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floorpan prep -

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NutmegCT

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
Bronze
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Morning folks.

After pulling the carpets and padding, I find bits of the old padding still attached to the floorpan. I assume there is the remnant of some type of glue used to attach it long ago.

What should I use to soften and remove all that old glue/coating on the pans to allow me to scrape it off?

Thanks.
Tom
 
Re: floorpan prep - glue removal?

Hey Tom-

DPO Pedro was too cheap to purchase padding.
He glued the black K-mart carpet directly to the
metal floor pans. What a friggin' mess.

Since I was searching for rust, I used a paint stripper
to remove the floor pan paint. The household bonding
adhesive DPO Pedro used came right off with paint stripper.

In the Trades, we use regular old Xylol to quickly remove
conventional yellow bonding adhesive. Try it out but in a
very well ventilated area. I moved a large fan next to Crypty
when I was working with Xylol in the floor areas. Wear
protective gloves, Xylol penetrates skin in a heartbeat
and burns like the dickens.

Kerosene might also remove it.

I'm stripping Crypty's trunk area down to bare metal this
week. Cleaning the bare metal with Xylol!! Wendy got a bit
of a scare this morning when she went out to get the
newspaper. I was sitting in Crypty's trunk stripping paint
and said hello when she walked past. She liked to have a
heart attack at 6:30 AM. a voice coming from Crypty's
trunk!!

regards,

d
 
Re: floorpan prep - glue removal?

Tom,

I think 3M sells an adhesive remover as well that worked OK for me. My local auto parts store hade it in stock. Took a couple of passes however....
 
Re: floorpan prep - glue removal?

Duncan - thanks for asking. Local bodyshop said there would be a "couple weeks" downtime if they replaced the floorpans now, so ...

I'm doing a "rolling summer patch". Removed passenger side seat and rails, carpet, padding. Today I'm using paint stripper to get rid of remaining padding adhesive. Then spray phosphoric acid on rusty areas. Wait about 45 mins, then wipe off, put on more acid and leave it to dry. Then go drive the car if it's not raining!

Next day, cover entire floorpan with POR15 and dry overnight. On those rust pinholes, I'll put tape on the underside to serve as a "base" for the POR15; then after the topcoat, remove that tape and POR15 just that underside area also. Next I'll use some fiberglass on that small corner area where daylight pops through the larger holes, and POR15 again. As always, if anyone has thoughts on all this, please shoot 'em my way! I've never used fiberglass.

Add some heat insulation, then put back the carpeting and seat. If all goes well, I'll repeat the entire procedure for the driver side over the next week or two. When it's raining. The suggestions and plans of attack from you guys really saved the day. Had no idea how to approach all this, either for the long run or the short run.

Got new Kumho's yesterday, but also discovered I've got a bent wheel - so the front end wobble continues. Is there any secret or trick to buying a new wheel?

If anyone's interested in floorpan pics, I'll post some.

Thanks again.
Tom
 
Re: floorpan prep - glue removal?

Good Luck Tom,

Post many photos. They are always helpful with the
learning curve. I have no other TR6 I can go look at
to see how things should be. The photos here are
totally helpful to me in my attempt to get my car
functional and down off blocks. I'm sure other use
the photos for the same purpose. Education.

regards,

d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Re: floorpan prep

Step 2, after carpet, padding and loose dust/rust removed.

Coat rusty areas with phosphoric acid. Soak, wipe off. Coat again, soak, wipe off. Coat again, allow to dry. The whitish crystals you see will enhance POR15 ability to adhere to surface.
 
Re: floorpan prep

Hi Tom,

#1 I would suggest wiping the surface down slightly with thinners after the acid, and before paint. The phosphoric acid that I use explains that it should be wiped off, but that after wiping down, a galvanic-type protective coating is left that helps rust-protection and adhesion.

#2 rather than trying to paint Por15 over tape, I would suggest simply painting it onto the metal, and then immediately sticking f/glass patches anywhere they are needed. From there, you can always do a 'wet' coat on the top once the first coat sets up... and paint the underside as well.

Sounds like a good plan, though... and one that might reasonably delay floor replacement for some time, without 'really' bodging it.*

-Duncan

* For example, the '67 Volvo P1800 I bought when I was 16. Layers of newspaper, laid under the driver's side carpeting and floormat, with a healthy layer of undercoating from underneath, concealed a hole the size of my fist.
 
Re: floorpan prep

Hi there - just an FYI that you might want to remove the white residue from the Metal Ready (or similar acid).

There were some threads on this on another forum that tried it both ways (left the white coating and also removed) and ended up strongly recommended making sure the white coating was removed prior to paint application.

Just a thought, not an expert opinion although I ended up removing the white stuff before treating.
 
Re: floorpan prep

Ya know - I was wondering about the white residue. Thanks for suggesting that I wipe it off. Didn't know there was a strong recommendation to do that. The POR instructions say the phosphoric acid residue is needed to guarantee bonding, so I assumed you just leave it all on there after the phosphoric acid has dried.

Duncan - you mention "rather than trying to paint Por15 over tape, I would suggest simply painting it onto the metal, and then immediately sticking f/glass patches anywhere they are needed. "

As I've never worked with fiberglass, I have to ask - what are "patches"? I've seen the f/g cloth - is that what you mean by patch? If I just lay the cloth over wet POR-15, will that soften the cloth so it fits the curves and indentations? Then when it's hardened add another coat of POR-15?

Does "do a 'wet' coat on the top once the first coat sets up" mean taking more POR-15 and painting it on the dry f/glass cloth? Or does that just mean using the MEKP catalyst on the cloth and follow up with another POR coat?

Totally a novice at this - Maybe I need a step-by-step description. Thanks for your patience.

Tom
 
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