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flooding????

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Arch 93

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Following an incident a while back when my 100-4 stalled in traffic and wouldn't start until after an hours wait, I've gone thru the following drill 4 times since then. Pull the choke out, hit the starter and it fires right up. Bring it up to operating temperature and shut it off. Restart immediately and it fires right up. Turn off and wait for 25 or so minutes and try again and it won't start. On the 4th try I gave the air cleaners a dose of ether when it wouldn't start and then it started. The fuel pump is practically brand new. I'm thinking that it's a flooding problem, but why and what the fix is, I'm clueless. Any help would be very appreciated.
Thanks
 
I had a similar problem where the car would run for a while then stall, It turned out to be rust in the filters due to the fuel tank. Part of your drill matches my problem, but only part.
When was the last time the carbs were rebuilt?
 
Is your fuel pump right above the exhaust? Try some heat shielding to see if that solves your problem. Or move the pump to cooler climes.
 
One possibility to stop the foolding can be one MALPASSI KING FILTER/regulator- prior the carbs
it can also STOP the rust fron tank
I follow your post -to see the solution of problem
Andrea
 
I would think that if it was not starting due to flooding,putting ether in would not get it to start.when it does not start pull a spark plug to see if it is wet if it is then check to see if you have a spark from the lead,to verify it is due to flooding or that the plug is not firing.if it is dry then it is probably lack of fuel hence it starts with ether and the problem is to do with fuel delivery- just my thoughts
 
BabaKahawa:
In July of 2003 the carbs were sent to Jim Taylor who completely rebuilt them. I'd bet that I've put less than 1000 miles on it since. Four years after this, rust was discovered in the fuel tank. The tank was pulled and reconditioned. The carbs were taken apart and the rust cleaned out. It was running fine then.
 
If you diagnose flooding, you must smell a lot of fuel, right?
You might want to check the constant flow of fuel from the pump.
Have you check the fuel line going to the carbs?
Do you have a strong source of fuel?
I would just recheck that the new pump is up to par.
Something to consider. I'm not sure I would do this test alone or
in my own garage though.
 
mikespain:
This sounds logical to me and maybe the pump is the culprit. This fuel pump was installed in 2008, but it replaced one that was installed in 2002. Maybe the fuel pumps I'm buying are junk?
Thanks
 
Arch 93 said:
BabaKahawa:
In July of 2003 the carbs were sent to Jim Taylor who completely rebuilt them. I'd bet that I've put less than 1000 miles on it since. Four years after this, rust was discovered in the fuel tank. The tank was pulled and reconditioned. The carbs were taken apart and the rust cleaned out. It was running fine then.
Click to expand...
Just a thought...there's a lot of "junk" in the fuel lines that came from the tank. You can rebuild the tank, new fuel pump and filter but you should also consider blowing out the fuel lines", if you have not already done so, with a good strong air pressure of at least 90lbs. Be sure to disconnect all of your components before doing so.
Patrick.
 
While it would be good to see if the tank and lines are clean, I'm dubious that is the problem. If the car only has starting issues when hot, that sounds like the classic vapor lock.
 
BabaKahawa:
No I don't smell any fuel at all. When the carbs were cleaned out after the tank was reconditioned The fuel lines were blown out. Even though this pump is brand new, in miles, I think your right. Check it for pressure, but also consistency of flow.
Thanks for your help
 
Next time it won't start, diconnect the fuel line from the carb and stick it in a jar or coffee can and then turn on the ignition and see if the pump is pumping gas. If not, you know you have a problem downstream of the carbs. Work backwards to the fuel tank until you find the problem.

If the gas flows to the carbs, check the float in the float bowl and the needle and seat in the bowl cover. They can stick closed just like they can stick open
 
Legal Bill said:
Next time it won't start, diconnect the fuel line from the carb and stick it in a jar or coffee can and then turn on the ignition and see if the pump is pumping gas. If not, you know you have a problem downstream of the carbs. Work backwards to the fuel tank until you find the problem.

If the gas flows to the carbs, check the float in the float bowl and the needle and seat in the bowl cover. <span style="font-weight: bold">They can stick closed just like they can stick open</span>
Click to expand...
Good call. The "impact" of the engine stating on ether could dislodge the floats/needles, allowing fuel to flow.

However, it does seem unlikely that both cars would stick; you'd think you'd get "some" firing if only one (1) carb was providing fuel...?
 
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