TR2/3/3A Front Engine Plate

[mt10flyer]

In another thread I posted my trials and tribulations with repetitive timing chain tensioner failures on my 59 TR3. Someone posted about their experience with the tensioner eventually wearing a "ditch" into the front engine plate which is something I had not thought about. Nor did I notice anything strange during my complete engine rebuild 500 miles ago.

Not happy about the prospect of pulling the engine to replace the front plate, should that be the case, I started thinking. This is always step one towards the eventual disaster. I "think" it would be possible to put a jack under the oil pan, loosen and remove the engine mounts, and slightly raise the engine giving access to replacement of the front engine plate (again - should that be necessary). What say ye of infinite wisdom? Any other fools try this?

 

[PeterK]

Before I did that, I would have to be convinced it was really needed. Many have a groove warn slightly on the front plate. I would suggest reading the workshop manual to be certain that you understand how the tensioner is fit and that it was not installed incorrectly. They wear but it usually takes a couple of decades to need replacing.

 

[TR3driver]

I agree. My TR3A engine had a groove there, and it didn't seem to hurt anything at all.

But I think you probably could replace the plate that way, if you have to. Only source for new plates that I know of is
https://the-vintage-racer.com//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=15

 

[Don Elliott]

I don't believe that you can lift a TR engine by unbolting the front motor mounts. These are angled and the bolts do not lift vertically as if you are lifting the engine. Being on and angle the studs for the motor mounts will jam and you can't lift the engine.

 

[TR3driver]

I'm pretty sure I've done it at least once; I usually leave the motor mounts on the frame when pulling the engine. But if not, you could always unbolt the mounts from the frame.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I replaced the motor mounts w/o removing the engine so yeah -- I'd say it can be done. Worst case you might have to 'rock' the engine to get one motor mount completely out, then it would not bind as it raised.

 

[sp53]

Yeh the ditches seem to very depending on how long it ran with a bad tensioner, and I am not sure that is your problem. I was trying to think of causes as to why they keep going out. I would do what Pete suggested first and make sure they were put on correct. They do have a small load as you pull the cover on with the belly on the chain. If the ditch is a problem, perhaps you could remove the apron and clean just that little area and fill it with a wire feed with the engine in. it would not have to be a high quality weld and it might not hurt the material behind it. I have taken the plates off before with the engine in the car. I just supported the engine from underneath then pulled everything off from the front and that would be the best way to weld the plate flat if you do not warp it welding it.

 

[mt10flyer]

Concerning proper installation, I just can't see how it could be done incorrectly. The pin is new, and like sp53 says, there is a small load when you position the cover, but as far as I can see, it is about the most fool proof install on the entire car. Am I missing something (quite possible).

One thing I am thinking, if the tensioner can wear a ditch in the front plate, maybe there is also a worn ditch on the cover where the spring contacts the cover. If that were deep enough the spring might not slide when compressed which I suppose could result in failure. I'll check that out as well.

Well thanks guys. The surgery will be on Saturday. I'll take pics.

 

[sp53]

I am not sure either; however, it does seem possible that the belly could go wrongly against the cover and leave that little tail rubbing on the chain. When yours broke did they have wear on the belly of the tensioner or on the tip?