TR2/3/3A Front spring removal

[bobhustead]

I need to do the trunnions. On the 3 I had in my teens, I used to r&r the springs using a hydraulic jack under the plate. I don't, however, recall how hard this was. Should I get the Moss specialized compressor or rent one from DAP?
Thanks, Bob

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi Bob,

I highly recommend using an internal spring compressor like the one moss sells. I don't think you will be able to rent one as most modern cars have the external ones that won't works on our cars.

If you are up to it, you could make your own with some sturdy threaded rod.

This may be helpful (or not )

https://youtu.be/m_Z3Zv5fgZM

Cheers
Tush

 

[Tybalt]

There's always the front spring compressor from TRF under part number RFT102 for TR2 through TR4, see this catalog page:

https://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3Handbook/15.php

I've used one of their RFT103 spring compressors for the TR4A through TR6 (only difference between RFT102/103 is the plate that goes against the spring pan) for about 30 years, absolutely bullet proof and much safer than the old jack under the spring pan method. They also offer a version with both spring pan plates under RFT104.

 

[TR3driver]

+1 on needing a purpose-made internal spring compressor. There is a LOT of energy stored in those springs while they are compressed; and one slip can cost you a finger or worse!

Here's a shot of my home-made unit, just some threaded rod and a heavy chunk of metal from the scrap bin (think it was originally a generator pulley for a VW bug) Still works great after some 30 years of use.

 

[bobhustead]

Thanks for all the responses. When I posted the query, I was working from a six month old memory that I had wear on the inside of the front tires and lack of concentricity at the trunnions. I have since looked at the car. The wear is even and on the outsides of both front tires. I won't ask for input on breaking loose the tie rod lock nuts that haven't moved in 40 years.
Thanks again , Bob