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(In-joke - I had a friend who was dating a woman from eastern Europe - she kept getting "impressed" and "depressed" mixed up, with amusing results. However, with the quality of work shown here, versus my own - both might apply!).
Bill, yes my wheels are 14” needed the extra room for 9”rotors. The rear calipers were the most troublesome for clearance. On the front I spaced the steering arm and used a shorter rose joint to move the steering arm away from wheel. I also raised the upper trunnions by doubling the upper trunnion bushing.
Brian a arms can be rebuilt, Apple Hydraulics offers that service NFI. They've done 2 sets for me. With new lower prices on A arms recently cheaper to go new via usual suspects.
Brian, I decided to go with new British Heritage control arms with the twin zerk grease fittings. Control arms were installed with the black Prothane control arm bushings.
You still have the stock shock as the single upper control arm. On my racer I use MGB front shocks, mounted to a slightly tapered plate (plate has three holes to mount to frame, and four helicoiled inserts to take the bolts holding the MGB shock in place. That gives a much more solid upper control arm, plus the adapter plate builds in negative camber (enough that I have to use an offset upper trunion turned to give some positive camber back so that I have -1 degree negative that the Hoosier slicks like) -
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