"French polishing" lacquered wood?

[NutmegCT]

Would anyone have hands-on experience with French polishing an old lacquer finish on wood?

In my case, French polish = hand rubbing a mixture of shellac, alcohol, and a mild (e.g. olive) oil to resurface the old finish.

There are many websites with instructions, but none seem to agree on the basics of application, and don't seem to reply to questions. So I'm looking for someone who has actually done it.

Thanks.
Tom M.

 

[rossco]

I've always folded a small pad of soft cloth and applied the finish sparingly in as many coats to suit. Let dry and buff between coats. You'll see the results as you go and you'll know when you're finished(heh-heh) by the final result. A very fine wet/dry sandpaper soaked in the oil will level any small high spots or grain lines.

 

[NutmegCT]

Rossco - thank you sir!

After making the pad, could you explain how you get the shellac on it? Dip, drip, etc. Do you use any alcohol on the pad, or any oil? If I just use shellac on the pad, and nothing else, it "sticks" on the surface and I can't rub it smooth.

I appreciate the comment about sanding with oil; I was just using the dry paper to smooth out wrinkles, etc.

Thanks.
Tom M.

 

[Gliderman8]

When I refinished the walnut dash in my TR6 after multiple coats of spar urethane I polished it with Rotten Stone and a wet rag. Hand polishing brought out a mirror like finish.
I suggest you take some scrap wood and give them all a coat of your preferred finish then try multiple polishing methods to find out which one you like.

 

[rossco]

I owned a shop where we worked with fine antiques imported from France and England. At that time there was a supplier of finishes called Star Chemical. I bought French Lac from them. They are no longer in business. Mohawk Furniture Supply may have a French Lac that will take you out of your home prepared finish thus taking some of the guesswork out. (directions of usage) Our customers generally preferred a satin sheen for their pieces so we avoided urethane based products but glossy may be the look you prefer.

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks Rossco.

After making the pad, could you explain how you get the shellac on it? Dip, drip, etc. Do you use any alcohol on the pad, or any oil? If I just use shellac on the pad, and nothing else, it "sticks" on the surface and I can't rub it smooth.

Tom M.

 

[BigGreen]

To seal wood, make a shellac solution, dissolve the flakes in ethanol or denatured alcohol (96% - 98%). The 'shellac: alcohol' ratio depends on the application. So you can make a less or more concentrated varnish yourself according to your needs.

For an average, usable solution (sealing only), dissolve 1 to 2 parts shellac in 3 parts alcohol (measured by volume). This amounts to about 125 - 300 grams of shellac per liter of alcohol.

For sealing stubborn bleeding wood, you can make a somewhat stronger solution, for example 360 grams to a liter of alcohol, or apply an extra layer of shellac.

Method:
Put the required amount of alcohol in a clean glass jar with a lid. Add the measured amount of shellac, close tightly with the lid and shake the mixture from time to time. After a few hours all flakes will have dissolved (a large amount may take longer). Pour the mixture (if necessary) through a (paint) sieve or pantyhose into a clean sealable jar and it is ready for use.

Apply:
Shellac can be applied with a brush. Sanding in between is normally not necessary.

Tools:
It is best to clean your brush with alcohol. You can also use a simple flat brush, which you can throw away after use.

I would not use oil. Ethanol evaporates, oil does not.

 

[NutmegCT]

BR - thanks for the details. I've got the shellac already mixed and ready to go.

I'm not *finishing* a new piece - I'm restoring an old piece, already covered with shellac that's got some areas that are wrinkled or bumpy.

I've sanded the shellac smooth, and now need to rub in a smoothing coat of shellac. So I think brushing it on won't accomplish the task. Instead, it'll need to be rubbed in. That's a labor intensive job for sure.

So my question is: how to put the shellac on the rubbing pad (poured on, dipped in, or dripped, etc.), and whether or not to use alcohol in the mix to help soften the old shellac as the new coat is rubbed in, and/or a drop or two of a "rubbing oil" like olive oil to prevent the pad from sticking. Several websites refer to the pad, the shellac, the alcohol, and the rubbing oil - but they don't say how to actually use it.

Thanks.
Tom M.

 

[BigGreen]

You have sanded it smooth, that's OK.
The mix you made should be thin (solve dry shellac in alcohol), not sticky like paint.
If thin enough, it won't stick and apply evenly.

Applying with a brush has the advantage that the liquid is evenly distributed.
Then spread with an applicator / pad and rub out. Stop rubbing when it sticks and let dry
Take some time to dry, and repeat. ....

After drying you can make it shine further by finishing.

 

[NutmegCT]

a-HA! You've shown me the problem. I made the shellac too concentrated (thick).

Also, take a look at these two videos:

They're the most helpful videos I found - after you suggested my mixture wasn't thin enough.

You can see the project in the last few photos here:

Alexandre harmonium

33 new items · Album by nutmegct

photos.app.goo.gl

Back to work!
Thanks.
Tom M.