16" at most. If I try that, should I add plastic?

Geo, any idea if plastic from a milk bottle would hold up in fuel? Even the plastic from that Harbor Freight kit would have to hold up in fuel.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Roger]

I have found that one of those orangy-coloured pill bottles in which one of my prescriptions is dispensed from my local pharmacy is just the right size. The top is water- (and fuel) proof when screwed on hard.

A perfect substitute, I think.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...Geo, any idea if plastic from a milk bottle would hold up in fuel?

No idea, my repair was a windscreen washer bottle.

If you decide to try a pill bottle, I have lots of empties from my Prozac. I'm Happy to share them. Real Happy. Always Happy.

 

[Gliderman8]

Keith and Elliot I believe both replaced their TR6 floats with the Ford brass ones and the TR4A one should be the same.
Part number is COAZ-9202-B.

Scott

That's correct Scott... I found that my plastic float was filled with fuel. It takes just about the same time to install the brass one as a new plastic one but you don't have to worry about the ethanol additive attacking the plastic.
I never did put on another anti-rattle ring and have not had a problem at all.

Note: I used some solder around the brass float to hold it in place. Don't heat it too much since it is a vacuum... a little solder at a time and let it cool before doing another section

 

[dklawson]

That's correct Scott... I found that my plastic float was filled with fuel.

Note: I used some solder around the brass float to hold it in place.

Was it necessary to solder the arm to the float? I have always found the Ford float to be just a bit larger in diameter than the Smiths plastic float so it is VERY securely held by the coil at the end of the float arm.

There is no vacuum used when they make a fuel float. There is no need to get the air out of it.

 

[Gliderman8]

Doug- you are correct... I meant to say that it is a sealed vessel and applying to much heat would not be good.
It is a tight fit, but just to make sure it did not pop out in the tank I elected to use solder... more peace of mind.

 

[tdskip]

If you decide to try a pill bottle, I have lots of empties from my Prozac. I'm Happy to share them. Real Happy. Always Happy.

Now <span style="font-weight: bold">that</span> was funny.