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Follow-Up Horn Question

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Hey Guys,

First, thanks for the poop on horn grounding and fuses (I replaced the two American 30s with two American 15s).

The responses to my previous horn question lead me to this question: if one wire is the "in" wire and the other is the "out" wire, how can my problem be a "ground" problem?

Is the BRACKET supposed to be a ground? If so, can I run my new ground wire (that is doing nothing since it caught my car on fire) to the bracket mount?

My horns are mounted on a black block that looks like plastic. If it is, that sure as heck isn't a ground.

Let me know what you-all think. Heck, maybe I should ditch these horns and go get one at AutoZone like one of you recommended.

"Gordon"
 
The horn mounting does not provide a ground.

One wire is always hot... goes from the fuse block to one horn, then on to the other.

The other wire is a switched ground... becomes a ground when the horn button is pushed.
 
:iagree:
My guess is that it was just chance that they started working when you modified the "ground".

I fought a somewhat similar problem for a long time on my TR3A, which I usually wound up blaming on intermittent contacts in the horn button. Until I finally added a relay, and discovered that the problem still existed even when I bypassed the horn button. Eventually I found the real culprit : a "4-way" sleeve (female bullet connector) that was broken internally.
 
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