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floorboard install question

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H

hottvr

Jedi Warrior
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Old floorboard completely removed and new one finally fits nice and snug. What should I treat the beams and sides(near tunnel and sills) with or at all before welding in the floorpan. POR15, rattle can primer, ospho, or somehing else?
Must have put that pan in and removed it a hundred times to get a good fit.
Rick
 
I've stopped welding them in - I now glue them in with FUZOR....saves hours of work!
 
Checked into Fusor glue and seems like a great product. Do you own the gun to apply it? Did you use fast,med,or slow curing? What did you use to clamp floorboard or just put weight on it?
A friend offered to weld it in if I had it completely ready but I'm still open to Fusor. Tried doing a google search by Fuzor and came up empty. I think it's spelled Fusor.
Rick
 
Oh, just remembered why I posted. What do I treat the bare metal with before installing the floorboard?
Rick
 
Either way you go, it requires clean bare metal for a good weld or bond. After you have the pans installed POR-15 it.

FWIW I "glued" mine in too... secured with pop-rivets. All they were for was to hold it until the epoxy cured.
 
The way I attach something like a floor pan is to drill 1/4 holes around the outside of the pan and set it on the tabs I left from the old one. Then I can spot weld throught the holes to anchor it to the existing metal. Then I weld the pan in place. I would use a good primer and paint the weld after any cosmetic (grinding, etc). Anything painted close to the welding will heat up and oxdize (burn) so I try not to put too much there. Hope this helps.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Tony, before you buy one, I'm probably going to buy one next week, and a buddy is shipping me one from Kent Automotive,. I'll have 2.

I need one next week, and won't get the other until later in the week. If NAPA won't take the one back (I'll come up with some story /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif), then I'll let you have it for half price.
 
Good deal, Tim!
 
On the MG that I purchased, the owner had installed new floorboards with rivets only. Job looks real good but I am not sure if just the rivets are strong enough to hold them but now I read where guys are using Fusor to install the boards. I was going to try and drill some holes so we could spot weld the pans but do you think the rivets will be strong enough and I can just leave them alone (hopefully, not a job I am looking forward to)
Thanks...
 
First: Welcome to the Forum!

If you've an MGB and if the PO left the "lip" around the edges, the rivets are likely okay to locate the pans... that said, there would be questions about sealing them to prevent rust developing and whether the rivets were close enough together to keep the chassis from excess flexing. I'd be inclined to say: bead weld them all the way 'round or pull the rivets, clean the "mating surfaces" and Fusor or Panel Bond 'em in.


Just my tuppence-worth.
 
Grind/sand the edges to bare metal. Weld/glue the pan in place. Seal with 3M seal sealer (comes in a caulk tube). Paint/treat with topcout of choice. Some use POR15, I use etching primer and acrylic urethane paint.
 
I'm inclined to agree with the guys above just because of sealant issues....however, pop rivets about every 6" around edge of floor (if it is sitting on a lip of the old floor as Doc said) & across the support members underneath the floor is, IMHO, adequate & strong enough.

That said, its not hard to drill the pop rivets out & weld or FUSOR the floors in place

Then again, you could just add sufficient pop rivets to what you've already got & get up underneath & seal with some 3M seam sealer

Or you could leave the rivets in place & weld them in place.
 
IIRC mine took a tube "set" per pan/side. Always better to have MORE than ya need, as opposed to: "Oh SNAP!" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
Yep, about a tube per...where'd you get that deal? My local supply house didn't mention it!
 
Truth to tell, I used the SEM equivalent and got a gun with two tubes... and needed a third for the "dog-leg" patches onna rear fenders.
 
Bought it at a local paint and body shop here in Orlando called Finishmaster. The price of 2 tubes and a free gun was less than the price of a gun and a tube.
Rick
 
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