Front hub replacement.

[John Turney]

How tight do you make the knock-on hubcap? I always tighten until they ring. Remember that on a Rudge type hub it is the taper that drives the wheel, not the splines.

I can't imagine that a greased taper would have that much friction. Also, if the taper drives the wheel, I would think the splines wouldn't wear.

I have a knock-off wrench and tighten the knock-off about half a turn after I can no longer turn it by hand.

 

[steveg]

If the hubs are installed on the correct sides of the car, the knockoffs are self-tightening. You can verify this by putting a sharpie mark between the spinner and the wheel. After some driving the knockoff will have moved in the tighter direction.

 

[Jeepster]

All the other wheels tighten with zero play after a couple of taps with hammer and wooden spinner spanner thing.
Just cant work out why the one hub/wheel has play?
the taper on the hub and the spinner should take out the play even if the splines had some wear.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Are you replacing the outer bolt on hub where the splines are?
This is interesting...
https://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/ThingsToDo.jpg

 

[Brinkerhoff]

The knockoff nuts need to be pretty tight or the wheel will work back and forth while turning corners and cause wear on the spines.

 

[bob hughes]

All the other wheels tighten with zero play after a couple of taps with hammer and wooden spinner spanner thing.
Just cant work out why the one hub/wheel has play?
the taper on the hub and the spinner should take out the play even if the splines had some wear.

Just a thought - have you had an assistant move the wheel for you whilst you examine exactly what is going on? hub, wheel, bottom wishbone bracket etc.



Bob

 

[steveg]

Try the following: support the front of the car on jackstands and jack up the wheel in question by the spring pan. Then you can move the wheel back and forth and see where the problem is.
I had my upper trunions wear out and you could move the wheel back and forth. This would also show if the kingpin or bushes are worn.

 

[Jeepster]

Try the following: support the front of the car on jackstands and jack up the wheel in question by the spring pan. Then you can move the wheel back and forth and see where the problem is.
I had my upper trunions wear out and you could move the wheel back and forth. This would also show if the kingpin or bushes are worn.

The upper and lower bushes are all brand new, replaced last week.
the play is most definitely between the hub and the wheel.

 

[steveg]

The upper and lower bushes are all brand new, replaced last week.
the play is most definitely between the hub and the wheel.

Don't know if it was previously mentioned: the bearings & shims are adjusted without grease. Use a light coat of WD40 or 3 in 1. When they're properly adjusted, pack with grease.

 

[Csarneson]

I don't really understand it but it sounds as though your hub is damaged/deformed. The only thing you might need to make the swap would be differing sized shims. I don't understand why there are no vendors that just make a shim kit that contains a selection of sizes. Many of us can't make our own shims. It's strange to imagine putting the entire corner back together to measure spacing and then having to wait a couple weeks for an order to arrive again containing $1.20 in shims. My new hubs came from AH Spares and appear to be of excellent quality and priced far cheaper than Moss.

 

[steveg]

I don't really understand it but it sounds as though your hub is damaged/deformed. The only thing you might need to make the swap would be differing sized shims. I don't understand why there are no vendors that just make a shim kit that contains a selection of sizes. Many of us can't make our own shims. It's strange to imagine putting the entire corner back together to measure spacing and then having to wait a couple weeks for an order to arrive again containing $1.20 in shims. My new hubs came from AH Spares and appear to be of excellent quality and priced far cheaper than Moss.

Sounds to me like it needs more/better adjustment.

Moss sells a shim assortment kit, "Front Suspension" section, item 122, PN 263-508

 

[steveg]

An easy test (with no grease per above) would be to take out all the shims and tighten the nut until there is drag on the bearings.

Does the wheel still rock?

If not, your shims need further adjustment.

If so, a bearing is sloppy on the stub axle. Maybe the bearing is incorrect or previously spun bearings have worn the axle. Compare dimensions of axle and bearing bores to other side which presumably works correctly.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Sounds to me like it needs more/better adjustment.

Moss sells a shim assortment kit, "Front Suspension" section, item 122, PN 263-508

In my (albeit limited) experience--BN2 and BJ8--the necessary shim pack is 0.030", give-or-take a few thou. I think the thinnest shim you can get--at least from Moss--is 0.003", so if you get 2 X 0.010, a couple 0.005s and a couple 0.003s you should get close (for one side).

 

[bob hughes]

Have you tried another wheel on the hub? because if there is no movement on the brake disc then the hub should be tight on the stub axle, the problem must lie in the wheel itself? loose spokes - worn hub?



Bob

 

[bob hughes]

I don't really understand it but it sounds as though your hub is damaged/deformed. The only thing you might need to make the swap would be differing sized shims. I don't understand why there are no vendors that just make a shim kit that contains a selection of sizes. Many of us can't make our own shims. It's strange to imagine putting the entire corner back together to measure spacing and then having to wait a couple weeks for an order to arrive again containing $1.20 in shims. My new hubs came from AH Spares and appear to be of excellent quality and priced far cheaper than Moss.

I have purchased a selection of shims as the hubs have been off and more times than I have had hot dinners - so reinstatement is never a problem now.



Bob