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Front suspension project

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EMGEBE

EMGEBE

Jedi Hopeful
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After a bit more research via the net and having a look at a few different sites, i got under the car and took a few more pics.

Few questions, whats a good way to clean up all the grime and gunk on the suspension parts? -so i can actually undo nuts :p

Is it ok to clean it up with a high pressure water gun?

Magnette IFS
Used this for comparison, but i noticed on my car i dont have a rubber buffer on the spring plate?
- could that just be another reason why im getting THUD THUD THUD on the roads?

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hehe, the rocky loves what he's liking :p

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Cheers Jarrod /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Blast away!!!! The only thing you can harm is the rubber parts, and then only if they need replacing anyway.. Since you are going to be working down there, and replacing all the worn parts, I'd soak it in engine cleaner, buy a case of brake cleaner, and take a good shot at it with a pressure washer. Just remember long sleeves and safety goggles.

Good luck.
 
hey there...Just wanted to add a little more thought to your front end rebuild here. I looked at the pictures you posted...just by looking I can tell your shocks are in very rough shape...and being those were important...all that wear was shared between the swivel axles and into your steering rack. I no doubt expect your tie rod ends are shot along with perhaps the pinion and steering rack bushing.If the damage is severe your inner tie rods are probably wore as well and to re-do your steering rack with those still left in is nearly a wasted effort. I will simply say this and I know most will agree...you have to do this job right...every piece of rubber including the cross member mounting pads...basically the only thing you will have left to use will be the spring pans and perhaps the springs too. It is a spendy fix I know...just did it myself. It was worth every penny...my god the thing drives so smooth and quiet now. You can save a few bucks buying nuts and bolts at the hardware store...but those fulcrum/trunion pins you will need to replace and they are special along with many others.(Save and clean the ones you know you need in other words.) As long as you are doing the front rubber and bush's ...consider the rear end too. I did all mine in 4 weekends at a comfortable pace. For any aid on cutting thru the grease...don't worry so much about cleaning the parts because you need to replace them anyway. Castrol makes a great cleaner and you can find that at NAPA or other auto parts stores....and a few good wire brush's and some scrubbing. The A arms might be usable but you can just replace them too...along with the links...they are affordable actually. I did a full on replacement of everything and I think I spent around $900 or so. As I said...it was worth my time and money. If your shocks aint broke then new valves and a good cleaning and gaskets will fix that right up. I wish you well and if you would like I can share some names of people I used in england to get those swivels and state side business as well. I wish you well...and if you can't get the nut off...cut the damm thing off! "words of wisdom"
my best to you and all loved ones.
 
I just took another look...lordy...you have a project instore for you. your brakes/rotors look a little funky too...grease caps are worn...my guess is...well...you need to replace the wheel bearings/ seals if you replace the swivels anyway. Any fluid in that steering rack?...or is your steering tight like an old truck that has been sitting in the field for 5 years growing blackberries? Don't forget to check your brake lines for kinks and flat spots. Check your callipars and pistons and rebuild them if you question anything. 30 plus year old mgb's wear out...it's a dang shame huh? As I said in the previous post... it will be worth every penny you spend. I am new to this forum but been restoring a bgt over the last 5 years or so. I do it because I enjoy it...fully knowing I shall reap little to no financial reward in the future.
 
Jerrod,

I was thinking that it didn't look too bad...someone has done some work down there is the past 35 years! I would start out with a coffee can full of kerosene and a paint brush. Let it soak overnight with newspaper underneath to catch the drippings to be burned later. Then a broadknife and some screwdrivers will remove the gunk in chunks...at least enough to see what you are doing and what really needs replaced.

I will bet that most of the noise will be halted with the replacement of the rubber parts (including the sway bar mount bushing...a likely suspect in my book from the appearance) and a good greasing. Once you have the parts out and on the bench, the worn parts will be come very evident.

good luck!

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Hey guys.
Thanks for the advice Richard, Bruce and AlamedaMGB.
Much appreciated...

Geez im learning a ton about cars through my B /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Gave the B a good soaking today, didnt use any engine cleaners or other chemicals, just good ol water.

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Some people werent too happy with me doing work on the road, but they can get stuffed ey! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

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The presure of the karcher wasnt too flash, prob not enough to clean it up really well.
I think i might take your advice bruce and give it a go over with kerosene, but i'll do that when i get all the parts in.

BTW, another few questions...

Are both the lower suspension arms symetrical?
Are they both esentially the exact same mould, just flipped around the other way for each side?

What do people recon of Polyurethane suspension bushings?
Moss sell them... Polyurethane bushings
Anyone using them currently?

Cheers Jarrod
 
Looking good..you're getting there. The arms are different in that the hole for the sway bars must be in the front of the arm. As far as the the bushings go, I know some have liked the polyurethane bushings,which give a firmer ride, but with the rough road surfaces, I prefered to stick with the rubber for a less jarring ride....what can I say, I am getting old, I suppose /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Another observation...you will need to get it higher to get the arm clearance to get the spring out. And PLEASE get a jack stand under there...it is much safer. And you will need the jack to lower the spring pan anyhow.

I hope that is not a busy street, you will be laying there for a while on this project...at least you should park on the right side /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Thanks Bruce, have some jack stands lying around somewhere... will do mate /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Keep in touch, will letcha know when i get all the bits n'pieces...

Also, what kind of time frame should i set aside for this task?
- lets say hypothetically all the major components need to be rebushed new seals.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Oh my god! You dog doesn't have a head!!! How does he eat?!?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

LMAO...I thought the same thing!

Don't ask me about time when working on a car...I tend to take my time and do a little here and there. I think I spent about 2 months doing my front end last winter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif But then I ordered shocks and springs while waiting for weather warm enough to paint everything with POR15.

Bruce
 
Poly bushings are the best way to go if you plan on keeping your car for awhile, rubber is fine but wear out rather quickly. Poly bushings do have a firmer ride, but the responce is better,less give.
 
the lower a-arms/wishbones are in pairs (front and rear). The front is interchangeable between the left and right, and the rear is interchangeable between left and right. The difference between the front and rear wishbone is the front bone has a mount point for your anti-sway/anti-roll bar.

Urethane bushings are great from what I hear, especially if your looking for more aggresive handling from your car, and they last for a really long time to boot! I guess if you want a softer ride then go with the rubber.
 
I would go for the MGB V8 lower bushes.
They last longer and don't seem to hurt the ride at all.
All the best, Ross.
 
I nearly feel I put foot firmly in mouth with a post recently here. I suggested perhaps more than what you were wanting to hear and or what your budget would be. I do agree with the replacement of the front rubber to quiet things down some. The sway bar mounts lobe out and they do move as you travel rough roads. The wishbone arms and piviots wear in that same un-circular direction as well...so replacing the bush's will be of a great advantage. Such a job to get to that but it will quiet things down. I wanted to ask you a very specific question, that being...if you have your front wheels on the ground and you place your hands on the top front of either tire ...then push back and forth...do you hear that clunk or see excessive movement? I am curious as to what you do find...feel and hear. I hope others following this post understand why I am asking this question. I saw an mg along the road one day...you can tell something gave way. Made me think a little...and a total restoration/rebuild on the front and rear was the only answer for me.
You have a nice driver there...and I wish you well.
 
One word of caution about the V-8 bushing...they are lined with a steel tube and your bolts have to be in perfect condition to use them. Mine are slighlty pitted and I could not get them to seat firmly, so I went back to rubber originals /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

So, if anyone want a set of v-8 bushings cheap, let me know! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
What is the difficult in changing the bushings? Can a novice do this and if so, how much time should it take? Afternoon, weekend, the entire winter.... Any hints or tips???

Thanks
 
well, 87MGB... I don't think it's ~too~ difficult. I consider myself a novice, and from looking under the car it's 98% nuts and bolts... the other 2% go towards the springs... The springs in them selves need special consideration and preperation prior to loosening any bolts or you could end up with a mess... or even injury on your hands. The use of a floor jack to let the spring out can take care of that though...

From my point of view, it's no more difficult than anything else. With the right amount of attention to detail, and an equal amount of attention to you and your helper's safety it should be do able in a weekend or less. I think the only part that has me apprehensive about being able to do it is the upper tunion bushes... which are supposed to need reaming...
 
Did my rears in a lazy weekend. The fronts are only tricky because of the springs. I haven't done this myself yet but probably will this winter.
 
A full weekend for both if you've done it before. If you’ve never done it before you might plan on two weekends. When dealing with 25 or 35 year old vehicles you can never be sure you won’t run across one or two unexpected delays or SANAFU’s.

Like Steve said the rear end is pretty easy as long at the front eye bushings aren’t stuck or seized up. Now I never had that problem but have heard that it can requiring cutting or a torch to get it apart. My only advice here is if you are going to replace the bushings in the rear – is that you spend the extra few bucks and replace your old shackles & mounting hardware.

The front is a bit more work and you do need to be careful. I like to use two floor jacks and a set of Jack stands and I have done the whole front end by myself. The hardest part is putting it back together. Rubber bushings is easier than polyurethane and to get the bolts on the upper part of the A-arms at the Cross-member to go back together is a bit of a juggling act. I actually did one side first then used a C-clamp to compress the bushing & pull the other side in close enough to thread the second A-Arm bolt.

Hint: Something that worked for me – when doing this step two c-clamps (& some wood shims), will allow you to clamp the spring pan to the a-arms while you compress the enter a-arm bushings to the Fulcrum bolted to the cross-member.

Good luck!
 
"I like to use two floor jacks and a set of Jack stands and I have done the whole front end by myself."

What do you use the second floor jack for, Bret? You don't rely on one floor jack to support the vehicle, do you?

Guinn
 
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