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Front suspension is out!

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drooartz

drooartz

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Took advantage of the day today and pulled the front suspension off of the MG. I think I got all the bits y'all were discussing: shocks through the lower A-arms. I took (what I think are called the) tie rods and ends off of the rack, as that seemed to be the easiest way to disassemble them. I left the hoses on the MG, since I'll replace them with new braided stainless when I make the switch.

suspension_gone.jpg
suspension.jpg


Not quite sure how to get the steering rack off the steering shaft, but it's the later rack so it doesn't fit the Bugeye anyways (right?). Probably not going to worry too much about it. I looked at taking the rear drums as well, but not sure I have all the right tools to pull it apart. I've got the axle shafts, so I'm probably good on rear end bits.

I'm going to leave the pedal assembly on the MG, since my guiding principle in Bugeye modification is no cutting. I may try to hunt down the later combined master cylinder for an eventual disc swap, but that's not a super priority. Thanks all for your suggestions on what to take. I think I've got it done, though I'm still open to any suggestions or tips.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

"""""Not quite sure how to get the steering rack off the steering shaft""""""

Just one pinch bolt that holds the shaft to the rack spud. remove it and unbolt the rack (4 screws on the 2 ally brackets). You MIGHT want to save the mast jacket assy...it will work in a Bugeye with slight modification to the top sheet metal where it exits the firewall..(see the bump on top?)....the only benefit is the collapsable lower section (safety).

""""""I looked at taking the rear drums as well, """""""

Two screws and the rear drums are off. I would take off the complete rear brake backing plates and hubs. Use those rear brakes on your Buggi as they have servo action and not the goofy two wheel cylinders that you now have.

The diff housing brackets are different so dont waste your time there. You did remove the gearset which is prolly a 3.70 or 3.90...no?

""""""""I may try to hunt down the later combined master cylinder for an eventual disc swap"""""

I sur would take the pedal box or at least the master. If its the dual master with the plastic jar it is rebuildable...this is an expensive part to buy new.

The pictures show some clean stuff...you pressure washed everything???

I could use the two front spring seats if your not gonna use them.....(same as the Bugeye)....what do you need in trade or? The last two cars I scrapped I didnt save the seat pans.....one I just cut the a-arms off with a sawzall as they were frozen at the bushings.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Drew, by all means take the rear brakes, including the backing plates. They're a much nicer system than the stock Bugeye, and are a bolt on.
Jeff
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

I did take the diff (a 3.9) and the axle half shafts already. Does the later steering rack work with a Bugeye? That'd be the only reason I'd want it, as a spare--the one in the Tunebug seems fine.

I may pull the brake master and cylinder, but I won't use them in the Tunebug. I'm adamant about the no-cutting rule, as I might want to go back to completely stock some day.

How do I get the backing plates for the rear drums off? I looked briefly at the rear end, but couldn't quite make out how it all works. Do I need the entire hand brake system as well? I'd assume at least that the rods that connect to the drums are different, but I could be wrong there.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Jerry - I'm probably going to keep the spring plates for now at least. Don't know what I'll need when I tackle the Tunebug's front end.

And no, I didn't clean a thing--that's how the car came to me. This car has been off the road for some time, and was assembled from a couple of cars a few years ago. Hasn't had road time to get it too grimy.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Drew, you have to pull the rear hubs to get the backing plates off. I could send you my home brew hub puller to use if you want.
If you're going to take the rear brakes, snatch all of the handbrake stuff too.
Jeff
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Has anyone found that the BE backing plates and later models are mounted about 22.5 degrees off from each-other? How do you deal with that? I have a newer set-up, but the E-brake does not line up enough to make it work!!
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

I am so jealous.
Tear down, rebuild, bigger motor, super BE, super bigger smiles.
Good job sir, my lid is doffed.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

This Midget was a good find, lots of stuff I'll be able to use. Of course, it will be a while until I can really use any of it, since I'm out of little car money for a while. Nice to have the bits on hand, though. Very exciting to be getting to the end of the removal process. Soon I'll be able to get working on the Tunebug again.

Jeff -- is the hub puller something I can find locally? I've got to dig into the Bugeye hubs eventually, so it's a tool I'm not against buying. Otherwise, I'd love to borrow yours to get the MG apart.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Drew, I never was able to find one locally. That's why I made my own.
You are more than welcome to use it, and copy it if you want.
Just PM me with an address to send it to, and I'll hustle it out.
Maybe I need to make another one anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Actually, this one was a hurry up job, but it's served well for 10 years or so.
Jeff
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

This may be a dumb question, but why not just swap the whole rear axle if you are going to be swapping the gears and brakes anyways? Seems like it would save a lot of time.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Jerry B,

I tried to PM you about spring pans, but it says your mailbox is full???
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Morris, the spring mounts on a 1/4 elliptic axle like the Bugeye are different than the later, semi elliptics.
You <u>can</u> swap the housings, but it requires fabrication and welding of new mounts.
Jeff
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Jeff beat me to it--Bugeye is a 1/4 elliptic rear, and the 74 is a 1/2.

Besides, this way I get to learn how all these bits work by taking them apart.
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

Drew, do you have the socket to remove the hub nuts? It takes a 1 7/8" socket.
Jeff
 
Re: Front suspension is out!SAVE MORE JUNK !!!!

I don't, but I like buying tools! I was wondering what the size was on that nut.
 
Good grief Drew. I take a brief hiatus from the forum, and when I return I see you're pulling your car apart! <grin>

Looks like a fun project. Good luck! I think you'll really enjoy the bigger engine.
 
Hi there, Kurtis! Good to see you back around.

Picked up the MG a couple months ago, just couldn't resist the lure of a larger engine and all the goodies. Plenty to keep me busy in 2007!
 
I just had to talk a friend through rear hub removal and I gave him this description:

To get the hub off I put a scrap of metal over the end of the axle housing so that a harmonic balancer or steering wheel puller can be used to pull the hub. The plate is needed so that the jack screw has a place to land. Use two opposite wheel studs as you pull points on the hub and run the puller jack screw down to the metal plate, making sure everything is centered. You sound be able to pull the hub until to plate bottoms out on the hub. At that point place a socket with an OD slightly less than the ID of the outer bearing (35mm / 1.378”) on the end of the axle housing, then put the scrap of metal over the square drive opening of the socket (even if the piece of metal is larger than the OD of the socket that is OK, tape it to the socket so it is easier to handle), use the wheel studs as before. You sound be able to pull the hub off most of the way until to plate bottoms out on the hub again. At that point you can usually wiggle it off.

See attached sketch (double bearing hub shown - same principle)
 

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I do something similar, except I flip an old brake drum over. Then insert a bit of 1/8" flat stock between the wheel studs. Tighten the nuts and it is about off. Then remove everything. This it a great junkyard techniques that requires no special tools. Just did it yesterday as I was parting out a '79.
 
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