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Frame Flex

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Since my car is on jack stands (that way I won't have happen to me like what happened to Brosky, unless a meteor strikes my garage) and the rear stands were set right in front of the spot where the swing arm attaches to the frame. Noticed that my doors were sticking. Took a measurement at the top of the door-fender gap, moved the jack stands to behind the axle and re-shot a measurement. Woof! .136" difference! That is a lot of flex, and yes my frame is solid with no rot or rust. Sure would like to weld in some corner braces there.
 
If one were to consider doing that, it would have to be done under ideal conditions, in that you would have to make sure that every single point of the car was level and that all alignments were dead on the money before welding anything in place.

If I were to do it, I would have all new body mounts in place so as to make sure I wasn't compensating for a bad mount when I welded a brace onto a frame that was twisted a bit to make up for a worn or missing mount.

The Ratco frame project is all done in jigs with new steel sections that are squared and cut to fit a squared and aligned jig. We are dealing with 30 plus year old metal that can become rusted, thinned and fatigued over time.

This is not to say that it's a bad idea, but one best performed by a shop with ample frame measuring equipment. The last thing that you want is to have one side of the car slightly higher than the other or tracking sideways going down the road.

JMHO......

EDIT:

And Bill, the Weather Channel is calling for meteor showers over the deep south this week. Be very careful in there...
 
I always thought that having some flex in the frame helped the car hug the curves.
 
Frame flex is a charecteristic of all TRs. it's not due to rot or damage. they were like that new.
Pauls got it nailed. Bracing can be done, but must be done correctly or things can be bad.
One of my Favorite authors, B.S. Levy (The Last Open Road) gave, what I feel to be the best description of the TRs frame from a racers point of view where that flex becomes the most apparent.
He said "The frame of a TR has the torsional rigidity of a soggy pizza crust."
It really dosen't hurt the cars in any way, unless you are pushing extremes, so really I'd just leave it be. Your going to spend lots of time and money on an issue that's really not an issue for an everyday road car.
 
Dang, just thought I would ask. Now I am gonna have to go to confession.
 
Someone in our club once commented that he learned not to hang his arm too far down along the door gap while driving as he got a real good pinch.
 
As Tom says. NORMAL. I had mine on stands for 4 years where I couldn't even close the doors.
Note to self. Make sure doors are CLOSED before jacking!
 
I don't think I've ever seen a (mostly stock) Triumph whose frame didn't flex or sag a little bit. It's part of the design, I assume.

It's hard to determine what degree of sag is acceptable. Sag of more than 1/2 inch or so (which would seriously pinch the doors shut) may be excessive and warrant professional diagnosis. Having said that, however, I've seen plenty of Triumphs with that degree of sag run for thousands of miles with no problem. I don't think I'd want to race/autocross/thrash a car like that, tho'. If unacceptable sag is found, the frame may be repaired. This should be attempted only by experts, though.

You can also carefully inspect the frame for rust/weakness by going over every inch of the frame with lots of lighting, tapping vigorously with a hammer, and a very close visual inspection. This isn't an exact science, but it may uncover serious defects in the frame.

Frame damage is something to look out for when buying an LBC. I got burned once on a GT6 with a bent (front) frame, it cost $1600 to pull it straight. Closer inspection would have detected it, but the car was otherwise very nice and it passed an alignment test, etc. The giveaway was the front suspension was shimmed all the way out to the right to compensate for about 1 1/2" of a bent frame. I shoulda seen it, but was too busy drooling over the car. The "professional" alignment folks didn't catch it, either. Finally, a Triumph guru (Joe Hash of Joe Hash Triumph, Ltd. near here) showed it to me.

Buyer beware: a close inspection can often uncover frame damage/rot. But sometimes not. :cryin:
 
A lot of things start sagging when they get old. That is just the way things are.
 
Brosky said:
The Ratco frame project is all done in jigs with new steel sections that are squared and cut to fit a squared and aligned jig. We are dealing with 30 plus year old metal that can become rusted, thinned and fatigued over time.
Click to expand...

Hey Paul, just wonderin' how much does a Ratco frame cost for a TR-6??

I think they sell frames for most TRs, right?
 
I'm really trying to avoid looking at that page right now..........
 
I'd had limited dealings with them but they were GREAT to work with.

From their page...

RATCO FRAME PRICE LIST
CH01-2-3 SERIES
STANDARD FRAME FOR TR4A (IRS), TR5/250,TR6............................$3250.00


STANDARD FRAME FOR TR, 2, 3, 4, 4A SRA......................................$2850.00

FRAME FINISH:FRAMES ARE SHIPPED UN-FINISHED UNLESS A FINISH IS PURCHASED

ELECTROSTATIC POWDER COAT FINISH................................................$600.00

RUSTPROOFING OF TUBING INTERIOR

WITH PARAFFIN RUST INHIBITOR........................................................$150.00

FOAM FILL ALL CAVITIES...................................................................$200.00

SUSPENSION UPGRADES

1: SHOCK iIN COIL CONVERSION........................................................$300.00

2: TUBE SHOCK CONVERSION BRACKETS (SHOCKS NOT INCLUDED)
MODEL# TCB..................................................................................$100.00

3: TUBE SHOCK MOUNTING BRAKETS WITH KONI BRAND
ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS MODEL# TCBK-03.............................................$360.00

4: TUBE SHOCK BRAKETS WITH MONROE BRAND
SHOCK ABSORBERS MODEL# TCBK-02................................................$200.00

5: REAR SWAY BAR KIT WITH MOUNTING HARDWARE MODEL# RSBK..........$190.00
(must be ordered with shock in coil conversion)

6: FRONT SWAY BAR KIT WITH MOUNTING HARDWARE MODEL# FSBK.........$160.00
 
Wish I hadn't read this thread and seen that RATCO website.
To quote Tinster "Something else for me to worry/obsess about!"
 
Aw! C'mon! It's only money! Why leave it for the kids to fight over? Spend it all and have a ball!!! (wink) LOL!
 
That page does look awfully interesting, but I don't think that I need it. I really hope that I don't need it.
 
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