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Front Shock and Bushings

Bruce74B

Jedi Knight
Offline
The groudhog saw his shadow, predicting 6 more weeks of winter, so I decided to jack up the B for a little front end work. I have new steering rack gaitors to put on. I am sure that one of my shocks is shot and am considering replacing the bushings while I am under there and have things apart. When I got a good look a things, they all seem to be pretty solid, but I am afraid that some of that firmness might be from the grease and grime that has covered everything from the crossmember to the brake calipers, which is largely coated with orange body paint. I have worn out quite a few wire brush attachments to my Dremmil tool dealing with the orange paint everywhere.

My concern is how to deal with the gunk on the suspension parts and how to tell what else needs replaced...I really don't want to get into a major rebuild if the kingpins are in good shape, but I'm not really experienced enough to know how to tell.

Also, a while back here there was a thread about a good place to send the shocks (they are the original Armstrongs)to have them rebuilt and returned, but I can't seem to find it.

Any words of wisdom will be greatly appreciated.

Bruce
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Bruce;
Wear rubber gloves, you can buy some at the grocery store in cleaning section. This is a crummy job as you now know.
Put several layers of newspapers on the ground, and use a putty knife and screwdriver to get the heavy gunk off, then go at it with a wire brush.
Carefully fold up the newspaper and throw away. Lay several more layers down over cardboard, and use a coffee can with about 1/4 full of kerosene and a parts brush to carefully clean the remaining gunk off. Wipe down with old rags. Be mindful and careful of the fire hazard.
Try greasing the three grease fittings on each side for the kingpins and lower trunnions. If they won't take any grease, they may be packed with dried up stuff. Time for disassembly /inspection/cleaning.
Be careful not to soak the brake pads/rotors with any kerosene. If any get on them, a thorough cleaning with alcohol will be necessary.
 
Just curious, since shocks are the subject of this post, what do think about monroe replacements up front, is there a cheaper way to do it other than the $400+ kit?

Thanks.
 
Bluecoat: Keep searching, my son and I put a front tube shock conversion on his '71 B around 10 years ago (they are still good) and as I remember it was right around $100. They were definitely less than the cost of two rebuilt lever units. Unfortunately I can't recall the source. Bob
 
Jack up the front of the car. Use stands. Have someone grab the wheel at the 12 oclock and 6 positions and try to rock as you are under and looking at the place where the pins would come out of the stub axle, both top and bottom. If you see play, your king pins are shot. If not, you are ok.
Still, the rubber bushings are much more likely to go. It's no big deal to drop the pans, sandblast and paint all the metal bits a shiny black, then reassemble with all new rubber bushings. Or, poly bushings. You won't have that slight shimmy every time you hit a pothole.
 
From reading a couple of other MGB BBS, there seems to be a large group that say that the original ones rebuilt by an experienced lever shock rebuilder is the best and that if you go to the tube shock conversion that the only really good ones are the tube over conversions that are really expensive. I am considering going back to lever shocks as I got talked into a tube conversion and I am not impressed with the handling. First I will replace the tube shocks and see what that does. You might search MGB Experience and the UK BBS.
 
I did the degrease last summer when I changed the rotors. Nasty job, but all the fittings take grease now, which is an improvement. Repacked the wheel bearings while I was at it, which is a story unto itself.
 
Thanks for the help, folks!
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I have her on jack stands and have scraped and Dremilled for hours, have soaked all the bolts in WD40 and hope to be able to beak them this weekend. Since she is parked in the basement garage, right next to the the house gas furnace, I think I will do the kerosene (I wondered what parafin was until I read the "translator table" in my new Bentley manual)outside
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Spring is not far away!

Bruce
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WHAT IS THE BEST PENETRATING OIL MONEY CAN BUY?

I managed to get the sway bar off by cutting as many bolts than I removed...got the nuts off OK, but couldn't get the bolts out of the pan. The swaybar bushing was fused to the bolt on top of the link on one side and neither link would come out of the pan.

Got the steering rack cleaned up and installed new gaitors for the rack...but again, could not get the tierod ends out of the axle holes.

I told my wife the only thing I want for my birthday was a can of the best penetrating oil she can get...I have used liquid wrench and WD40, but told her I would check the LBC Forum to find out what is the best for 30 YO bolts.

Any and all suggestions are welcome!!!
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Bruce
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As for the best penetrating oil to be had...from my experience, go with PB Blaster
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. Strong odor but strong product! Like all penetrants...be sure to give it time to do it's magic!
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There are likely to be more than 100 of the best, but here goes anyway.

Kroil - Made by Kano Laboratories. Order direct - 615-833-4101.
D
 
I agree with Dave, I use Aerokroil..
It is great. I have never used PB blaster, but have heard good things about it. I get the Aerokroil from work, when it has expired shelf life date. (I don't think it really has a shelf life, but I am not going to argue the point, out of self interest)

Ed
 
OK...I found it on sale online so I bought 2
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Now if I can figure out how to order the v-8 bushings, brake pads abd a few other things from Roop's should be ready to go.

Thanks for the experts' advice. You guys are great!

Bruce
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