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front emblem rehab ideas???

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rusty55

Jedi Hopeful
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I have the emblem off the front of the TR3. It's the original one, but the glass or whatever is layed into it was cracked and in poor condition. I've had it rechromed and now want to put the white and blue back in. Any ideas?
 
It's Cloisonné made from powdered bits of enamel and other stuff, that is fired in a kiln until it melts to form the final color. Maybe an arts place could help you (I remember doing this stuff in high school arts class). But since you already rechromed it, careful not to get it too hot. The color might also be replicated with a thick emanel paint flowed into each area.
 
I haven't a clue if you can duplicate the proper colors, but my wife does arts and crafts and one of her crafts requires melting, I think hard plastic beads, in various metal framed shapes in a small oven. The temp is not that high. The finished product is very hard, almost like glass and looks very nice. She buys the beads at arts and crafts stores. Who knows, might work in your case. I'd play with the colors first on something that didn't matter though.
 
Interesting site, nice work. Their work is a bit pricey. I think you can buy a repro from the big three for under $100.

I like the plastic bead idea since you have already invested the money to have it replated. Might be the best way to go.

Let us know how you make out.

Tinkerman
 
Tinkerman said:
Interesting site, nice work. Their work is a bit pricey. I think you can buy a repro from the big three for under $100.

I like the plastic bead idea since you have already invested the money to have it replated. Might be the best way to go.

Let us know how you make out.

Tinkerman
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I agree. Their work looks real nice, but not cheap. I was trying to keep the original since I was told it would be much better quality than the repros. I will investigate the beads, thanks alot.
 
Investigate <span style="font-weight: bold">Cloisonne</span>, that is what the original badge is. Melted glass beads in a brass relief pattern.
 
Rusty55 - For a TR3 you should not have any blue on it. If the one on your TR3 was blue and white, it's from a late TR3A and it's not correct for a TR3. It should be red and black with the name TRIUMPH along the bottom.
 

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Between those two were a red and black that did not have Triumph on it because the Triumph lettering was on the hood, used on the early TR3A's in 1958 (mine). Then for a short period in 1959ish was a blue and white that has black in the lower "U".
 
Mine is TS 62577 L. Can anyone tell me the color it should be? I do have the individual triumph letters on the the front as well. The emblem only says TR3 though.
 
I found some badges for the Spitfires- I cleaned them, then masked the ridges and sprayed them with a self-etching primer. Using enamel, I painted one red and white, the colors of the car and one blue and white- trying to duplicate the proper colors for my wife's car. When the paint was dry, I pulled off the masking tape. The badges have been on the cars for a few years, the red and white about four years and the blue and white about two years. They still seem to be OK.
T.T.
 
rusty55 said:
Mine is TS 62577 L. Can anyone tell me the color it should be? I do have the individual triumph letters on the the front as well. The emblem only says TR3 though.
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Should look like the one Don showed above, with blue and white.

None of the badges, etc ever said "TR3A" as the factory never officially recognized that as a model (although apparently some US dealers did call them that). But enthusiasts pretty much universally use the TR3A designation for TS-series cars after TS22013, to indicate the collection of changes that came in at that point, which included the wide grill, the separate TRIUMPH letters, redesigned front apron, changed front bumper, exterior door handles and so on.

Then the "TR3B" designation starts with the TSF- and TCF- cars. The factory did use the TR3B designation sometimes, though not consistently. But AFAIK, the badges still said TR3.
 
Right, Randall. The only place I've ever seen the factory ID these cars as 3A models is in later editions of the Spare Parts Catalogue, where the cover was amended to read TR 2-3-3A models.

As for the change from red/black to blue/white badges, I'm pretty sure it was some time around the late summer or early fall of 1958, more or less for the 1959 model year. It happened company-wide, as the same change was made for the Triumph 10 badge as well as Standard 10, Pennant and other models.
 
Rusty,
You might goggle "enameling". There is a lot of information on the web.

This is an example. I did the artwork and generated the CNC program that made this. A local woman did the enameling, sad thing is that I do not know her name.
 
Andrew Mace said:
The only place I've ever seen the factory ID these cars as 3A models is in later editions of the Spare Parts Catalogue, where the cover was amended to read TR 2-3-3A models.
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Hmm, are you sure that was the factory? I have several SPCs and the only one that mentions "3A" also says "Vintage Triumph Register". From that, I infer that it was a reproduction made by VTR. There are a few pages that aren't aligned just right as well, as though the pages are photocopies. And it's binder is covered in white vinyl, rather than (now gray) cloth as all of the originals from that period seem to be.
 
I'm sure; it's a late issue, with the typical grey cover, etc., etc. I think (have to look again to be sure) I've also got a spiral-bound version with "...3A" on the cover. I'm not quite sure of the timeline on those spiral-bound versions, but they're identical save for plastic spiral binding as opposed to ring-binder style.
 
I’ve redone a couple of Triumph badges. Cold enamel worked best for me, the 2 part epoxy used in jewelry. Degrease, mask the ridges, then flow thin layers into each cell with a toothpick and let it level. Pop tiny bubbles with brief, distant heat. After full cure, wet sand 2000 and lightly polish the raised chrome.
For TS 62577 with the separate TRIUMPH letters, blue and white is right. I used a premixed cold enamel blue for durability.

Side note, I was also cutting back on booze, and the Abbeycare Foundation homepage had solid UK regulated info. If that’s relevant, worth a quick look.
 
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Geeez, now I'm glad I removed all the badges/lettering from my car. How could one possibly get it right ;)

Rod
 
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