• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Flakey ignition switch scare

Share this page

NutmegCT

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
Bronze
Offline
While driving this morning, my ignition suddenly went off and the red light came on.

I pulled over and discovered that the ignition switch has a "dead zone". If the key just slightly (about a gazillionth of an inch) turns left from fully on, the ignition is disconnected. Further movement left reconnects the ignition circuit.

As I'd rather not repeat the experience of losing power completely unexpectedly, I wondered if anyone has experienced this, and whether the problem is the internal key/lock, or the switch itself. I'd rather not take it all apart, risking breaking something, if someone knows what might be the problem.

Now that I know how to get the circuit re-engaged (quickly turning the key fully right), I have an "out". But I'd like to get this fixed.

I find I can get a new ignition switch from VB for $25, and a new key/lock from VB for $15. I can't find the switch in the Moss or TRF catalogues. But I don't know whether it's the lock or the switch that is faulty!

Thanks.
Tom
 
Get 'em both?
 
That's cheap I had the same problem in my Spit and the switch was like 98 bucks. It was the switch. If I held the key in just the right position it would run. It got to where it would make contact in the start position, fire and as soon as I released the key it would die.
 
I had a problem with my TR3 where the DPO had cut the hot wire to the switch leaving very little left for a connection. After driving for several thousand miles, the wire vibrated loose and the ignition would occasionally cut out but would always kick back in. It happened late one night with a friend following me closely in his Healey. I were coasting down a long hill and hadn't noticed the car had stalled. Naturally, the fuel pump kept pushing gas, and when the ignition lit up, he thought the car had exploded. I guess there was quite a flame to go with the boom. I think we had to stop so he could check himself.
It wasn't good for the muffler.
 
It's happened to me on two of my 6's, feels like the current one is getting close also. You can get the switch that bolts on to the back of the lock assembly. Just a couple of screws, disconnect a harness, reconnect it, a few minutes on your back and you're done!
 
Run into this many times on various cars and motorcycles. Usually it's caused by grime on the contacts and dried grease. You can almost always fix it with nothing more than a little cleaning and relubrication.

One single times I've come across one that had worn the plastic housing down. In that case, while cleaning and lubricating helped, there was still a known deadspot. I chose to live with it myself, as I knew the location of the dead spot and how to stay out of it.
 
Back
Top