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MGB Front Cross member pads

Boggsy64

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Well as I progressed to put the front suspension back together I thought I would see if the front cross member was tight against the frame. Sure enough a little jack pressure and it moved. So I guess the pads need changed. Looking at the bolts and reading other internet posts (you know how that goes) it sounds fairly simple to replace the pads. One question: the bolts appear to be studs with threads on both ends. Mine have nyloc type nuts on top and bottom. If you try to loosen the nuts will the whole stud turn? I am a one man shop right now and don't have a way (at least an easy way) to hold the nuts in the engine compartment and crawl under to get at the lower nuts at the same time. OR can you simple loosen the lower nuts and not secure the top nuts? The diagram shows the stud having a middle section that looks like a shoulder of some kind. I did not know if the top nuts pulled the stud into place and then the lower nuts could be applied and removed independent of the upper nuts. I would like to know what to expect before I get started.
 
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Boggsy64

Boggsy64

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I just talked to John Twist at University Motors about this. He is a great guy and helpful! He confirmed what I thought the shoulder on the cross member bolts is pulled up into the frame and only the bottom nuts need be removed to replace the pads. The shoulder effectively turns the long bolt into a "stud" on the bottom. There is a chance the upper nut will spin but not usually.
 

drooartz

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Let us know how it goes. I've not had to dig into that part of my suspension system yet.
 
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Boggsy64

Boggsy64

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Was sidetracked for a week but just completed the front cross member to body pad replacement. About an hour job in total. Simple 3/4" socket and a jack. Loosened lower bolts only and uppers did not turn. The back two bolts on each side are easy because the nuts are right there for access. The front two are behind the springs but I had removed them already. There is an access hole through the cross member to get at the front bolts and using a "snap on" universal joint adapter that my dad passed to me it was a piece of cake to get the front bolts as well. Using the universal joint socket adapter I could have gotten the nuts off with the whole front assembled.
Only trick is lowering each side the same amount to get the cross member to go back onto the "studs" correctly. I loosened the nuts to just leave enough to support one side while completely removing nuts and replacing the pads on the other side. Then working backwards for reassembly.
The new polyurethane pads are double the thickness of the originals which were nearly gone. Torqued to the proper setting (55 ft lbs) and will allow it to sit overnight and then re-torque just to see if the pads compress some more.
Over all one of the easiest jobs on this old B yet.:smile:
 

Mickey Richaud

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Count your lucky stars - that job can be a bear!

Mickey
 
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