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Front wheel bearings [again]

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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I know this subject has been beat to death, but I have a question. While R&R my front suspension I removed the hubs along with everything else and noticed I have the RHP bearings with the correct radius in the race, but there is a noticeable gap between the bearing and the spindle face. This gap is large enough to put a small flat bladed screwdriver in. The bearings are in great shape, but I'm concerned about the gap. Thoughts?
Thanks, Rut
 
If you are talking about a gap between the inner bearing inner race and the shoulder on the axle that the seal runs on I would say you definetly have problem that needs to be investigated. I would be afraid the inner race will turn on the axle and that the axle will be overly stressed in the vicinity of the bearing. The axle flange, bearing race's and distance tube all assembled make up an assembly that is far stronger than just the axle itself. Hope I'm making sense on this.

Kurt.
 
Kurt,
Yes, that is where the gap is. The axle assembly is original, the bearing is the original style RHP 34LJT25 with the radius on the inner race. When I removed the bearing from the spindle it was tight, but not stuck and didn't require much force. The seal showed signs of a small leak so it will be replaced on the rebuild. This particular car has roughly 50k miles on it and it's my '72 parts car, front end is in pretty good shape and well greased. I was not expecting to see such a large gap.
Thanks, Rut
 
Sounds like it has to be a problem with the radius on the axle and the bearing. If everything appears OK, I think I would try to find a shim to take up the space. MGB's used different shims to set up there axle's. I wonder if they would work.

Kurt.
 
My experience with the stub axles is that the size of the filet radius varies tremendously. I've seen very pronounced radius' and I've seen virtually no radius.

Use some machinist blue layout fluid to mark the stub axle. Put everything together, tighten it down and remove. See where the bearing hits the radius or if it makes it to the flat face.

I use the alternate TAA30205 tapered rollers (versus the regular 30205) on the race setup just to get around the unpredictably larger radius'. The TAA type is a gearbox bearing from a Ford/Mazda that works.

Mike Miller
 
Rut,
This is a very complex subject because the different bearings that are being used and how they change the seal contact position, rotor position, the space behind the bearing like you have discovered and other things.

There is only one ball bearing made that fits correctly and recently someone posted the number of a Timken roller bearing that would fit. Unfortunately the Timken bearing has been discontinued. But you might try Rock Auto and see if they have any left.

This explains the problems and some possible solutions.
https://smithtr6.com/bearings.htm
 
Thanks all,
What's puzzeling to me is that I have the proper bearing and I really don't want to get into the taper bearing set up. I've got several axles and I think I'll swap things around to see if I get a good fit with what I've got. Tom, I used your info to help me figure out what I'm doing and that's when I figured out that gap should not be there. I think I'll reassemble everything and measure the gap to see if a shim could possibly work. I don't know the history of this parts car, but with the exception of the bushings and fulcrum pin fit it was in good shape.
Thanks, Rut
 
I fit everything together and found that the gap was approx .011" with the bearing pushed hard against the shoulder, not torqued. I tried the same bearing on 2 other axles and it fit snug against the shoulder with no gap. There were a few small burrs, but nothing significant and I dressed them with a file. This axle assembly is in overall better shape and I would like to use it. Can I dress it further (radius does not blend smoothly with the axle) or take it to a machine shop and have it turned? It won't take much to get it there. Thoughts?
Thanks, Rut
 
Donn,
Thanks, I have some very small gunsmith files and stones that should work well. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't weakening the stub axle by reducing the radius.
Thanks, Rut
 
Speedwell Engineering has a Tapered front wheel bearing conversion. Not sure about it, but it cost $195.00. Anyone know if it's worth trying. I can handle the cost if I get a good bearing setup that will last.
Rik
 
Thanks all,
I worked on the stub axle radius and reduced it enough for the bearing to fit correctly. My next effort would have been to make a shim to fill the .011" space.
Rut
 
Rik said:
Speedwell Engineering has a Tapered front wheel bearing conversion. Not sure about it, but it cost $195.00. Anyone know if it's worth trying. I can handle the cost if I get a good bearing setup that will last.
Rik
Click to expand...

Yeah I heard of this as well and was wondering the same thing.
 
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