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Front wheel bearings

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prb51

prb51

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Gents,
Want to do my TR3's front wheel bearings with Timkin's. Does anyone have the bearing #'s numbers for the inner/outer.
I know TRF sells timkins but they only sell the 'kit' and I don't need a new nut/cap etc.
The other vendors sell Japanese made bearings, any experience, just as good? I've always had good luck w/Timkins.
 
I really, really hate to bust your bubble, but your beloved Timken bearings are now made in China. I, too, have always trusted Timken, and last year when trying to source a new set for my TR6 from TRF, they told me they were no longer available. Then, all the sudden in 2006 they now stock them. I became suspicious and started Googling the company. Indeed they went overseas.
Frankly, if I had some bearings that were indeed made in Japan (which my previous bearings were), I wouldn't hesitate to use them. But any other Asian country, I would have to think twice, even with Timken.
 
Is there no relief? My beloved parts are souced out again! I agree on the Japanese made items and will source those. Funny that the 'sourced' Timkins are so expensive, where is the out sourcing economy?
 
every thing will be made in china, we wont have jobs so we wont need anything from china, anyone see the big pic, i guess all the ceo think they will have their money and wont have to worry
 
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where is the out sourcing economy?

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In the pockets of the stockholders and corporate upper echelon types with sales of 5.2 billion in 2005.

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I have a set at home I'll pull the numbers off of for you when I get home tonight.
 
Probably will Peter. You are obviously an HVDA fan, did you put a TR4A flywheel on the 3 or drill the original?
On a dailey basis I change my mind from HVDA to NdL OD.
 
I had a spare TR4A flywheel so I used that on the 3A. Also lets me use a later starter (instead of the bullnose original).

I bought the first HVDA kit from Herman a few years ago for the 4A. It's still not installed on my project. Then I found a failed restoration that I bought the HDVA kit for my 3A, paid $800! The latest kits have a slightly improved bellhousing design where the hydraulic lines route to the t/o bearing and use an improved (and very expensive) McLeod hydraulic bearing. Both of my kits use the new t/o with the earlier bellhousing. Herman is always open to improvements and his support is second to none. For daily driving, unless you do hill climbs alot, I would pick the HVDA. I cruise around in 4th @3000 forgetting about 5th. Then when I shift into 5th the revs drop significantly. Fun on the highways and it's easy to hit 80+ if you don't watch it.
 
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Does this help?

Seal (Inner) 480991
Cone (Inner) 07100S
Cup (Inner) 07210X
Cone (Outer) 03062
Cup (Outer) 03162

From the Timken web site

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Andy,

Just confirming that those numbers match exactly to what I have on the timken box in the basement. Another great link! Now if only Timken would list the Kohler, B&S engine, and Toro commercial mfg. propriatory bearing numbers it would make my work life a little easier.

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prb51
it just means that the supplier can make a bigger profit. I purchased some nobs (heater,fan,choke etc) and they looked great. They lasted about a week and when I checked one, I noticed that they were made in Korea, and they wern't cheap!
Regards
Craig
 
Thanks all.
Peter, I do a lot of highway driving as I live in the country. Hitting 80 (I do that often) is common in Az as you must do 70/75 just to keep up with the traffic flow on the interstate. I do need/would like something to lower the rpm although my 3 handles it without a problem. I can spend an hour or two at 4k just going to Phoenix- 3.2k would be a lot easier on the car and give me some peace of mind. I need to source a TR4a flywheel, then a new starter, then.....always seems to lead to numerous changes doesn't it? Oh, yea, and do that bearing job and ....
 
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