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TR2/3/3A Fitting tub on frame - 59 TR3A

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PatGalvin

PatGalvin

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Hey Guys

I just dropped tub on frame (frame is on wheels and tires, on level ground). Added two rubber TRF shims to each outrigger and used required aluminum spacers and rubber shims at front and back. Tightened all bolts and nuts. Some questions.

On one side, I have half inch gap between floor pan and inner sill top. If I crank it down, it pulls very hard on the floor pan. Do I just custom shim that to fill the gap between bottom of pan and top of inner sill? (I don't know what the correct term for this portion of inner sill is - it is the portion that sits upon the chassis outrigger). Perhaps this was an error when I fitted new floor pans but now I need to deal with it.

Fit PS front wing and door. Door doesn't fit. It was always very tight but now is way too tight?

So, do I just remove tub, add two more shims to each outrigger, and retighten all? I suppose that would elevate middle of body and pull down on back end, possibly opening door gaps.

Also, holes don't line up well where hole is provided above floor pan in rear where you need to remove shock mounting bolt. Is it not uncommon that those holes don't line up with shock mount. I suppose I can always redrill and oversize these holes and find larger diameter grommet.

Thoughts and suggestions most appreciated. Photos to follow.

Need to test fit all panels before body comes off for body work and paint.

Pat
 
There should'n't be a gap there, especially on only one side. Did you replace the floor on that side? The outter edge of the floor should rest on the top of the inner sill. This really has nothing to do with the shim pads. A pic would help...

The workshop manual specifies 4 pads per outrigger.

John
 
Hi Pat,

Not quite to where you are yet, but I have had the body on and off the frame quite a few times to do some fit checks before welding in new metal.

First question I have is about the sills and the outrigger pads. I beleive the manual does call for 4 on each outrigger as a starting point. I am not sure if you have the gap between the sill mount and the outrigger or between the floor and the top of the sill mount. From what I understand, in some cases these mounts on new sills need to be removed and re welded because of these spacing issues. If there is space in the second scenario between the floor and the top of the sill mount, you could probably put some packing pieces in there as well.

Second qestion I have is how is the fit at the rear of the door? Is it just as tight there? If not, you should probably shim out the hinges a little bit to bring the door rearwards.

What you are going to have to do it experiment alot with adding and removing shims to see the effects and this will give you an idea of how to attack a particular area. Remember that there is some small adjustment built into the hinge points on the doors as well.

Not sure what you are talking about for the shock mount bolt so can't help you there.

Cheers,
David
 
Pat here is a photo of the sill plate with the floor removed. The dark oval patch is were a dimple in the floor actually makes contact with the plate. When I replaced my floors, I had to send 3 floors back to the supplier for quality problems. One problem was lack of any dimple.

_DSC5678.jpg


If the dimple is not there, then the floor cannot touch the sill plate. The other possibility is that the floor was installed to high or the floor was bent upward by a misplaced jack.

John
 
Hey Pat
What I have found is that you will adjust as necessary , Remove a shim in the front will give a wider door gap. I feel that it is trial and error. If you need a hand just let me know Folsom is only about an hour away. I would love to see the progress and to help in any way possible.
 
Hi Guys

Thanks for all the replies. Dan, I'll PM you and would love to take you up on your offer to help. It take a lot of patience to fit this body! I'll PM you and check your schedule.

I installed new inner sills and new floor pans, so there is always a potential for error on my part. But I installed both with tub still on frame, so all lined up pretty well before I removed the tub for blasting. Both inner sills and pans were obtained from TRF. There is indeed a gap betwen the inner sill mount and floor pan (on one side). I will just find some fender washers and fill the gap as there is no way I'm cutting and moving the inner sill mounts on this one. I will add more pads to the outriggers (started with two, will add two more) and see how that works. If that doesn't create some door gaps, then I'll remove some of the rubber and aluminum spacers from the front braces, where the tub meets the diagonal member that joins the front upper shock tower.

Thanks for tips. I'll pull off the wing and wheel and snap a few photos to keep your interest.

Pat
 
That sounds like your best bet. I would think that the car would have a list if you moved the sill plate.

As far as the door gap goes...you may want to try adding a couple pads to the outriggers, as this will accomplish the same thing as removing pads from the front and rear mounts. When I took my body off, it had the exact number of pads all around as specified in the manual. When I put the recommended back in, everything lined up perfectly. I may be the exception, but you may want to try the recommended before you start your adjustments.

John
 
Thanks John

I will add pads first and let you guys know how it works. My doors were very tight before I removed body. I actually had to shorten outer sills to fit under doors.

Stay tuned. Hope to have this licked in next couple weeks, or sooner! Weather is getting nice so time to start painting!!

pat
 
Pat

It sounds like we are at about the same stage of restoration. My tub is dialed in and I have just started on the outer body panels. They all looked really good...till I took the paint off. It will be lot of welding, beating and glazing for the next several weeks!

What kills me the most is how you can get a panel perfect, take it off...but then it's like it changes shape before the next time you mount it!

I'll be watching for your progress...

John
 
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