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Tips

Front brakes are sticking

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Brake pedal looks okay. It has very minor movement if I lift up on it.

I tried testing the hydraulics by loosening the bleeder screw while applying the brakes -- the brakes did seem to loosen up, but not all the way. Thought maybe I'd get lucky and I put the new hoses on anyway, but there's still too much friction. Much less, as I can actually turn the wheels now, but obviously there shouldn't be any. Maybe I'm having multiple issues?

I checked the pistons and it seemed like the "inner" piston was a lot harder to compress than the outer one on both calipers. I didn't notice any visible rust, but I'm not sure if that really means anything.

So at this point I'm leaning towards picking up some new calipers unless there's something else I can try?

Thanks again everyone for helping the noob. :smile:
 
mgless said:
unless there's something else I can try?
Click to expand...

Yes, if you can turn the wheels and you have replaced the hoses - go out and drive before you get anything new. Give them a chance to seat and work. If they are still sticking then go to the next step.
 
also if you put the brake light swicth to far in the peddle dose not go all the way down and only alittle break fluid leaks back to the master.

steve
 
The calipers are very easy to rebuild. Especially if you use this brake grease. Coat the cylinder walls with that stuff and they will never stick again.
 
Looks like all I needed to do was drive it.
It was pretty loud backing out the driveway, but after a half block of turning and braking it settled down. Proceeded to put about 50 miles on it with no problems.

So... thanks!

The new rear end was very noticeable. I went from a 4.2 to a 3.9 and the 1098 engine was much less "peppy" in acceleration. I would be interested to know what the RPMs are doing, but my tach isn't working unfortunately...
 
mgless said:
Looks like all I needed to do was drive it.
It was pretty loud backing out the driveway, but after a half block of turning and braking it settled down. Proceeded to put about 50 miles on it with no problems.

So... thanks!

The new rear end was very noticeable. I went from a 4.2 to a 3.9 and the 1098 engine was much less "peppy" in acceleration. I would be interested to know what the RPMs are doing, but my tach isn't working unfortunately...
Click to expand...

Glad to hear- it's often the simple stuff. so what's up with the tach?
 
I'm honestly not sure. It hasn't work since I bought the car so many years ago... I've always had more pressing projects to really dig into it.

The ignition light does work, but the actual tach does not.

Does this look right?

main.php
 
We need to see a picture from the other side of the back- it is the green and the white wires that matter.
BillM
 
The black ground wires should be attached to one of the mounting studs. Where you have them attached now should be a Nylon block with the ignition wires wrapped around it, a flat metal strap bent into a U shape with sharp corners . The ends of the U should make contact with the 2 metal tabs coming out of the cavity to for an inductive loop. All of this is held on with a flat washer and nut.
 
startech47 said:
The black ground wires should be attached to one of the mounting studs. Where you have them attached now should be a Nylon block with the ignition wires wrapped around it, a flat metal strap bent into a U shape with sharp corners . The ends of the U should make contact with the 2 metal tabs coming out of the cavity to for an inductive loop. All of this is held on with a flat washer and nut.
Click to expand...

Agree, but don't know where you could get the block and strap. See you're in Madison Wis. so wonder if Peter C at World Wide Auto might have something lying around. I think the Moss catalog shows the arrangement when they discuss cahnging polarity of the tach.

Kurt.
 
Saw Peter C at lunch time and asked about the tach. He had a few tachs in the shop, but none from a MkIII. He also showed me the picture in the Moss catalog, so at least I know what I'm looking for now.
 
Keep your eye open on e-bay. I have some but none I could spare at this time. Consider swapping the guts out of a later tach. The early ones were not all that compatible with electronic ignitions and tended to not be all that accurate when they get some age on them. I'll bet there is a tech article on the swap somewhere.

Kurt.
 
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