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fog lamps

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healyfan53

healyfan53

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Hi all,
I'm looking for lucas fog and driving old vintage lamps and also want to know what the best way to connect it to the machine.

Gilbert

Tyu

BT7 1961
 
I bought mine from eBay after watching for quite some time. Mine are genuine from the 1950's - for my 1956 Healey.

Bruce
 
Holden in the UK sells reproductions, but you could probably find something similar from an American vendor. I got a set on e-bay using a search for "Lucas SFT" set up to send me an e-mail whenever one was listed. I got a set of genuine ones for less than the cost of the reproductions....
 
Yep JW, that's probably the only way you will get an original set. The repos are no better than the Moss replicas and the repos say Lucas only because someone was wiling to pay the licensing fee to put the Lucas name on them. However, they lack the total definition---Keoke
 
Keoke said:
Yep JW, that's probably the only way you will get an original set. The repos are no better than the Moss replicas and the repos say Lucas only because someone was wiling to pay the licensing fee to put the Lucas name on them. However, they lack the total definition---Keoke
Click to expand...
keoke, i looked at a pair of repros. just last week, get this, "lucas" was misspelled. from a mutual friend perhaps? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif
 
My two cents;
Lin's diagram is good for fog lights which you want on all the time. If you wind up with driving lights you probably will want them to turn off when you change to low beams. Using the diagram as a reference, instead of connecting the wire from the switch to the fuse box, connect it to the high beam wire. That way when the high beams are on and the driving light switch is turned on, the driving lights will also be on. If you switch to low beams, your driving lights will automatically turn off. I just hooked up my driving lights over the weekend and that basically the way I did it.
Ed
 
Well that is one way to do it Ed. However, having the driving lights separate from the main lighting circuit serves as a backup in the case of a total headlamp failure or failure in the high beam circuit. Low beams on back roads and in fog just won't cut it--Fwiw--Keoke
 
I regularly use mine. I tried all three wiring approaches which is actually easy to do since all three types of power are accessable near the fuse box where the harness connects together with bullets. I just replaced the single barrel connector with doubles.

I have finally settled on having them tied into the highbeams since this is when I need them the most. I have them (spots) pointed slightly out to lightup the corners and sides of the road to see the deer and critters before they jump in front of me. Oncoming traffic causes me to keep switching them on and off thus having them tied to the higbeam circuit on the relay.

I suppose I could wire in yet another switch to change this behavior. But part of the point here was to not have to keep fumbling for dash switches on dark windy backroads.

Oh and I also had to replace my floor dimmer switch which was tired and scary with it's "dead spot". Lights would sometimes go out completely.
 
If you are not confused enough I will add yet another connection. I prefer the fog lights on with only the pilot lights (no high or low beams). High & low beams are white light and positioned too high with respect to the drivers eye. The higher white light source will reflect back to our very low driver position under thick fog conditions. This operation may not be totally legal in all states. I suggest yellow lenses, if you like that look, and aim them low. If you think you might want the combination pilot/fog lights then connect the fog switch to the switched hot for the lights (#7 on the lighting switch). You may tap into any of the red wires headed for the 4 pilot lights. The current draw of the light relay suggested above is very low and will not stress the wiring or the fusing of this lighting circuit. For operation of the fog lights the light switch can be in either pilot or pilot/headlamp position. The fog lights can also be on during hi or low beam operation. Here is a trick that can be used with any of the above connections. It is called a holding circuit. Picture a momentary switch (push button), back lit perhaps, with FOG written on the lens. This would be the only dash mounted hardware, W/O the need for a separate toggle switch. The operation is as follows: as long as the light switch is in either on position you can push the button to toggle the fogs on or off. When you turn off the main light switch all "are off". The fogs will re-set and the next time the main lights are turned on the fogs are off until the button is pushed. If you are interested in this connection I will modify the above diagram for your review.
Bob
 
Hi Bob


You said in your explanation "If you are interested in this connection I will modify the above diagram for your review."

I cannot see that diagram that you are talking about...


Thank anyway.

gilbert
 
I'd really like to see that diagram Bob!

Also - I want to know the best way to fit the lights to a BJ8. I was considering the bumper but I think it might be a bit flimsy and am considering a bar, welded to something solid underneath.

I'm very keen to hear peoples' advice on this and see any photos of what people have done.

Cheers

Rob
 
I have a badge bar mounted to the back of the bumper. It does wobble a bit with car vibration. Anything welded to the black bumper supports will probably bounce some. But they are solid.
 
Just a thought on how I did my fog lights on my BJ8. I mounted them on a badge bar, but they do bounce a bit. In wiring I replaced the panel light switch with a headlight switch, using the first position for the panel lights and the second for panel and fog lights. From that second position I then powered a relay located close to the fuse block. The relay took power from the hot side of the fuse block, then fused it, and fed the fog lights. This eliminated the chance of overloading the light circuit. Fog lights operate independent from the headlights. This, however, may not be legal in some states.
 
Hello Bob,

my feeling as far as fog or thick mist is to use main beams (high beams) and I ignore the reflected light. In my experience I can see objects sooner that way. Dip lights don't reflect as much but your depth of vision is reduced. I also think that low slung lights are totally useless as they give a very limited depth of view and their focus on other than billiard smooth roads is up and down with the undulations of the road.
I know a lot of people do not like the reflection but I'm happy with it.

Alec
 
I don't use them much even in this rural area but they are shut down when the high beams are on. They are not "fog" lights (amber) but "flame throwers". They are great for spotting bears and such from a distance.
I bought a chromed badge bar form AHspares but all the usual folks have them. They just bolt behind the over riders using the same hardware. The wireing I did is as Shorn did. Use a Napa relay and a fuse, you can wire through the dip switch, its easy.
 
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