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Just heard from a couple of Triumph club members here who are having trouble getting a TR3 to run properly. They say it wont run unless the choke is pulled out and then the plugs foul. (I can see why the plugs would foul with the choke pulled out.:chargrined: They are going to try different plugs next? Anyone have any ideas on the best way way to proceed to isolate the problem?
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TR2/3/3A Friends TR3 has carb issues?
- Thread starter karls59tr
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charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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Karl,
By vacuum leaks I would point out the throttle shafts as a possible source. It seems small but does have the ability to really screw things up. To test for this with the car running,as slow as one can get it to idle, use some carb cleaner and spray it at the ends of the throttle shafts on each carb. If the engine speeds up a bunch you are getting air into that area. The more it speeds up the worse the problem is. The fix is to have the throttle shaft or shafts replaced and likely have a bushing inserted to repair the worn area in the carb body. I found on my TR3B that only the rear shaft was worn.
By vacuum leaks I would point out the throttle shafts as a possible source. It seems small but does have the ability to really screw things up. To test for this with the car running,as slow as one can get it to idle, use some carb cleaner and spray it at the ends of the throttle shafts on each carb. If the engine speeds up a bunch you are getting air into that area. The more it speeds up the worse the problem is. The fix is to have the throttle shaft or shafts replaced and likely have a bushing inserted to repair the worn area in the carb body. I found on my TR3B that only the rear shaft was worn.
STeve 1958
Jedi Hopeful
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Different plugs is a waste of time unless you know the plugs are bad. "TR3" and "Carburetor trouble" are synonymous. They may need a rebuild kit to replace the washers. The cork washers only last so long.
Rule of thumb is to check everything else, valve gap, timing, vacuum leaks, then tune up the carburetors and then rebuild the carburetors if needed.
Rule of thumb is to check everything else, valve gap, timing, vacuum leaks, then tune up the carburetors and then rebuild the carburetors if needed.
The old story was-- the problem with your SU carbs is your Lucas ignition-- But after suggesting that, my experience is the choke does not full return to off position causing the fouling; it only takes a little on the jet like a 1/16 or less of an inch of not closing to through the whole system off, and that can be difficult to see. What I do is reach underneath and push the jet back before I start messing with things.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Very first thing I would check is jet centering. Lowering the jets can reduce binding even if they are off-center. Lift each piston in turn and let it fall (engine off, choke off). They must land with a distinct click.
Then I would probably try disconnecting the choke linkage, and adjusting each jet by hand to the leanest position that will keep the engine running. Run the engine that way until it is fully warm, continuing to lean the mixture as it warms.
Then I would probably try disconnecting the choke linkage, and adjusting each jet by hand to the leanest position that will keep the engine running. Run the engine that way until it is fully warm, continuing to lean the mixture as it warms.