Fuel filters

[grandson]

I gather fuel filters were not original on the Healeys and since removing mine when I installed SS Petroflex braided lines on the tri-carb a few months ago, twice now I have had flooding problems on the first and third carbs presumably with foreign material affecting the float or seat. This never happened before after years of driving. Me thinks putting a filter back on is a good thing so that will be done. Any recommendations as to brand, type etc?

 

[Michael Oritt]

Any recommendations as to brand, type etc?

Grandson--

I use a Fram clear plastic in-line filter installed between the tank and fuel pump. Though the SU has a built-in filter I think it is best to keep junk out of all fuel line components. Mine is installed under the wheel arch and checking/changing it only involves pulling the left rear wheel. I cut a section out of the fuel line and installed the filter using the hose and clamps supplied--it is invisible yet easily accessed.

 

[Dave Russell]

A couple of years ago I replaced the fuel tank in my BN2 with a standard Moss replacement steel tank. The aluminum tanks were not available at the time.

At the same time, I added a small inline Fram #G3606 filter at the first carb inlet. Two years & 3,000 miles later the car started to experience fuel starvation problems. It finally refused to run at all. This on a long trip of course. The filter was plugged solid, so I bypassed it & everything OK again.

Ran about 50 miles more, found a filter at a small out of the way grocery store, & replaced the filter. At the stop for the night I pulled a carb top & found considerable rust powder in the float chambers. Cleaned out the chambers & float valves & proceeded. Checked a float chamber about 200 miles later & no rust powder. Quite a bit of rust powder had apparently accumulated during the 50 miles of running with no filter.

End of trip & time to review the situation. To my surprise, the Moss tank has no signs of rust prevention coating such as galvanizing inside. It is coated with a light rust powder inside. This, in a dry climate, year around heated storage, & tank kept well filled. I would not use anything but an aluminum tank in the future. The internal screen in the SU pump shows no signs of being plugged by this fine rust which apparently easily passes through. I cut the filter apart after the fuel had evaporated & shook out about a heaping tablespoon of rust powder.

The car now has a large Fram G3802A filter mounted at the tank outlet on the "top" side of the boot floor where it can be very easily checked or replaced. This in addition to the filter at the carbs. Obviously, two spare filters, one of each size, are carried now.

Conclusions are;
1- The rust powder may be too fine to do any damage if kept circulating through the carbs & maybe the SU screen is sufficient. I'm not inclined to accept this since the amount of rust collected in the float bowls in only 50 miles of driving without the filter was considerable. Remember, this is a fairly new tank in a dry climate.

2- Fuel tanks which are not internally galvanized are not acceptable even in dry climates. Aluminum fuel tanks are likely the best way to go. I believe that Michael in the above post has an aluminum tank.

3- Carry spare filters

4- Locate any filter where it is easily roadside accessible & don't hesitate to check/replace it at the first signs of fuel starvation.
D

 

[grandson]

Thanks Dave..very interesting information. Would the Fram G3606 filter you used fit on a '62 BT7 tri-carb? I've also been informed that installing the filter in the engine area could possible cause vapour lock therefore it's preferable to install it in the boot or under the rear seats. Commentary on that?

 

[Dave Russell]

I'm pretty sure that the G3606 could be fit into almost any area. It is about 1 7/8 long, excluding hose connections, by 1 1/4" diameter. Be aware that it has very limited junk holding capacity & carry a couple of spares. Mount it in a location where it can easily be replaced at roadside.

Vaporlock (when the fuel boils in the pump or lines) is something that usually occurs when the fuel is under vacuum. (on the suction side of the pump) & is much less likely to happen on the pressure side of the pump. I personally would mount the filter in the most easily accessable location downstream from the pump.
D

 

[BlackHealey]

I went to West Marine/BoatUS and purchased one of their glass/chrome marine grade fuel filters with replacement filter inserts. Although these cost a little more initially, the replacement filters are inexpensive. The filter body is clear glass, so you can see if it is clogged or if you have dirty, old or stale gas in the fuel line. You can also visually see if your fuel pump is pulling/pushing fuel properly when you hear the ticking. To replace the filter element, all you do is unscrew the glass tube, slide-out the old element and insert the new elment. Super easy and it looks good too!

 

[Dave Russell]

I have always worried, maybe unnecessarily, about a glass filter fracturing & spraying gas all over the engine compartment or exhaust. Glass doesn't react well to temperature changes & vibration. This is likely the reason that new cars come with metal filters. I will stick with metal cans.
D

 

[Keoke]

Well lets see, I use a russel filter with the cleanable sintered bronze filter unit on one of the cars and it is mounted in the engine compartment about 8" ahead of the carbs. On the other car I use a Volkswagon clear plastic throw away cheapie mounted at the same location, in either case my carbs stay clean,and monitoring trash pick up is easy.I always change the cheapie filter before a long trip so as to avoid the fuel starvation problem should the filter clog up.Carry a spare one also.--FWIW---Keoke