TR2/3/3A Front wheel bearing adjust and end float??

[karls59tr]

Did someone post about double checking the front wheel bearing end float using a dial gauge and what was the spec?

Thanks Karl

 

[TomMull]

There was a post (#2) by our late friend Randall on doing a TR4. https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...ring-adjustment&highlight=wheel+bearing+float

I think the TR2,3 service manual procedure is perfectly adequate or at least tried and true. Tighten and back off a bit essentially. Better of course to use the numbers in the book which some of us rarely do.
Tom

 

[CJD]

Yep, the service manual tells you to torque the bearing to 10 ftlbs...which is WAY overtight for a taper bearing...and then back off by 1 to 1-1/2 flat. The reason is that the 10ftlbs will fully compress the thick felt seal and fully seat the bearings. One addition I recommend is to spin the hub while torquing, just to make sure it fully seats without catching on any burrs or such. I do not remember ever seeing actual play numbers, but most front wheel bearings run in the range of .003 to .008". Unfortunately, the nature of the felt seal makes measuring the bearing play impossible unless you set it without the seal in place. You would the have to mark the nut and be absolutely sure to set it back to the exact same place after you re-install the seal. I don't know how you would accurately count the number of turns from when the nut starts to engage, but I guess you could figure it out somehow.

 

[titanic]

I believe the factory spec. is .003"-.005" and .005" seems too loose to me.
Berry

 

[CJD]

Funny story...when I purchased my first TR3A, it drove well, although a bit hard to steer. When I took apart the front left wheel I found the completely wrong outer bearing had been used. It was about 1/8" smaller than it should have been, so the free play was at least 1/8"! The gentleman had owned and driven it for 8 years and told me he had never touched anything but the carbs and battery. It's amazing what these cars will tolerate!

 

[steveg]

I drove my Healey for several years, including some multi-hundred mile trips, before I discovered the rubber was completely gone from my upper trunnions - 1/2" bolt in a 1" hole. I'd go through a very slight shimmy at 55 but smooth at 70+.

 

[sp53]

I believe the dial indicator might show a number of run outs like the wheel or the axle. When I set the wheel bearing, I still grab the wheel at 12:00 and 6:00 and wiggle up and down, and if I feel play I tighten it up just a fuss until the play is gone or very very minimal, but not tight; the force be with me, it is in the feel.

 

[Madflyer]

When repacking my fronts wheels on my TR 6 I tighten to set bearing I would only guess 10 # and back to hole for cotter pin a flat may be be to much but seating and rotation wheel is best practice. Madflyer

 

[steveg]

When repacking my fronts wheels on my TR 6 I tighten to set bearing I would only guess 10 # and back to hole for cotter pin a flat may be be to much but seating and rotation wheel is best practice. Madflyer

Guessing the Triumph is like the Healey in that there are two cotter holes at 90 degrees, so going back to the nearest of the two holes is 1/2 a flat.

 

[Madflyer]

I think only one hole but still 1/2 flat still turns freely and no side to side movement. Madflyer

 

[DavidApp]

If you check the photos in the Bearing Failure thread you can see 2 holes for the cotter pin/Split pin.

David