Floor pan insulation panel

[chicken]

I have a BJ7 and i am just fitting the insulation panels in the engine bay and floor pan.
The insulation panel i have for the floor pan is not the same size as the floor itself(is this correct), and thus
it can be fitted anywhere within the left hand passenger footwell.
Should it be fitted hard up against the front and left hand side of the floor pan or do i have to take the exhaust into consideration.
Rob

 

[Keoke]

Hi Chicken, the panel that mounts in front of the foot well should be provided with thermal standoffs creating a space behind it of approximately 1". the one on the side can be fitted directly to the metal.--Fwiw--Keoke

 

[JamesWilson]

John Loftus had a photo with measurements on his website but I've lost the page reference to it. He's a member here and if you send him a private mail I'm sure he'll tell you how to access it. His site is a nice one with some excellent art: https://www.loftusdesign.com

I've got some measurements from a BJ8 and doubt that they differ from the BJ7s.

I laid the insulation panel on the top of the floor and used it to locate the holes for attaching it to the bottom- this was much easier than trying to locate and drill the holes from underneath. The insulation panel does not but up against the sills but gets pretty close, and I used the measurements from John Loftus and from my old car to position it front-rear.

The panel should come with a number of square spacers to distance it from the floor, and some large, thick washers for the nuts that hold it in place.

 

[terp83]

Rob:

This past fall I installed an aftermarket floor insulation panel on my '62 BT7. This panel has the same apparent configuration as the one pictured in James Wilson's post above. The driver's seat, but not the seat tracks, was removed. A cardboard template of the floor insulation panel was made. This template included the fastener holes and the access holes for the left seat track to floor bolts. The template was then carefully cut to fit snugly around the left seat track. This gets rid of the access holes in the template as the cut is made along that line. Office correction fluid was used to mark the position of the fastener holes on the template. The template was removed, and the holes were drilled. I was then able to install the insulation panel. This was pretty much done with the exhaust system in place, except it was necessary to drop it down from the rear to access the three outer fastening points.

It would have been certainly difficult and probably frustrating to measure and drill these holes from underneath the car.

 

[John Loftus]

Rob,

There are 6 weld studs that drop down from the floor to attach the heatshield that goes above the muffler. The next link shows the heat shield mounted (use large washers and Aerotight Stiff Nuts which work like nylocks but w/o nylon so they can handle the heat).

https://www.loftusdesign.net/heatshield.jpg

Notice the two additional clearance holes towards the back. Those give room for the front and middle mounting studs/nuts for the left seat track. If you need the dimensions for the seat holes take a look at the next link:

https://www.loftusdesign.net/SeatMountDims.jpg

If you look closely you can see the evidence of the heat shield weld studs. Let me know if you need any additional info.

Cheers,
John

 

[Rob Glasgow]

My BT7 did not come with a heat sheid above the muffler. Is it a worth while addition? Lord knows I would like to elimate some more cockpit heat.

Rob Glasgow
1960 BT7

 

[chicken]

Thanks to all for the information and pictures, It all makes sense now.
Keoke you say that the the insulation panel on the side can be mounted direct to the side, from my understanding I thought it had the spacers behind it !!

 

[JamesWilson]

I think Keoke meant that it could be mounted up against the side of the sill or the chassis rail, while the spacers go between the panel and the floor. On my car there were gaps at the sides between the insulation panel and the sills. I maintained those in positioning the new one. I would think a gap would allow any water and dirt to more easily come out....