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Fuel/Carburetor Problem
- Thread starter healeygal
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dave Russell:
In what ways do you consider the BJ7 or BJ8 to be an upgrade?
D<hr></blockquote>
Well, that's according to Henri (post of 10/30). We, of course, know that the Hundreds are the only way to go!!
In what ways do you consider the BJ7 or BJ8 to be an upgrade?
D<hr></blockquote>
Well, that's according to Henri (post of 10/30). We, of course, know that the Hundreds are the only way to go!!
Healeygal,
After reading your first post of the poor running problem it sounded to me like it had nothing to do with the fuel system, though it is so easy to condemn those pesky SU's. I'm siding with DougR, is that Doug Reid? I think he is on the right track. However, since it ran well right up until the moment it did not. I would look at the condition and or connections to the points or if fitted with some other after market ignition device, the operation of that unit. Having said that and if failing to correct the problem, check to see that both carbs are working in proper unisyn. The symptom is similar to "only running on one carb"...ie. disconnected throttle shaft, a needle has fallen out of the piston or a couple other reasons which will be obvious if the carb is dis-assembled.
After reading your first post of the poor running problem it sounded to me like it had nothing to do with the fuel system, though it is so easy to condemn those pesky SU's. I'm siding with DougR, is that Doug Reid? I think he is on the right track. However, since it ran well right up until the moment it did not. I would look at the condition and or connections to the points or if fitted with some other after market ignition device, the operation of that unit. Having said that and if failing to correct the problem, check to see that both carbs are working in proper unisyn. The symptom is similar to "only running on one carb"...ie. disconnected throttle shaft, a needle has fallen out of the piston or a couple other reasons which will be obvious if the carb is dis-assembled.
Hi David,
The focus has definitely shifted from carbs to ignition/electrical/wiring. Missed a call to pick up the reconstituted plug wires from Doug today
, so will have to wait one more day to see if that cures the problem; and if that doesn't do it, I have tune up parts - plugs, points, condensor, etc., for installation over the weekend.
All this would be kind of interesting and fun if it weren't for the fact that I CAN'T RIDE MY CAR!!
The focus has definitely shifted from carbs to ignition/electrical/wiring. Missed a call to pick up the reconstituted plug wires from Doug today
All this would be kind of interesting and fun if it weren't for the fact that I CAN'T RIDE MY CAR!!
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John Loftus
Darth Vader
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I consider the upgrades on a BJ7 and BJ8 to be better performance, 4 speed (vs 3 speed BN1), front disk brakes, brake servo (option BJ7, standard BJ8), better long distance driving comfort from the wind-up and vent windows, better top, adjustable seat rails, along with many small mechanical improvements made by the factory over a 10 to 15 year period.
The "downgrades" are a more cluttered, add-on approach to the exterior and interior styling.
I was drawn to the BJ7 because it has the mechanical and comfort attributes of the BJ8 but the cleaner classic lines of the earlier roadster interior. But I do like them all and hope to have a 100 to cruise around in some day.
Cheers,
John
[ 11-02-2002: Message edited by: John Loftus ]</p>
The "downgrades" are a more cluttered, add-on approach to the exterior and interior styling.
I was drawn to the BJ7 because it has the mechanical and comfort attributes of the BJ8 but the cleaner classic lines of the earlier roadster interior. But I do like them all and hope to have a 100 to cruise around in some day.
Cheers,
John
[ 11-02-2002: Message edited by: John Loftus ]</p>
Okay guys, We have primary voltage to distributor, but intermitently lose spark. The engine will start and idle, and even rev (under no load) but under load, it misses and dies. This coma lasts maybe 10 minutes while I dash out to check symptoms. With no spark on last failure, I pulled distributor, so I can go through it with access to all my tools. Maybe a broken wire inside dist.? or.... Will keep posted.
(Healeygal's optimum driving weather fleeting)
(Healeygal's optimum driving weather fleeting)
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
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wiggle the little ground wire (usually uninsulated) that goes to the moveable points plate to the ditributor body....40+ years of flexing may have broken it (or made it intermitant)....and are the little insulating fiber washers in the points assembly put together correctly?...and are the distributor mainshaft bearings OK?
Also, check the *engine* for good grounding...occasionally a problem.
Also, could be condensor....even if it's a new one.
Last thought: hot wire the power side of the coil, to be sure it's not the key switch.
[ 11-03-2002: Message edited by: aeronca65t ]</p>
Also, check the *engine* for good grounding...occasionally a problem.
Also, could be condensor....even if it's a new one.
Last thought: hot wire the power side of the coil, to be sure it's not the key switch.
[ 11-03-2002: Message edited by: aeronca65t ]</p>
This happened to me a couple of years ago with my '59 BN6, Started great -- then when driving lost power and sputtered. My problem -- an old gunk-filled gas tank. It kept feeding sticky stuff to the carbs. I replaced it with a new aluminum tank and she ran like a dream.
This happened to me a couple of years ago with my '59 BN6, Started great -- then when driving lost power and sputtered. My problem -- an old gunk-filled gas tank. It kept feeding sticky stuff to the carbs. I replaced it with a new aluminum tank and she ran like a dream.
Hi guys, Distributor back in. Still has a miss. In neutral it has only a minor miss above 3000 rpm. The miss is more noticeable on decel from the 3000/3500 rpm range.
Just for the heck of it, I pulled off the air cleaners, and lifted the pistons. There seems to be a hang up at the damper/piston. When I last checked them the pistons lifted fine (dropped fine) but with the dampers out. I'm new to 100's but it seems to me the damper shafts are too short, and the damper tip hangs up on the step inside the piston. Is this situation "normal"? With the dampers in, the pistons only lift 1/4 ". Healeygal drove the car up her driveway a few times with the dampers removed, and we still had a miss. Didn't die though. I wasn't ready to test drive around the block yet. (It's more difficult to push than my bugeye). Also, how in heck do you time this thing? I don't see any marks!
Just for the heck of it, I pulled off the air cleaners, and lifted the pistons. There seems to be a hang up at the damper/piston. When I last checked them the pistons lifted fine (dropped fine) but with the dampers out. I'm new to 100's but it seems to me the damper shafts are too short, and the damper tip hangs up on the step inside the piston. Is this situation "normal"? With the dampers in, the pistons only lift 1/4 ". Healeygal drove the car up her driveway a few times with the dampers removed, and we still had a miss. Didn't die though. I wasn't ready to test drive around the block yet. (It's more difficult to push than my bugeye). Also, how in heck do you time this thing? I don't see any marks!
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Doug,
The dampers have a small amount of free play built into them. If they are working correctly, when you lift a piston, you should feel almost no resistance for an eighth to a quarter inch & then added resistance as you continue to raise the piston. This is the hydraulic damping resistance. The piston should drop back down with little resistance.
The timing marks are for top dead center & are an arrow embossed into the timing cover sheetmetal which when at TDC, lines up with a small round drilled dimple located near the outer rim of the pulley. It will be slightly in the belt groove & to the back of the belt. Kind of hard to see. Put a dab of contrasting paint on the dimple in the pulley & on the arrow point. Static timing should occur at around three eighths inch before TDC (before the mark on the pulley)
I just got to thinking - dangerous-- Some of the early fours did not have any timing marks, if so, you will need to find TDC & make your own marks.
D
[ 11-10-2002: Message edited by: Dave Russell ]</p>
The dampers have a small amount of free play built into them. If they are working correctly, when you lift a piston, you should feel almost no resistance for an eighth to a quarter inch & then added resistance as you continue to raise the piston. This is the hydraulic damping resistance. The piston should drop back down with little resistance.
The timing marks are for top dead center & are an arrow embossed into the timing cover sheetmetal which when at TDC, lines up with a small round drilled dimple located near the outer rim of the pulley. It will be slightly in the belt groove & to the back of the belt. Kind of hard to see. Put a dab of contrasting paint on the dimple in the pulley & on the arrow point. Static timing should occur at around three eighths inch before TDC (before the mark on the pulley)
I just got to thinking - dangerous-- Some of the early fours did not have any timing marks, if so, you will need to find TDC & make your own marks.
D
[ 11-10-2002: Message edited by: Dave Russell ]</p>
Henri
Jedi Knight
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Healygal wrote...Have a good vacation in Hawaii! By the way, since you only live a few miles away, I'd be happy to take care of your Healey for you while you're gone.
Gee...I wish I had thought of that...oh well maybe next time...however it might spoil you...after all...it's not like driving a 100 is it...
Gee...I wish I had thought of that...oh well maybe next time...however it might spoil you...after all...it's not like driving a 100 is it...
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Henri:
Healygal wrote...Have a good vacation in Hawaii! By the way, since you only live a few miles away, I'd be happy to take care of your Healey for you while you're gone.
Gee...I wish I had thought of that...oh well maybe next time...however it might spoil you...after all...it's not like driving a 100 is it...
<hr></blockquote>
For sure, Henri, especially one that isn't running!!
Healygal wrote...Have a good vacation in Hawaii! By the way, since you only live a few miles away, I'd be happy to take care of your Healey for you while you're gone.
Gee...I wish I had thought of that...oh well maybe next time...however it might spoil you...after all...it's not like driving a 100 is it...
For sure, Henri, especially one that isn't running!!
MYSTERY SOLVED!!!
Just got back from the mechanic a couple of hours ago, and IN MY HEALEY, no less! The initial suspect was thought to be the fuel pump, but after checking the wiring, etc., behind the driver's seat on back (two 6v battery system had been converted to one 12v and relocated from the compartment behind the driver to the trunk before I got the car), it turns out the problem was caused by the points ground wire to the battery master switch dangling about 1/16" away from bare metal - just the right movement would ground it, ground the points and kill the car. The switch had been installed by another mechanic a while back in such a way that the ground wire was being flexed a lot (something about attached to the brake handle?), plus I remember one of my cats (the psycho one) getting into the garage and heading straight for the back of the car to spend the night a few months ago.
Anyway, thanks to all the forum members who contributed ideas, suggestions and explanations re carburetors, fuel and electrical systems, etc. (I learned a lot), and to DougR for all his efforts, plus taking apart and cleaning up the overdrive solenoid - the overdrive is working again! So don't forget, Doug, you've got to take the car out for a test drive!
[ 11-26-2002: Message edited by: healeygal ]</p>
Just got back from the mechanic a couple of hours ago, and IN MY HEALEY, no less! The initial suspect was thought to be the fuel pump, but after checking the wiring, etc., behind the driver's seat on back (two 6v battery system had been converted to one 12v and relocated from the compartment behind the driver to the trunk before I got the car), it turns out the problem was caused by the points ground wire to the battery master switch dangling about 1/16" away from bare metal - just the right movement would ground it, ground the points and kill the car. The switch had been installed by another mechanic a while back in such a way that the ground wire was being flexed a lot (something about attached to the brake handle?), plus I remember one of my cats (the psycho one) getting into the garage and heading straight for the back of the car to spend the night a few months ago.
Anyway, thanks to all the forum members who contributed ideas, suggestions and explanations re carburetors, fuel and electrical systems, etc. (I learned a lot), and to DougR for all his efforts, plus taking apart and cleaning up the overdrive solenoid - the overdrive is working again! So don't forget, Doug, you've got to take the car out for a test drive!
[ 11-26-2002: Message edited by: healeygal ]</p>
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Sharon,
I should have thought of the grounding wire. I don't know how many people have been "caught" by this problem, but a lot, I think. On my own car, one of the first things that I did was to disconnect this wire where it makes connection to the points side of the coil. A little insurance.
A little later I took apart a battery master switch to see what was inside. Looks to me like the switch contacts & operating mechanism are very marginal in design & construction to be reliably carrying the whole battery current. I bypassed the switch to eliminate another possible problem. No modern cars except race cars have a battery master switch. Can't see much use for one on the Healey either.
D
I should have thought of the grounding wire. I don't know how many people have been "caught" by this problem, but a lot, I think. On my own car, one of the first things that I did was to disconnect this wire where it makes connection to the points side of the coil. A little insurance.
A little later I took apart a battery master switch to see what was inside. Looks to me like the switch contacts & operating mechanism are very marginal in design & construction to be reliably carrying the whole battery current. I bypassed the switch to eliminate another possible problem. No modern cars except race cars have a battery master switch. Can't see much use for one on the Healey either.
D
catfood
Jedi Knight
Offline
Dave,
The battery cut off switch was incorporated as an anti theft device. It is surprisingly easy to 'hot wire' a 100/4. My car has had the switch removed at point in its history but I rely on the three speed 'reversed' gearbox fooling any potential 'joyriders', that and a rather large aftermarket steering lock!
P.S. Congrats Sharon, hope your weather will allow you to start using her again!
[ 11-27-2002: Message edited by: catfood ]</p>
The battery cut off switch was incorporated as an anti theft device. It is surprisingly easy to 'hot wire' a 100/4. My car has had the switch removed at point in its history but I rely on the three speed 'reversed' gearbox fooling any potential 'joyriders', that and a rather large aftermarket steering lock!
P.S. Congrats Sharon, hope your weather will allow you to start using her again!
[ 11-27-2002: Message edited by: catfood ]</p>
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Sharon:
Thanks for sharing the "Final Answer" with us...it's always helpful to all of us when these mysteries are revealed (and we *all* learn something this way....I didn't know that these cars came with a "master-kill" switch).
My Spridget has an aftermarket "master-kill" mounted on the right-rear fender (for time trial racing). Here's my normal drill for driving the car: 1). Climb over the roll cage 2). tighten up the 5-pt harness. 3). realize the switch is "off" and climb back out of the car to turn it "on". (happens all the time).
Enjoy your car! (and think of the rest of us blanketed by snow this time of year!)
Thanks for sharing the "Final Answer" with us...it's always helpful to all of us when these mysteries are revealed (and we *all* learn something this way....I didn't know that these cars came with a "master-kill" switch).
My Spridget has an aftermarket "master-kill" mounted on the right-rear fender (for time trial racing). Here's my normal drill for driving the car: 1). Climb over the roll cage 2). tighten up the 5-pt harness. 3). realize the switch is "off" and climb back out of the car to turn it "on". (happens all the time).
Enjoy your car! (and think of the rest of us blanketed by snow this time of year!)
Hi Dave, Steve and Nial,
All the time the car was off the road, didn't stop to think of the master switch once. It's on a shelf way in the back of the trunk, covered by a piece of the new trunk liner kit that I haven't glued down yet - shows you how much use it gets...
Thanks for your good wishes about driving the car. I know for some, the weather has gone into winter, and the cars are put away. After a couple of days of rain, it's been in the 70's here (although very windy the last week), and now through spring are my favorite time of year to drive the car. It's in the summertime, with the prospect of hot weather and the cockpit heat coming off the engine/transmission, that the car sits in the garage a lot more.
And gee, Nial, you're learning more and more about Healeys all the time!
[ 11-27-2002: Message edited by: healeygal ]</p>
All the time the car was off the road, didn't stop to think of the master switch once. It's on a shelf way in the back of the trunk, covered by a piece of the new trunk liner kit that I haven't glued down yet - shows you how much use it gets...
Thanks for your good wishes about driving the car. I know for some, the weather has gone into winter, and the cars are put away. After a couple of days of rain, it's been in the 70's here (although very windy the last week), and now through spring are my favorite time of year to drive the car. It's in the summertime, with the prospect of hot weather and the cockpit heat coming off the engine/transmission, that the car sits in the garage a lot more.
And gee, Nial, you're learning more and more about Healeys all the time!
[ 11-27-2002: Message edited by: healeygal ]</p>
Speaking of the battery cut-off switch, I learned a little trick with the wire.
To make it look original(for those who care)just keep the black and white wire in it's insulation and clamp it down in the cut-off switch.
That way the wire appears to be connected but can't make a contact.This at least gives an original appearance and immobilizes the wire.....
To make it look original(for those who care)just keep the black and white wire in it's insulation and clamp it down in the cut-off switch.
That way the wire appears to be connected but can't make a contact.This at least gives an original appearance and immobilizes the wire.....