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Floorboard Repair Options

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71tr

71tr

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Working on my floorboards (TR6) and have the typical pinhole rust through in a few areas. Replacing the entire floorboard seems like overkill, I can live with a respectable alternative. Any suggestions?
 
I had the same situation. My fix was to buy 2 new Heritage floor boards and used them to replace 80% of my floors. I left a lip of a least 2" all the way around the front, side and tunnerl, left about 12" in the rear and from the tunnel to the front (where the tranny cover bolts) replace all that. Used a air-driven cutting disc to remove the old floor, overlapped the new one about an inch, Cleco-ed them together and MIGed the whole thing solid. A little body shultz and done deal.
 
Oh, and did one side at a time so there was no body sag. Did not affect my paint anywhere (except the floors).
 
My 1958 TR3A had a few small pin holes near the outside of the front of the passenger side floor, probably from rain leaking in. I used Tiger Hair - chopped strands of fiberglass in a resin base. I cleaned the area well, then used a plastic putty knife to smear over the pinholes. After it dried, I sanded it smooth and coasted it with paint. The resin dripped through the holes so I had to clip off the drips underneath.

If I ever decide to replace the entire floors, no harm from this quick and easy fix. You'd never know it had been repaired unless I told you.
 
If they are just pinholes, you might consider using POR-15.

I occasionally use something similar to what PeterK describes, except I use JB Weld for the resin and woven fiberglass mat. The result is very strong. I usually try to apply from the other side, though, as it's much easier to hide that way.

There's a pencil hole above the battery box that I need to slap a JB Weld patch on.
 
Uh, there is no such thing as "just pinholes" gentlemen. It means the metal in all the area is quite thinned out and weak. Usually working the area of the pinholes over with a high-powered rotary wire wheel on a right-angle grinder will show the damage to usually be very extensive. That is why I recommend the more drastic route. Unless you are fond of fiberglass-covered floor boards. My last TR6 had that and I was never happy with it. With a good set of Heritage floors, the job is not that horrible.
 
TR6BILL said:
Uh, there is no such thing as "just pinholes" gentlemen.
Click to expand...

Bill called my bluff, sure I like to call them pinholes but he's right once you start picking at the area it only gets worse. I like your idea of leaving a lip all the way round as that part of my floorboards is just fine.

Thanks for all the input guys.
 
He's right. You will chase "pinholes" across the whole thing. Iron lace.
 
Replacing the floor on my TR6 was something that had to be done. Pin holes?.... NO, POT HOLES.
The dumb PO had pop riveted sheet metal over the large holes and thought that would work...sheesh!
I will admit I was scared to do it, but in the end it turned out great.... just have to take your time.
 
Elliot,

Thanks for the pics, love that rotisserie. Looks like you can just roll it over when you need to work on it.
 
71tr said:
Elliot,

Thanks for the pics, love that rotisserie. Looks like you can just roll it over when you need to work on it.
Click to expand...

Thanks 71tr. It worked like a charm.... extremely easy to roll-over by myself. I cut two different angles on the plywood so the body would stop at 30 and 45 degrees. The whole thing cost about $50 for the lumber. 3/4" plywood and some 2x4's.
 
Nice job. Great thinking to get around a very expensive rotisserie.
 
Thanks Paul. The nice thing was that I passed it on to a guy who was just starting his TR resto. It's amazing how light weight the body is once striped of all the add-ons and freed from the chassis.
 
My brother-in-law owns 8 gliders, the first of which he built himself. All the others are German, or such. He has tried to get me up in one. It ain't gonna happen. Took my sons. They were thrilled. I was scared to death for them.......
 
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