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T-Series Front suspension, etc.

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GaryBeu

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Our front end has been shimmying at about 50mph and gets worse as speed increases. We had a ~good~ mechanic we know look at it today. He's not an MG guy but IS overall knowledgeable.

He left us a parts list that I don't understand...help with explaination??

Right and left upper and lower Ball Joints
Rack and pinion

We find the steering rack in the catalogs but can't figure what he means by the ball joints...

Thanks guys.

ps...of course he'll be able to 'splain it on Tuesday :smile:
 
Your MG does not have ball joints, it has a "king-pin" suspension which is the old version and he may not want to play with it. It is simple but old-fashion.
Could easily be that a GOOD lubrication of the front suspension will help but you will probably need some work eventually.
BillM
 
Bill said it. Kingpins and a pivot joint at the bottom, no "upper and lower" balljoints. There are balljoints at the ends of the rack arms, where the steering rack connects to the arms of the kingpin assemblies. Put the front-end up in the air with jack-stands under the A-arm spring pans (or a pair of drive-on ramps) to "load" the suspension, then have Carla "waggle" the steering wheel while you observe the motion. You should be able to see what's loose/sloppy. It could also be wheel bearing preload not correct... but that'd be too easy. :wink:

There are (or should be) three grease nipples on each kingpin assembly. Try the grease gun on 'em. That may help.

And BE SAFE with this stuff, An MG is small but you still can't lift it off yourself!
 
Doc...the mechanic verified that it's the joints at the upper and lower kingpins that he called "ball joints". He says they are sloppy. We drove up on ramps and Carla "waggled" the wheel back and forth quickly and all that I saw wiggling was the ends of the rack arm. I doubt that the mechanic had the suspension 'loaded' but I don't know. Do you think we should just order the 'major suspension kit' which replaces kingpins and all the rubber bushings and be done with it? If so, where might I find a king pin reamer to borrow? I can't afford to pay $200+ to buy one...

Mechanic also says the seals in the steering rack are leaking and the boots are ripped in places. Can't find the seals in any catalog so maybe I have to buy a whole new rack assembly? Thanks

Gary
 
GAH!! First replace the steering rack ball-joints. Do you have or can ya beg/borrow/steal a set of dividers?

...a good scale/ruler will suffice:

Scribe a line with ANYTHING (an awl works) onto the arms of the rack, accurately measure the distance from that line to the absolute CENTER of the ball-joints on each side. Unwind them and replace with new ones, screwing them in to match the prior measurements.

As for the boots, Moss should have Quinton Hazell replacements. Seals? Naaahhh. Just replace th' boots for now.

The lower trunion will be the biggest issue, IMO. But first things first, do the "easy" stuff mention'd above.
 
Thanks Doc. Guess I'll try that first and see what happens. I already have a set of new boots. By 'steering rack ball joints' do you mean what Moss calls 'tie rod ends'? What, exactly do you mean by the lower trunnion being the biggest issue? Where is that part? Thanks.
 
Tie rod ends, affirmative.

The trunion is the bit at the bottom of the kingpin where the steering pivots in it and the A-arm is able to pivot up-n-down. Two axis movement, lowest point on the system and prone to corrosion and excess wear as result. Usually the thru bolt seizes in the bushing sleeve to rub the a-arm hole into an egg shaped opening or worse.

It can't (usually) fail catastrophically but excess wear will throw off the geometry and make control "sloppy".
 
Thanks...I'll take a look at that when I take the rod ends out. I'll let ya know how it goes !!

Oh BTW...should I replace the tie-rod ends even if I take it apart and realize that the A-arms are egg-shaped and then replace them later? Just trying not to have her down for very long since we need her everyday!! :smile:
 
Hey Doc...if you see this post will you answer my above question please? Also, in order to replace the tie rods where should I place the jack stands?
 
GaryBeu said:
Also, in order to replace the tie rods where should I place the jack stands?
Click to expand...

Under the car. :devilgrin:

Seriously, though, I'd put 'em under the frame rails, just aft of the point where they curve upwards.
 
GaryBeu said:
Hey Doc...if you see this post will you answer my above question please? Also, in order to replace the tie rods where should I place the jack stands?
Click to expand...

Looks like Moss has them for about $18 a pair - yes, replace them!!! :yesnod:

Make sure you count the threads as you turn them out - or mark the location to make realigning easier
 
I have the tie-rods on order from Moss already. I~think~I know about marking the threads. Mickey...isn't that point on the rails back by the seats???
 
GaryBeu said:
I have the tie-rods on order from Moss already. I~think~I know about marking the threads. Mickey...isn't that point on the rails back by the seats???
Click to expand...

Without pictures and the ability to "point" arrows, it's hard to show you. But if you follow the frame rails from the mid-section forward, you'll see where they start to curve upward, and they basically parallel the line of the rear of the front wheel cutout of the fender. Place your jack stands right behind the point where the frame rails start to curve up and you should be good to go.

Keep your floor jack under the front cross member, just for insurance.
 
Duh...I went out and looked at the car :smile:. What you said is, of course, obvious. Thanks.
 
My input is late... Put the jack under the cross-member, the jackstands under the spring platforms of the A-arms. To replace those ball-joints get a set of dividers, go from the CENTER of the existing stud of the steering rod of the a-arm to a point (arbitrarily 6") ON THE ROD, scribe a line. Then as you wind the new ball-joint onto the rod, CENTER the dividers to the same point on the new stud.

Sounds complex, but easy to see if you get under there and try it.
 
Thanks Doc...
 
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