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Ol' Fella

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Unless I'm doing something wrong, there seems to be no heading for Ford Cars. I've tried the search facility, but no go. I know Ford, are essentially American, but it surely there the some British built items.

Could someone lead me by the nose, to any such forum.

Steve.:smile:
 
Ol' Fella said:
Unless I'm doing something wrong, there seems to be no heading for Ford Cars. I've tried the search facility, but no go. I know Ford, are essentially American, but it surely there the some British built items.

Could someone lead me by the nose, to any such forum.

Steve.:smile:
Click to expand...

Hi, Steve, and welcome!

As there is no specific forum for English Fords, you've actually posted in the appropriate spot.

What model(s) do you have? Post pictures, if you can.

:cheers:
Mickey
 
Sadly no pictures. All destroyed in a flood, together with so much else.
The car in question, which was sold on 14 years ago, which was a 1967, Ford Corsair, 2000e. V4. (a mis-firing V8. ;):D). When I bought it, it was sat on wire wheels, which looked really cool, but not in too good a condition. I found some original wheels, but never fitted them. I spent some cash to renovate the wires.

I don't own any classic cars, but have had few over time.

Steve.:smile:
 
Hi Steve and welcome to the forum. Yes there were many Fords built in England. There were not so many sold OSOTP but I have one, a 1948 Prefect, fairly well documented in the link in my signature below. Although there is no forum specific to Fords at BCF, just "Other British Cars", I still find it an interesting and informative place. You might also check out https://enfostuff.com. It is not nearly as active as BCF but it is a forum dedicated to English Fords and has some very knowledgeable people.
 
I had two Corsairs - a 1500 2 door LHD GT (32 built),
& a 1500 Deluxe 4 door automatic.
I still have lots of models,brochures,manuals,etc. that
I'll probably sell off,when we get a house.
You might try the website below.

- Doug


www.enfostuff.com
 
Back in my (much) younger days here in Arizona, I owned a bunch of English Fords.
The first was an 1957 Anglia Escort. A small station wagon based on the Anglia.
The Anglia at the time was powered by a small 4 cylinder flathead that looked for all the world like a tiny Model A Ford's. It had a 3 speed floor shift transmission
It was a neat little car but it wasn't really happy driving on freeways for long distances.

The Escort was followed by a 1957 Consul. A nice, small mid-sized car that looked a lot like a 1955 US Ford. It was powered by a OHV 4 cylinder engine.

The Consul was followed by a 1959 Zephyr. Basically the same body as the Consul but powered by a OHV 6.

The Zephyr served me for several years but I replaced it with a 1962 Zodiac, the top of the line at that time.
Leather seats and automatic transmission, powered by a OHV 6 that was basically the same engine that powered my Zephyr.

This Zodiac had a totally different body, unlike anything made in the USA. They seem to show up often in the old "Avengers" TV shows in the background.

Finally, my English Ford days were spent driving a English Ford Cortina GT. It didn't have the Lotus engine but the 4 cylinder OHV engine and 4 speed transmission still had enough power to give it a sporting feeling.

I haven't driven one for years but I still have a soft place in my heart for those old English Fords.:encouragement:
 
I'm fighting a bit of a rough patch with my '68 Cortina GT. Hoping that a fuel pressure regulator will help. Went through a intermittent problem with the Luminition ignition, which I repeatedly diagnosed as fuel, now I think the Facet pump is overpowering the Twin Dellortos.
 
When you say "rough patch" are you speaking of just having a problem or are you saying the engine seems to be running rough at some particular speed?

If it is the former, without a better description of the problem there's not much I can offer.

If it is the latter, I don't know that adding a fuel pressure regulator will solve the problem.

Fuel pumps often will lose their ability to provide enough fuel pressure because of things like leaking valves, weakened springs due to old age, leaking diaphragms and the like but, they rarely will suddenly begin to provide higher flows or higher pressures. As the regulator is a limiting device that only limits the maximum pressure, unless your fuel pump is one of the rare ones, the regulator will not have anything to do.

Rough running can be caused by a leaking float bowl valve allowing too much fuel into the float chamber. This can happen if the valve seat is worn or because the gasket for the valve has developed a crack in it.
A float that has developed a leak which has allowed fuel to enter it can also allow too much fuel into the float chamber. These things can usually show up at an idle speed when the engine will run very rough. The rich air/fuel ratio will also show up as a build up carbon on the spark plug center electrode.

If the carburetors haven't been rebuilt recently a partially plugged jet can also cause the engine to run roughly under some conditions (and not others).
Running a good fuel system cleaner in the fuel and then running it thru the engine by driving quite a bit can remove any buildups on the jets. I like Chevron Techron but there are other cleaners that will also do the job.
Stick to name brand cleaners. Some of the off the wall brands are little more than diesel fuel or kerosene/coal oil that will do nothing except drain your bill fold.
 
XK4 said:
When you say "rough patch" are you speaking of just having a problem or are you saying the engine seems to be running rough at some particular speed?

If it is the former, without a better description of the problem there's not much I can offer.

If it is the latter, I don't know that adding a fuel pressure regulator will solve the problem.

Fuel pumps often will lose their ability to provide enough fuel pressure because of things like leaking valves, weakened springs due to old age, leaking diaphragms and the like but, they rarely will suddenly begin to provide higher flows or higher pressures. As the regulator is a limiting device that only limits the maximum pressure, unless your fuel pump is one of the rare ones, the regulator will not have anything to do.

Rough running can be caused by a leaking float bowl valve allowing too much fuel into the float chamber. This can happen if the valve seat is worn or because the gasket for the valve has developed a crack in it.
A float that has developed a leak which has allowed fuel to enter it can also allow too much fuel into the float chamber. These things can usually show up at an idle speed when the engine will run very rough. The rich air/fuel ratio will also show up as a build up carbon on the spark plug center electrode.

If the carburetors haven't been rebuilt recently a partially plugged jet can also cause the engine to run roughly under some conditions (and not others).
Running a good fuel system cleaner in the fuel and then running it thru the engine by driving quite a bit can remove any buildups on the jets. I like Chevron Techron but there are other cleaners that will also do the job.
Stick to name brand cleaners. Some of the off the wall brands are little more than diesel fuel or kerosene/coal oil that will do nothing except drain your bill fold.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mr. XK. It has not been running that well lately. Back in about 1994, I put a set of Dellorto side drafts on it. It was my daily driver for years after that. In about '99, It burned a piston at a racing school at Portland International Raceway. I had Jay Ivy rebuild it, with forged pistons, big valves, 1680cc, Kent 244 Cam. It has been autocrossed a lot, and quite a number of track days. I wanted a pump gas engine, so it only made 135 hp on their dyno. Just 9.5 to 1 compression. It is the Uprated full Heron type head engine. In the last couple years, it got a weird intermittent condition where it wouldn't run well. Since then, I've put on a Facet fuel pump, a new coil, and a new recurved Lucas type distributor from JAE with a Luminition electronic ignition in it. It previously had a Lucas / Aldon distributor, and I had put a Luminition in that at some point. After those changes, It runs rich and fouls plugs. I'm hoping that the fuel pressure reglator will address that. I had to rebuild the Dellortos a few years ago. They are not the problem now, I don't think. I'm also having problems with the tach fuel gauge and temperature gauge. I've replaced the temp sensor and voltage stabilizer, but may have got a bad stabilizer, or a bad ground on it. I've replaced those a couple times over the years. If I do it again, I'm mounting it to the steel of the dash, not to the back of the speedometer. That access is a PITA. I have replaced all gauges with known good ones. It still runs pretty fast for a street Cortina, but it doesn't like to idle for a long time any more. I believe that the fuel pressure is too high. I want to keep the electric fuel pump, because I kike that I can pull the wire on the relay and run the float bowls and choke really dry.
 
I hope you didn't feel like I was talking down to you. Whenever I answer a question to someone I don't know on a forum that deals with vehicles , I assume their automotive knowledge is somewhat limited.

That said, I still will suggest your exploring the possibility of a cracked gasket between the fuel float valve and the carburetor body.

These are often made from materials that can become brittle over the years. If this happens, a crack can develop between the inside and outside of the gasket.
Such a leak is easy to fix by installing a new, fresh gasket. I do not recommend using any sort of sealing compounds when they are going to be subjected to gasoline. Especially now, when gas/alcohol fuel mixtures are the only thing we can get. At least here in the USA.

My old motto is, first fix the simple things. Once they are checked and/or repaired, then, go to the more expensive/complicated possibilities.

As for electrical grounding, it never hurts to add a dedicated ground wire.
Corrosion, dirt and who knows what can get between hard mounted things like speedometers and the like and if it does they will no longer be self grounding.
 
Good call on the grounding. I'll recheck the float valve gaskets too. I think my Facet pump is putting out about 12 psi, which may be overwhelming the float valves. I rebuilt the carbs completely not that long ago. I also dropped a idle jet needle, and it isn't right. It may have damaged the jet on #3. Nobody seems to have idle mix needles like mine. What grounds do you suggest that I add? Last time I drove it was 1 week and a half ago. The tach surprisingly worked, for about 5 seconds.. Grounding and ease of access is why I an considering relocation of the the voltage stabilizer. It is mounted on the back of the speedometer, which is not easy to get to. I've also got the wrong voltage stabilized. This is two of them since I bought the car. This car drives pretty well. I finished second in my region in D Street Prepared back when. It once beat all the Porches at a Porsche Club autocross (There were a few guys there that could have beaten it, but they didn't show up). It was holding off a new Mustang Cobra R at PIR at the school when it burned the piston. It is a four door GT, not that common in the USA. I'm thinking I might drill and tap the intake manifold for synchronization of the carbs using my motorcycle synch tools, too. Doug, (Anglia GT), and I ran the autocross at the Portland ABFM a number of times and did pretty well. The four door was never beaten by an MG or Triumph. It was generally in the top 3 or 4 of the minis. There was a Sunbeam Alpine that was well driven and prepared. It always beat me. He had to use the tactic of out driving me to do it though. It was my daily through all that.
 
I recently put a Facet pump on my Prefect, rated a 4psi, the lowest available. If your is 12 then I would suggest replacing it.
 
Bayless said:
I recently put a Facet pump on my Prefect, rated a 4psi, the lowest available. If your is 12 then I would suggest replacing it.
Click to expand...

Seems to be working well now with the regulator discharge gauge showing 2.5. Turns out it is a 4 psi not a 12, as I stated. The regulator still seems to have fixed it.
 
Glad to hear you solved the problem.
 
Bayless said:
Glad to hear you solved the problem.
Click to expand...

I also fixed the temp gauge. New sender, and new voltage stabilizer. Confirmed that I need a new fuel sender. I have one from a Mustang that I think I can make fit. I don't know if the resistance is the same. Cleaning may possibly fix the original one. The radiator got a small leak. Closest repair shop is 100 miles away. I drove it every day for a week though, while I was in Oregon.
 
AngliaGT said:
Paul,

Are you in Maine now?
Please give me a call sometime.

- doug
Click to expand...

Hey, Doug. I'll give you a call. I'm working in Prospect Creek, AK. I worked the spring and most of the summer just south of Black Rapids, AK. Haven't been to Maine since January. I'm told that my Cortina there has the clutch frozen to the flywheel. I don't have cell service here.
 
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