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froze brake drum?
- Thread starter mtlman8
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after removing the tapered screw and loosening the adjustment screw.
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First, I'd ensure that there's nothing causing the handbrake lever to be hanging up or anything that might have kept the wheel cylinder from sliding as necessary. You could crack open the bleeder to relieve pressure, just in case that might have something to do with the problem. And you could back off the adjuster as much as possible. If all that fails, I'd try working my way around the outside edge of the drum with a hammer, alternating with trying to turn the drum/hub.
With luck, it'll all come apart again, and you can more thoroughly check things out when it does.
With luck, it'll all come apart again, and you can more thoroughly check things out when it does.
D
Deleted member 8987
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Does it wobble at all, or stuck solid?
BFH is the answer, except on other cars, we used a BFBP, using the ball end of the ball-peen hammer to hit once between each wheel stud location.
Hit it with ZEP45 or PBBlaster first to allow it to soak in around the edges a bit.
Always worked for me.
BFH is the answer, except on other cars, we used a BFBP, using the ball end of the ball-peen hammer to hit once between each wheel stud location.
Hit it with ZEP45 or PBBlaster first to allow it to soak in around the edges a bit.
Always worked for me.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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Congrats on the first drive!
I just did the shoes on the TR3A (10") using the Classic Gold from Moss (was quite pleased that 10" shoes are again available). The shoes were too thick for my drums, could not adjust them in far enough to clear (or even get the drum on w/o force).
In the end I had to take a little off each shoe with a belt sander. Hated to do it but there you are. Also tapered the leading edge a bit.
Investigating in the archives it seems this is a common problem -- they make the replacement shoes just a bit thicker than original on the assumption your drums have been turned a couple of times.
I mention this in case it is your problem.
I just did the shoes on the TR3A (10") using the Classic Gold from Moss (was quite pleased that 10" shoes are again available). The shoes were too thick for my drums, could not adjust them in far enough to clear (or even get the drum on w/o force).
In the end I had to take a little off each shoe with a belt sander. Hated to do it but there you are. Also tapered the leading edge a bit.
Investigating in the archives it seems this is a common problem -- they make the replacement shoes just a bit thicker than original on the assumption your drums have been turned a couple of times.
I mention this in case it is your problem.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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"Back when" it was actually common to grind a bit off of new linings. This was called "arcing" them, and there was a special tool that moved the shoe in an arc as it was ground. The result was supposed to be a friction surface that exactly matched the inside of the drum.
I only had it done once (on a car with front drums) but it sure made a big difference in how well the brakes worked!
I only had it done once (on a car with front drums) but it sure made a big difference in how well the brakes worked!
TR3TR6
Jedi Warrior
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I took my 10" shoes to a brake shop and they bonded on new linings. They worked perfect. It cost me $ 35.- 40.00 dollars. They've been in business for over 50 years, that was several years ago, there prices may have gone up some. They are located in Wichita, KS. If anybody wants to contact them, I can give you a telephone No..