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Frame "restoration"

Popeye

Obi Wan
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What is the best way to restore a decent frame?

The frame on my TR4A has some surface rust, but fundamentally is solid. (IRS frame on a solid axle car.) few ideas:

Give it to someone else to sandblast and topcoat, either with paint or powder. Or dip and e-coat (more expensive).

Or I could do it myself. I would scrape off the grease and wire-wheel the loose stuff off. Then paint it with Rustoleum, POR-15 or the Eastwood system.

Regardless of method, I'm thinking to fill the inside of the frame with Waxoyl.

I am tending towards the POR-15 product (including the prep steps), although some internet discussion suggests it is critical to apply it correctly.

Thoughts?

A few past forum discussions:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?58078-POR-15-use-on-interior-floor-pans
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?15325-Is-POR-15-any-good
 
I have been using the Eastwood Chassis Encapsulater. Comes in different size cans. I opted for the spray can with an extension hose for internal spraying of rockers and frames. Used on my Jag sub frame and am very happy with the coating. I used a scope to see afterwards and coverage was excellent. Can be top coated, but not necessary if hidden from UV. Getting ready to use POR-15 on my floorboards. Waiting for more responses.
 
I've ordered the POR15 process parts, as well as the Chassis Encapsulator for the insides of the frame. I'll let all know how it turns out. If lady luck likes me, it might even be next weekend... (Lady Luck generally does not like me :smile:)
 
I had my frame blasted and then put epoxy primer on the bare metal. I did not think I could scrape or sand down to bare metal on my own. I then sanded the primer and painted with 3 coats of Urethane one stage paint. Only 2 years but no rust so far.

Jerry
 
Thanks all for the discussion.

I've decided I will sandblast the frame. This weekend I spent a day cleaning the frame, wirebrushing the loose rust, and trying to get all the dirt out of the nooks and crannies. I must have had, essentially, asphalt in the t-shirt section: a thick mass of oil and gravel that I had to chip out with a scraper and rubber mallet!! At the end of a long day, I decided there is no way to really remove all the crud out of all the many nooks and crannies. And, there are parts of the frame where the original paint still was stuck on - and I do not believe POR15 sticks well to painted surfaces. (Again, easy to remove paint on the flat surfaces, not so easy in the corners.)

I did weld on the frame reinforcement bits to the front suspension mounts.

Any recommendations for a sandblaster in the greater Pittsburgh region?
 
Look for a powder coat operation as the sandblaster will be close by. I use a guy about a mile from me for both , I'll never sandblast anything that big again - $150.
 
To follow up on this thread, I have found a place that will blast and epoxy prime my frame. I will topcoat, either with Rustoleum or, with a product recommended by my local Sherwin Williams store. (Primer is SW Macropoxy 646. There may be benefits to using same brand paint??) For those interested, the outfit is Envirosafe on the west side of Pittsburgh, total cost will be 350. (Frame, rear leaf spring front mounts, front radiator protector and the center motor mount.)
 
Look for a powder coat operation as the sandblaster will be close by. I use a guy about a mile from me for both , I'll never sandblast anything that big again - $150.

Yup, I went through several bags of black beauty before I gave up and sent it out to the pros.
Tom
 
looks gorgeous!
 
While not quite as far along (nor as gorgeous) as Paul's frame (his car frame, get your mind out of the gutter), I have a beautiful primed frame!


IMG_8153.jpgIMG_8154.jpg
 
While not quite as far along (nor as gorgeous) as Paul's frame (his car frame, get your mind out of the gutter), I have a beautiful primed frame!


View attachment 42742View attachment 42743

Boy they do have a complicated frame on them. After priming, I painted mine with Martin Senior "Tuff Coat". It flows nice, not super fast drying and looks nice when finished. It appears to be quite resistant to stone chips. Painted almost 4 years ago, it still looks like new. I would certainly use it again. PJ

 
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