Front Springs ......

[nomad]

I've used the long bolt method and been advised against doing it any other way so I guess I'm not experienced in the jack method. I use an air rachet on the bolts that makes it a quick way of doing it both out and in. Remember there is a lot of energy stored in those springs!

Kurt.

 

[JPSmit]

Thanks Rick, if it's worked for you and Jack's done it for 30 years that's good enough for me!

Now, how about reinstalling them?

Fred

reverse of above - insert spring and raise jack. I had to kick in the spring. And this doesn't work unless the engine is installed or you have gravitationally advantaged friends.

 

[TulsaFred]

The bolts in my spring seat are corroded so I went to Lowe's to buy new replacements. They carry Grade 5 and Grade 8 bolts matching the size (5/16" x 1") of the old ones, but the threads on the old bolts are finer, perhaps 24 tpi, while Lowes only has them in 18 tpi.

Any need for the finer threads?
Grade 5 good enough?

Fred

 

[drooartz]

Most every bolt on a Spridget is fine thread, and most are grade 5. I used grade 8 on the Tunebug for no real reason other than I could (okay, the yellow zinc coating is cool). Get the fine thread would be my recommend. Decent hardware store should stock them.

When I redid the front suspension I did use the long bolt method -- still have the bolts in my tool box just in case. Maybe not as fast, but very controllable and worked like a charm.

 

[Billm]

I would DEFINITELY use the fine thread, grade 5 or better.
If a course thread starts to loosen it comes off fairly fast, a fine thread tends to stay on longer. The pans are not a place that you check very often!
BillM
Go to a nut & bolt place, not Lowes. Ace hardware is usually good too.

 

[RickB]

True Value also, and of course NAPA should have them.

 

[Pythias]

Guys,
my Haynes manual says that to remove the front coil springs on my B/E I should buy some longer fully threaded bolts (4.5 inch minimum), then remove two bolts from the spring seat and replace with the long bolts. Then remove the other two regular bolts, and slowly back out the long bolts until all spring tension is taken away. Then apparently the spring comes right out through the bottom spring seat hole.
I haven't looked under the car yet, but is this how it's done?

Fred

Installation is the reverse of the stated procedure.

 

[jlaird]

JP has my spring removal and replace system down pat.

Is easy and fast and safe,

 

[JPSmit]

JP has my spring removal and replace system down pat.

Is easy and fast and safe,

 

[john_j]

Axle stands (quite high) under the chassis, trolley jack under the outer end of the wishbone, remove top trunnion bolt, gently lower the jack. No problems.

It's a bit tight getting the wishbone down far enough to get the spring out, but it comes out.

If you're a wuss you could put spring compressors on first, but there's so space for the spring to boing out and hit you because the upstands in the spring pan and top mount won't let it escape.

I used the long bolt method the first time but it takes forever to wind it all the way down.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

An air powered ratchet makes it go really quickly.

 

[RickB]

Axle stands (quite high) under the chassis, trolley jack under the outer end of the wishbone, remove top trunnion bolt, gently lower the jack. No problems.

It's a bit tight getting the wishbone down far enough to get the spring out, but it comes out.

If you're a wuss you could put spring compressors on first, but there's so space for the spring to boing out and hit you because the upstands in the spring pan and top mount won't let it escape.

I used the long bolt method the first time but it takes forever to wind it all the way down.

I did too, and I used an air ratchet to wind it down and it still took too long.
The key is to slowly take the pressure off the spring.