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Front Bushings - best source?

RickB

Yoda
Offline
Apparently I need to replace some bushings up front, this is for a 78 Midget (though appearances may deceive).

Where do I find good new bushings for street use, I want a good mixture of comfort and handling if possible.
So no I don't want the poly stuff, rubber would do just fine I am guessing. With the quality issues out there I want to be sure I am getting product that will fit and last.
 
Cool, I like Peter.
He also has good suggestions for local beers. :jester:
 
What was that beer, Rick,umm----Jumping cow?---spotted cow?----. At any rate the group drank the town dry of -something-cow. You got the last one and I never got a taste!!

Kurt.
 
Ah that makes me sad Kurt!!

I am glad I was able to buy Two Women for our friend BillM while I went Totally Naked at Siebkens Bar!!

Ok ok...
"Two Women" and "Totally Naked" are local beers from the New Glarius brewery there close to Elkhart Lake.
 
Ya know, I contacted the brewery the week before, suggesting that "people of considerable taste" are coming to town, and we might have a run on Spotted Cow and that it would be cool for these visitors to have a memento in their goodie bag. I was disappointed they didn't pony-up some "tip a cow" key fobs, or something.

Great brewery, though.

https://www.newglarusbrewing.com

They do not sell out of state...... they can't keep up. A bar in Manhattan got BIG fines for serving it. It was a semi-load, though.

Plan for Octoberfest sometime in September. Great party.

Peter
 
Does anyone have experience with these?
What are the parts for exactly?
Are the trunion bushings included here?
2 sets per A arm equals 8 bushings, then there are 4 more - trunions each side?

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=75728&SortOrder=1

280-938_1.jpg
 
Yeah, 8 bottom 4 topt total. I'm going poly this go round ( same set as above). The rubber doesn't last at all. I get about 10K and they need to be changed.
 
Well if you want this set I suggest you go through one of the resellers that support this site, keep it in the family here.
 
I have poly in my Bugeye and love it. I don't notice a rough ride, but it probably is rougher than a stock Bugeye (then again, my Bugeye is far from stock). I have had to replace the trunnion bushings though......the hole got wallowed out after a few years of use......this is my only real complaint, but I drive my car pretty hard so I really can't blame the bushings.
 
Well, Peter, we surely have good taste in auto's!! So our loss was their's as well!
Now I'm going to have to make a drive to Wisconsin just for a "Spotted Cow". Maybe I could make some cash by hauling a case or two back just like guys did with Coors in my college days. (Though with Coors I never could figure the attraction).

Kurt.
 
Rick; I personally prefer the poly for the top trunnion and rubber for the inner A arm. I fitted all of them on my BE and don't feel they give enough. On the Midget I took to LoTO I fitted the poly at the top and rubber at the bottom and I think I prefer that. Least thats my experience, others may very!

Kurt.
 
Just my 2p but poly will outlast and out perform the available rubber ones.

and:
Drink Indigenous! :laugh:
 
You'll still need to replace the Fulcrum Pin Bushings to do it right. Those do not come with a major suspension kit and they need to be brazed in.
Apple Hydraulics and Winners Circle both sell the metal threaded bushings. Apple will provide a turnkey replacement send them the A-Arms and 5 days later new brazed in bushings and painted / straightened A Arms come back. Peter C can ream the kingpin bushings for you.

I tried with my MAPP Torch to unbraze and replace the threaded bushings. It takes some technique to do. I gave up and used my credit card as a great tool for this job.
 
mrsprite said:
I have poly in my Bugeye and love it. I don't notice a rough ride, but it probably is rougher than a stock Bugeye (then again, my Bugeye is far from stock). I have had to replace the trunnion bushings though......the hole got wallowed out after a few years of use......this is my only real complaint, but I drive my car pretty hard so I really can't blame the bushings.

I can blame them. And do. And I see lots of cracked A-frames having used them. If you insist on poly (as opposed to properly made rubber (not all are equal))go with the SuperPro from OZ.

Peter C

(Dr. E. Even more "indigenous" to me is www.aleassylum.com "Brewed in Madison Fermented in sanity.")
 
Peter, where does one get these "properly made rubber" products?

I'm only shying away from rubber due to stories of poor product, I am guessing the rubber bushes in my car are original so they lasted a long time.
However the rubber bushes you could get in the 60's and 70's are not the same as what you can get now from the usual suspects.
 
I, and other vendors, CAN get Quinton-Hazel lower inner bushings. Part number Y-9. The upper outer, Y-16, are being a bit more difficult to source. Q-H don't seem to be making them. Some of us who find most poly abhorrent are working on it. But, as the uppers are infinitely easier to change, I would still opt for short lived rubber than any red or black poly.

I'm working on a demonstration of the differences.

Peter
 
Peter, check your PM.
 
I thought these things cracked control arms with rubber too. I have one that cracked. I have replacement arms w/ a union jack and says " a British reproduction". Are those decent arms?
 
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