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Fuel Cell for 100/6 suggestions

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richberman

richberman

Jedi Warrior
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Does anyone have suggestions for what type of fuel cell to put in my 57 Longbridge 100/6. I'm planing the trunk layout and need to know if it need modification. Help with type and where to buy would be appreciated.
thanks,
rich
 
There are a few FuelSafe configurations that'll fit, but for anything *off the shelf* you'll be giving up some capacity; most of the ones that'll readily fit, are in the 10-12 gallon range.

If you're willing to give up trunk space, you can get a taller (but narrower) cell in the 15-20 gallon range.

Ideally, you'd get FuelSafe to make a container & bladder to your dimensions, and you can make the best use of space, and reach your design capacity.

Just personal, but I'd avoid the <span style="font-style: italic">hotrod</span> cross-linked polyethylene ones that're so readily available from Jeg's or Summit. They don't seem appropriate in a vintage car. Again, just my opinion.

But what am I talking about? Hopefully, Dougie & Richard can give you some up-to-date info (I researched this quite some years ago).
 
You didn't say why you wanted to put a fuel cell in your Healey? There are many shapes, sizes and styles of "fuel cells". What are your trying to achieve?
 
I'd like to make it SVRA compliant so I can race it at Limerock or Milleville, NJ if the bug itches. Otherwise, it's a safety issue while driving it on the street.
While I'm at the welding step, I'd like to plan any space issues if necessary.
thanks,
rich
 
A 12 gallon Fuel-Safe cell works well for my uh........."dual purpose"
'57 BN4 racer.

Dougie
 
Hi Rich, The problem with 'off the shelf' fuel cells is that you can't carry a spare tire because they are all too tall to put the spare on top.

I'm sorry I don't have pictures, but I had mine made by ATL to the same dimensions as the stock tank so I can carry a spare tire. Because it's very shallow, it required a collection can inside at the rear center of the cell. I have connected it to the stock filler tube so I don't have to open the trunk to fuel the car. I also got an optional sending unit in mine so the fuel gage works. Cost about $1700 in 2005.

One down side to consider is that the bladder & foam have limited life spans and need to be replaced every 5 years or so, so there is on-going cost to maintain.

Another problem is that the bladder & foam can be made to handle either gasoline or alchohol but not both (so I was told in 2005, may have changed since?). Since most pump gas now has alchohol, it can shorten the life of the bladder & foam.

Check out both Fuel Safe and ATL - when I had mine made they both bid almost exactly the same price, but I suggest you contact them both for guidance.

Lastly, if you havent raced before, beware it is very addictive.......

Dave
 
Dave,
From the looks of your picture you don't need space in your trunk for a spare tire :wink:

I've heard about the addiction...and the cost. Maybe I should just use the original tank and change it in the future if I get addicted.... Would i need to make any modifications to the metalwork of the trunk if I do the change later? I didn't want to do that after it's completed. Right now it's a bare chassis at the welder getting new rocker panels, gussets on the engine mounts and new doglegs. Any thoughts on Bill Bolton's scuttle shake reinforcement?

thanks for the info.
 
Rich,
You're right, when I go to the races, I don't carry a 'spare' because I figure I can limp to a tire store on a racing tire if I need to. However, I do drive it quite a bit (without the trailer) when not racing and need a spare then.

I doubt if you would need much in the way of modifications - look at the picture of Dougie's call, it is sitting on the trunk floor just like the stock tank. The only difference is the two hold down straps are in a different location so would need new holes drilled in the bulkhead and floor pan. Mine is exactly the same dimensions as the stock tank but the hold down straps are in a slightly different location, but again only needed new holes for the bolts.

Can't help with scuttle shake solutions, but at this stage it can't hurt to give it a try.

Dave
 
"Would i need to make any modifications to the metalwork of the trunk if I do the change later? I didn't want to do that after it's completed"
---------------------------

Yes--see the mouting recommendations on the ATL and FuelSafe websites. A fuel cell should be mounted to strong structural members that are welded to to the frame, etc, unlike stock Healey tanks that are strapped down with relatively light material. Also you must provide for a vent tube.

Installing a fuel will, like many other safety and performance mods necessary to racing, will lead you quickly down the slippery slope toward having a car that is no longer practical for street use. In this case you will be giving up a lot of what little trunk space exists in Healeys, plus you will probably no longer be able to get a spare into the boot. Unless you are certain that you will be going racing I would pass on the fuel cell for the present.
 
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