Front wheel bearings

[Morris]

The wheel bearings I bought from one of the big vendors a few years ago have already gone bad. I am getting a lot of wheel wobble, and I am rather certain it is the bearings. The entire front end has been rebuilt including new a-arms. The wobbling the wheel produces no movement in any of the other suspension components.

In defense of the bearings I installed: I did install them backwards and drive around for a few miles before realizing my mistake.

That said, I would like for this to be the last time I install front bearings on this car.

I have inquired with Winner's Circle on their tapered bearing kit. If I can afford that, that is what I will get.

But if that is too expensive, I am considering this kit:

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/index.php/wheel-bearing-kit-front-midget-58-79.html

Does anyone have any experience with this kit? I have had real good luck with the quality of parts from BP Northwest so far. But I am not seeing anything that makes me think this kit is any different than what the big vendors are selling.

 

[Gerard]

I installed a bunch of these, but they haven't been in service long enough to give you real world results. I'm told they are reliable though. They don't give the impression as being as good as the R&M ones you'd find in the original hubs, but that's just an impression.

What I can tell you is that in looking for OEM style replacements from bearing houses that carry major manufacturers like SKF, is that they are a LOT more expensive. I think when I checked a few months ago, they ran about $70... and that might have been per side (I can't remember now).

What you should know about the tapered bearings is that you will either need to discard or otherwise machine the spacers that are normally used on the axle. There is a LOT of controversy about doing this as that spacer is also there to strengthen the axle. The math and physics inclined folks will jump in and explain why that is, but I'm sure a Google search will turn up a LOT too.

Also, not all the tapered bearing fit properly in that the tend to measure wider in the hub and sometime not leave enough threads/access to the cotter pin holes. YM<span style="text-decoration: underline">W</span>V

 

[Morris]

Well, Winner's Circle got back to me. Their kit is $167. So I will definitely go with the BPNorthwest bearings.

 

[Guest]

Trim your spacers and that'll tighten up the onles you have. Go just a few .001 at a time. I have one I need to do.

 

[nomad]

Well I was thinking of putting in a query along this line as well. My midget that went to Midget 50 has already got slop in the wheel bearings and they were NOS. I replaced a county brand bearing that was almost as loose as the worn bearings in the original hubs with the NOS. I'm begining to think the thrust ball bearings were always substandard. Any one with really long term familiarity with these?

Kurt.

 

[Gerard]

I'm begining to think the thrust ball bearings were always substandard. Any one with really long term familiarity with these?

Kurt.

I can't say I agree. I've pulled out a lot of well used ones that were still pretty good. As I mentioned, there are some really good major brand ones (if price is any indication) as well as some sealed bearing versions. They are very pricey though. I think if you have a car that gets driven a lot, or driven hard, it may be worth it.

Some of the issue could be related lack of maintenance too or improper installation too. I've removed many that were installed way too tight or too loose. I think if they were checked occasionally and tensioned properly, they might last longer.

 

[markberry]

Hi Morris,
Just to add my two cents, i installed the kit that Speedwell sells (tapered Timken bearings and an assortment of shims) and have had good luck. I probably put 15000 miles on them in a couple of years before taking the car apart five years ago. They do stick on the axle taper at the base of the axle though, which I plan to resolve with a little grinding of the inner races before I put them back on.
Best of luck
Mark

 

[aeronca65t]

I'm not crazy about losing the spacer, which, as mentioned above, can stiffen the front axle. I believe it's essentially impossible to get the spacer to be useful with roller bearing no matter how carefully you grind it or add shims.

One of the things I've noticed is that some folks don't tighten the front bearing up to the correct torque with the stock bearings (approx 40 ft lbs). I have found many there were set up "one hole loose" (on the cotter pin) like on conventional American rwd cars.

I tend to try to find good used (British) bearings but I have also had decent service from the stock Moss bearings. This is in my race car which generally gets new wheel bearings every two or three years (approx 50 to 75 hours of race usage).

 

[PAUL161]

I'm not crazy about losing the spacer, which, as mentioned above, can stiffen the front axle. <span style="color: #FF0000">I believe it's essentially impossible to get the spacer to be useful with roller bearing no matter how carefully you grind it or add shims.
</span>
One of the things I've noticed is that some folks don't tighten the front bearing up to the correct torque with the stock bearings (approx 40 ft lbs). I have found many there were set up "one hole loose" (on the cotter pin) like on conventional American rwd cars.

I tend to try to find good used (British) bearings but I have also had decent service from the stock Moss bearings. This is in my race car which generally gets new wheel bearings every two or three years (approx 50 to 75 hours of race usage).

X-2 You know, I've been around cars, race cars, trucks, just about anything on wheels all my life, even worked in the heavy construction equipment field for forty years, half of that as a general superintendent, point being, I've seen a lot in my time, which leads to the British method of front spindle assembly. It is common knowledge that any time you increase the diameter of an object, ie spindle, it increases the strength, but, unless your going to enter an MGB in the Baha in Mexico and jumping it 10 feet in the air, you can not convince me that the front spindles on those cars aren't plenty strong enough for everyday street driving. Ball bearings have a history of prematurely coming loose and falling apart when used in drive wheel assemblies, reason for the tapered bearing invention. The British idea of using a spacer and shims was a good idea when using the ball bearing. It was to keep the balls in the center of the race and eliminating all side pressure, as none should be applied to a ball bearing, they are designed to "float" in the race. If you have ball bearings, use the spacers and shims to factory specs. But if you install a pair of tapered Timkin bearings in there then there is no need for the spacers and shims and that front axle is plenty strong enough. JMHO. PJ

 

[nomad]

I'm begining to think the thrust ball bearings were always substandard. Any one with really long term familiarity with these?

Kurt.

I can't say I agree. I've pulled out a lot of well used ones that were still pretty good. As I mentioned, there are some really good major brand ones (if price is any indication) as well as some sealed bearing versions. They are very pricey though. I think if you have a car that gets driven a lot, or driven hard, it may be worth it.

Some of the issue could be related lack of maintenance too or improper installation too. I've removed many that were installed way too tight or too loose. I think if they were checked occasionally and tensioned properly, they might last longer.

Gerard, I was not aware that there is a procedure for installing the ball bearings other than just fitting the distance tube and tightening the axle nut up to a reasonable torque against the bearing. I have serviced MGB front bearings with a dial indicator and correct shim pac so am aware of the british system for them.
I will admit to driving pretty hard and lots of 80mph plus speed.

Kurt.