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Front sway bar mounting?

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Chet Zerlin

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The areas of my frame where I would assume the two bolts for the front sway bars mount only have one bolt on each side showing and no hole for a second bolt.(see attached picture of driver's side - the passenger side is identical).

Has anyone ever seen this before? Suggestions on what best to do to be able to install a front sway bar?

Thanks!
Chet
IMG_0528.jpg
 
There are supposed to be welded captive nuts on the inside and the material is too thin to drill & tap and expect any real strength.
Hate to say this but I think you have no choice but to cut the plates off and weld new ones on. ​
Moss lists them for $15.99ea and British Car Specialists's Kilmartin list shows them too (I only have a 2013 price sheet at $13.59 each). I don't know who's parts Moss has but I have been real happy with the Kilmartin stuff I've used.
So, good news is it's not expensive parts, bad news is it's a PITA to do.

Alternately, if you have fab capabilities, make your own plates. I made mine using 3/16" plate (stock is same as frame at about 1/8" thick) for a stronger mount because I run a 7/8" sway bar.

Dave
 
This might be a little overkill, but once and done, right!

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I'm reasonably confident that the bolts haven't pulled out, nor the pads caved in or dented during the past nine (<9) years...
 
Basically it comes down to how much time and money do you want to spend and if your doing this yourself or paying to have it done . You can go real cheap and just drill and add sheet metal bolts or drill and install rivnuts where you need them , cut out metal and weld in something etc etc etc .
Your wallet your decision.
Randys solution to me is overkill as adding what looks like 3/8” plate to 1/8” frame rails is kinda pointless as its like armour plating a coke can lid and expecting it will add strength. The mounting point for the sway bar will be around till time forgot but the frame rails will be long since gone .
JMHO .
 
I had to get new plates welded in on my 100 years ago, didn't measure but I seem to recall the replacement pieces being slightly thicker than the surrounding frame. The first couple welders I contacted didn't want to do it (liability) found a small shop that normally did other types of work run by an older guy who I think got a kick out of working on the old Healey, and charged a very reasonable price for the work.

I don't think I would try attaching the sway bar mounts without something substantial like a welded on nut to keep things in place.
 
Healey Nut said:
Basically it comes down to how much time and money do you want to spend and if your doing this yourself or paying to have it done . You can go real cheap and just drill and add sheet metal bolts or drill and install rivnuts where you need them , cut out metal and weld in something etc etc etc .
Your wallet your decision.
Randys solution to me is overkill as adding what looks like 3/8” plate to 1/8” frame rails is kinda pointless as its like armour plating a coke can lid and expecting it will add strength. The mounting point for the sway bar will be around till time forgot but the frame rails will be long since gone .
JMHO .
Click to expand...
Hardly! I wanted something thick enough to tap, allowing a minimum of five (>5) threads of engagement.

Sure, I could've used 10 gauge (.120") I have a ton of it around__well, at least 1/4-ton (500 Lbs!)__and welded a couple of nuts to the backside, but I prefer to NOT duplicate a known engineering failure.

Coincidentally, it was a career automotive machinist (FOMOCO) that I did the work for, and he was quite pleased at the concept and result.
 
Thanks everyone (as always) for your responses and excellent advice. Always very appreciated!

John you raise a very good question as to whether there is some filler covering the other holes - I'll certainly pursue that option first! Not for the last time I'm wondering what "activities" my Healey went thorough before I got her. Why would both rear locating mounting points be no longer there (or covered) but both front ones be ok? Unfortunately the PO who had the car longest is no longer around to ask....

Did all 100-6's come with front sway bars installed or where they just produced with the mounting points available and left up to the owners to install if they wanted?

Randy - great to see you back on the forum!

Thanks!
Chet
 
Wonder what caused the huge dent (top photo) near the rear bumper bolt tube? Someone let the suspension drop hard?

Top photo shows hideous external rust, but what's visible on inside looks pretty good. That's encouraging.
 
Chet Zerlin said:
....

Did all 100-6's come with front sway bars installed or where they just produced with the mounting points available and left up to the owners to install if they wanted?
....
Chet
Click to expand...
The all came with anti-sway bars standard. The mounds often die because of slamming into curbs when parking. The factory rally cars had guards for the mounts.
 
That makes perfect sense John and I think explains why my front bolts are still there while the rear bolts are not since I assume that the rears would take the full force of that impact. Matches what is shown on Randy's too.
 
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