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Flywheel -lighten it/aluminum/ or leave it

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Bruce_B

Bruce_B

Jedi Warrior
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Anyone out there running lightened flywheels on their engines? Looking for opinions on lightening the stock flywheel, or buying an aluminum one, or just leave it alone.

This is for a 1275 A engine for fast street use. As I've mentioned before I'm rebuilding it +40, Longman GT 7, head, CR about 9.5:1, Swiftune roller rockers and timing gear.

thanks...
 
And you can have a stock flywheel lightened, the specs are in the special tuneing book. Yep turns quicker, noticeable difference.
 
Thanks for the info, jack, Frank. And thanks for your work on the Ozarks. I might even get my wife to come along. Has any more info been posted on hotels...etc..?
 
Not yet, shortly. Heck we just got home, hehe.

Give us a few days.
 
I run a lightened flywheel and am happy with it.

Patrick
 
Thanks everyone. Just ordered an aluminum flywheel and its on its way. Should get my all my parts back from the machine ship next weekend.

Let the games begin! I'm counting on lots of good advice and positive energy while I'm building the engine. Oh yeah...almost forget I'll also need some warm weather - that garage is cold!
 
Engines go up quick, should not take too long at all. Paint everything good first.
 
Bruce,
this won't help you as you have already made your decision. Maybe someone else who comes across this post can benefit, however. 1500 flywheel while changing the starter ring gear I put it on a rotary table and drilled 3/4" holes at 15 deg. intervals. Have yet to drive the car as it is still apart waiting for the wife to stop spending the restoration budget before I get it. Maybe before this summer is over?
 
MGBlue,

Sounds for the info. Regarding the flywheel...just picked up a voicemail from the vendor about the order. Of course they're now closed until Monday.

Having a hard time getting this flywheel. Maybe I'll just have the machine shop lighten the stock flywheel for the 1275 and a new starter ring.

Good luck with your 1500 - keep us posted.
 
Bruce:

If ya need any help, I would be happy to come over.

Patrick
 
I really think if you can stop the order on the flywheel, do it. On the street you don't want that and you will be happier with a lightend one. You need the inertia of some weight for starting from a stop. Good luck on your motor! While in your engine comp., go ahead and clean it up and paint it. I didn't a few years ago and regretted it.
 
mgblue79 said:
Bruce,
I put it on a rotary table and drilled 3/4" holes at 15 deg. intervals.
Click to expand...

Did you weigh before and after? How much difference did it make?
 
JPSmit said:
mgblue79 said:
Bruce,
I put it on a rotary table and drilled 3/4" holes at 15 deg. intervals.
Click to expand...

Did you weigh before and after? How much difference did it make?
Click to expand...

Sadly, I forgot to weigh it beforehand and afterward it seemed pointless. I could take it off to weigh it. Someone out there should have an unmachined weight.
 
Assuming the area where the holes were drilled was .750" thick, the weight removed would be in the neighborhood of 2 lbs.
Too bad you had to go to the trouble of setting up the rotary table. I'd have just used coordinates. Much easier.
Jeff
 
Yes, that would have been much easier, but my friend's shop has no such thing. I did get to use a 1942 Kearney and Trecker to do the job. Not likely I'd get to use a vintage WWII mill any other time.
 
Pat,

Thanks for the offer. When it gets warmer I might take you up on the help.

I'll find out Monday if I can stop the order or not. I figure they can't get it otherwise why would they be calling me?

Bruce
 
mgblue79 said:
Not likely I'd get to use a vintage WWII mill any other time.
Click to expand...

I used to use a K/T of about the same vintage. Nice mill, and proves the old adage of "they don't build them like they used to". We had a 1938 Monarch lathe at work that was more accurate than the 1994 Nardini they bought to replace it. Big surprise!
Jeff
 
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