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Front End Bushings

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KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
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I really labored to do a precision job installing all new bushings, tie rods and ball joints on the front end of my TR4A.

But no matter how hard I tried, the upper rubber bushings that get "compressed" into the upper/inner wishbone arms don't look right. They are so squashed by the slotted steel washer that get screwed down on them that the are sort of "vulcan-eared" behind the washer. Contorted in a way. Still round, but spread out and pancaked a bit.

I removed them twice, refit them, screwed down the washer, and then watched them squash out again.

Anyone have this issue? Maybe it's to be ignored? My front end alignment shop wasn't too concerned, but, yes, being a TR enthusiast, it has me wondering if I need to re-do the work. Thoughts?
 
One of the problems with the original rubber bushings is they are very soft. Some distortion is normal. Using a light grease when assembling also helps let the bushings "seat" . I used Prothane bushings & even they show a little bit of squish. If you do decide to re-do I would recomend a harder compound for both durabily & function. The original rubber bushings were notorious for early deterioration.
One other last thought is to make sure the upper control arms are in the proper orientation, if I remember correctly they are marked L & R.
 
Hi,

"...if I remember correctly they are marked L & R."

Not always. The earlier cars weren't marked. Most TR6 seem to be. I'm not sure about TR250 or TR4A. My TR4 was not marked until I etched "L" & "R" on them just for my own convenience.

It's pretty simple anyway, on all the 3 degree castor cars from early TR4 on... The longer upper control arm goes toward the front of the car. On the earlier 0 degree castor cars, the upper a-arms are symetrical and interchangeable.

I agree, some squish of the bushings is quite normal. Sounds like the rebuild you've done is fine, as far as possible with rubber bushings.

Mitch is right, rubber won't last long, maybe a year or two in daily driver use. Heck, they harden and crack and deform just from sitting. Urethane are a much better solution.

BTW, there are different hardnesses of urethane bushings available, if the harder type are too harsh. It will take a bit of searching, though, since most LBC vendors just sell a single hardness with a "urethane is urethane" attitude. Land Rover vendors are much better at providing matched sets of bushings in a choice of hardness.

A company like Prothane, who make the bushings, might have a lot more info on "durometer" and selection, perhaps on a website. Bushings are actually pretty generically made in wide a variety of sizes and shapes.

Cheers!

Alan
 
The problem may be that the bushings are too big. I ordered rubber bushes from TRF a few years ago and had to trim one of them down to fit. The uppers are two barrels that slide into each side of the arm leaving only a 3/16 flange visible once everything is together. If one of the barrels is too long there will be excess material sticking out and thus getting squished by the washer/castlenut.

Regarding having the correct wishbone arm orientation I don't think it matters as it affects the bushes, the suspension geometry is another matter. I'm sandblasting my suspension arms today and noticed that the "R" and "L" markings are on the same arm just different sides. I made a note when I took my suspension apart which arm goes toward the front of the car. If you lay the arms side by side you will notice that one has more arc in it than the other, this arm goes toward the front of the car, the more straight arm goes toward the rear.
 
Re: Follow Up

Thx for the help and advice. Next time, I'll try the urethane ones, but here's a really important question:

When disassembling the front end, how on earth can I disconnect the ball joints and tie rods without pounding with a pitch fork? I can't stand whacking the car with a hammer and pitch fork, and the modified "Churchill" tool I bought here in Town actually broke--the steel wasn't hard enough. thx
 
Re: Follow Up

Hi,

Go to jcwhitney.com and look up ZX881770B

Cheap. Works great on TR tie rod ends and ball joints. No whacking required. I've got a drawer full of other ball joint tools gathering dust. This one works. I don't know why it's designated for VW... it's universal.

Cheers!

Alan
 
Re: Follow Up

Simple solution to removing ball joints and tie rods. Remove the bottom nut almost entirely - leave it on a thread or two. Then whack both sides of the link simultaneously with two large hammers. The bigger the better. About three good whacks at exactly the same moment slightly distorts the link and releases the ball joint or tie rod. Works everytime.

As for assembling bushings, use hydraulic rubber assembly fluid to help drive in the bushings. Then use anti-seize compound around where the bushings get compressed. I was able to wiggle my bushings in easily with anti-seize. Plus it helps lubricate these joints over time. Great on trunnion bushings and pivot bolts as well.

Also, for trunnions - use Mercury Marine gear oil. It has far more anti moisture qualities than regular gear oil.

As for rubber deteriorating over time. Oh really? A year or two? I don't think so. Beside, poly can be pretty brutal on your kidneys. If your is a Sunday driver I'd stick with rubber. There's a lot of controversy in this area.
 
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