• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Front suspension and steering done - almost

David_Doan

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
More pics in my blog

DSC_0215.JPG


DSC_0228.JPG
 
David,
Wow, that looks great!
Rut
 
David,

I can't understand how you get these 50 y.o. parts to look so nice.This looks fabulous. Not only that but everything has a place and the bench is clean.
 
David,

Are you media blasting as well or is this cleanliness strictly from the degreaser.

Please pay attention to reassembly specs on the rack from the Service Manual. Too tight in torque or spacers not used and you'll find the rack will bind up at inappropriate times. Also be sure rack bolts are correct length, they bottom out and cannot be fully tightened if they are wrong. I lined but sides of the rack clamps with a piece of bicycle inner tube glued in place. Rack never moved after that. You may need to run a ground wire as horn does ground through the rack in order to get the horn to work.
 
David,

Are you media blasting as well or is this cleanliness strictly from the degreaser.

Please pay attention to reassembly specs on the rack from the Service Manual. Too tight in torque or spacers not used and you'll find the rack will bind up at inappropriate times. Also be sure rack bolts are correct length, they bottom out and cannot be fully tightened if they are wrong. I lined but sides of the rack clamps with a piece of bicycle inner tube glued in place. Rack never moved after that. You may need to run a ground wire as horn does ground through the rack in order to get the horn to work.


Now that I'm about done with the car (as far as cleaning grungy parts goes), I kind of have a system.


  • Soak in hot water and "oil eater" for an hour or so
  • Rinse, then wash with dishwasher detergent (the nasty stuff that goes in the dishwasher)
  • Wire wheel - I have several varieties depending on the size and type of metal. Most work is done with a 4" cup on my angle grinder and a 1/2" cup on my angle die grinder. Small parts get cleaned up on the bench grinder.
  • Then, if it is really rusty or is going to be painted, hose it down with phosphoric acid to stop rust and etch the metal for painting.
  • Then more wire wheel or scotch brite pad to remove the white dust from the acid treatment.
  • Phosphoric acid is also really good for cleaning cast aluminum.

Lastly, all the cast aluminum stuff gets painted with "Duplicolor Cast Coat Aluminum". This was a tip from Hap. It looks just like aluminum but will be easy to keep clean.

I saw you previous not about the rack bolts, and I verified that mine will go down far enough.
 
David,

I can't understand how you get these 50 y.o. parts to look so nice.This looks fabulous. Not only that but everything has a place and the bench is clean.


The bench is clean AFTER I've cleaned up. While working, that bench is covered with tools and 2 other work tables in the garage are covered with parts and stuff. I always try to work neatly, but by the end of the day its always a disaster.
 
I've always used grease too, but there are lots of opinions on this subject.


Yep just like the tube shock conversation. The spridget guys are pretty laid back though. In the Big Healey forum, the discussion would not be oil or grease, it would be the merits of different kinds of oil and those who spoke of grease would probably be banned.
 
I've heard good things about 'corn head grease', has anyone used it?
Rut
 
I've heard good things about 'corn head grease', has anyone used it?
Rut

Corn head grease is grease that flows like oil. Used mostly on slow moving, sloppy fitting machinery - hence the name. It has the consistency of snot. I crossed that off my list since it it also another potential for black spots on the garage floor. There's a couple threads about it here and in the Big Healey forum.

Long term oil might be better, but I doubt most of us will ever wear out a steering rack regardless of what lube is used.
 
At Minus 5 Peter Bugsy stays in the garage. I've tolerated a sunny 30 degrees with windows up, wind blocker in place, tonneau, and heater on full blast for a <10 mile jaunt to run errands but that's my limit. And I was 10 years younger last time I did that. You Cheeseheads are gluttons for punishment. Or maybe trying to get the Morris going in the winter, same stuff applies.
 
Maaaaaaaaaaaaaan that's pretty! Fantastic work! BTW I put oil in my rack once and it ran out everywhere; the splined shaft, the crack between the housing and the brass cover plate opposite that shaft, the boots, etc. What a mess!
 
The cornhead stuff may weep a bit, but it does not drip like the oil did.
 
Here's a shot of my steering rack after being stripped and resprayed. a few noticeable differences in garage layout however :smile:
DSCN0472.jpg
 
Back
Top