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TR6 Fresh rebuild gone bad!!!!!!!

moneypit6

Freshman Member
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I dropped my tr6 off at a shop for engine rebuild among other things. 7 1/2 months later I get my car back. First off,,,,the clutch is squeezing when the pedal is push down. So I called the shop owner,,,,he tells me it's a brass washer/bushing that takes time to wear in. I'd say it's the throw out bearing.
secondly,,,,,I kept a close eye on the engine oil level. This past Sunday with 388 miles on it the oil was in between the marks on the dip stick,,,,so I take a drive,,,upon my return home,,,I have put about another 150 miles on the tr6 , I check the oil once again,,,,,it took a full quart to fill up to the spot on the dip stick . Now, I'm no expert,,,but,, a fresh engine in my mind should not burn a quart of oil in 150 miles. Feeling somewhat angry to say the least.
i work hard for my pay cheque....and paid one third my years salary for the repairs on my car. Yeah,,,it's fair to say I'm alittle more than upset at this point .
 
Do you live near Scarborough...I have a friend there that has a very nice TR250 and is very knowledgeable on TR's, and may be able to advise you.
 
I wouldn't sweat the oil burn if the car only has 500 miles on it...although I might take a look at the crankcase breather system to make sure it's not building back pressure or sucking oil into it at highway speeds.
 
What shop did you take it to?

Cheers
Tush
 
My friend took his 1953 MK7 Jag engine to a shop for rebuild at $1000s. 500 miles later oil was gushing everywhere. And then he broke his supposedly rebuilt 4- speed. Shop had engine for a year. Tranny shop had trans a month. I repulled engine and tranny, rebuilt engine for $736 in parts, no labor fees, did all the old fashion hand work and found another tranny and kept main housing and redid tranny and rebuilt the carbs that a former Jag mechanic rebuilt backwards and left leaking. All this in 4 months. Now has over 800 miles and running great. I have retorqued the head twice so far. It is another watch who you get to do your rebuilds. No, I no longer do it professionally.
 
What shop did you take it to?

Cheers
Tush

hello tush...
i believe you know the shop,,,maybe you have bought parts from him? In your neighbourhood?
I did manage to drive to the show this past Sunday. I was parked beside Elin, loved his car,,,so glad he is enjoying all his hard work.
Take care,,,
 
Well, you're up to that 500 mile mark....many of us think that's time to retorque the head, which also necessitates resetting the valve lash...After that's done, I think I'd want to do a compression test.
Although the piston rings may not be fully bedded, I think I'd want to know the compression.
It would be nice to have the same shop do it with you standing there observing...but if you'd rather not go back to the shop, at least video the compression test. You may need that.
 
Well, you're up to that 500 mile mark....many of us think that's time to retorque the head, which also necessitates resetting the valve lash...After that's done, I think I'd want to do a compression test.
Although the piston rings may not be fully bedded, I think I'd want to know the compression.
It would be nice to have the same shop do it with you standing there observing...but if you'd rather not go back to the shop, at least video the compression test. You may need that.


I reset the gap on the rockers the other night
3 were way too big , the rest were so tight I couldn't get my .010 gauge in.
ill retorque the head this coming weekend.
and do a compression test......there is no way I will take my car back to that shop....but a great idea to video tape it,,,and that I shall,,,thank you
 
You're welcome.
The reason I said re-torqueing the head necessitates resetting the valve lash is because you'll have to remove the rocker shaft assembly in order to get a straight shot at 7 of the nuts.
I know there's crowsfoot or the like; but for accuracy, I think you'll have to be directly above the nut with a socket.
 
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