General Tech Fitting the Pistons and Sleeves--Any TR

[KVH]

My manual appears to show the pistons with the ring clamp in place being fitted from below, not the top. Is that the correct procedure?

Also, I'm concerned that when I "gently pound" the sleeves into place the pistons will drop down onto the crank--and damage or scratch the journals. Is that a realistic concern?

thx

 

[TR3driver]

I've always done it the other way : install the liners in the block first and then install the pistons from the top. Don't know that it makes any real difference, just seems more natural to me (since I learned on engines without removable liners) and gives a convenient way of holding the liners while checking ring gaps and so on. The TR3 manual mentions this as an alternate procedure.

The rings give a good deal of friction; it seems unlikely the pistons would move just from installing the liners. But if you want, you could certainly lay a rag or something on the journals.

 

[Rut]

My manual appears to show the pistons with the ring clamp in place being fitted from below, not the top. Is that the correct procedure?

Also, I'm concerned that when I "gently pound" the sleeves into place the pistons will drop down onto the crank--and damage or scratch the journals. Is that a realistic concern?

thx

I use rod bolt rubbers to protect the bore and crank...too easy and cheap to use vs the alternative.
Rut

 

[TR3driver]

I use rod bolt rubbers to protect the bore and crank...too easy and cheap to use vs the alternative.

Not sure I understand ... are you saying you install the bolts without the caps and then fit rubbers that go over the head of the bolt?

 

[Geo Hahn]

...Also, I'm concerned that when I "gently pound" the sleeves into place the pistons will drop down onto the crank...

I'm confused - when you 'gently pound' the sleeves won't the pistons still be sitting on the workbench. I fitted the pistons from above and only after the sleeves were in.

Or did you mean to gently pound the pistons? And I agree, your usual 'soft, non-fluffy' rag to protect the crank.

 

[TR3driver]

I'm confused - when you 'gently pound' the sleeves won't the pistons still be sitting on the workbench.

TR4 workshop manual says to install the pistons into the liners first, then liners into the block. Page 1-121

 

[KVH]

TR4 workshop manual says to install the pistons into the liners first, then liners into the block. Page 1-121

I know but I'm going to do it your way from the top. Geo I meant that if I followed the Manual I'd be tapping the sleeves into place while the pistons were in, and that seems awkward but Randall is probably right that they probably wouldn't drop down.

 

[CJD]

I've never had to pound the sleeves in...only back out. Have you tested the fit yet?

 

[tdskip]

Not to hijack but how do you know when the liners are in the exact spot the need to be?

 

[KVH]

If they're protruding above the block more than .005, there's likely a problem. Gently tapping with a rubber dead blow hammer can assure they're seated home. I've only done this twice, so I'm not purporting to be an expert yet.

 

[Rut]

Not sure I understand ... are you saying you install the bolts without the caps and then fit rubbers that go over the head of the bolt?

I haven't pulled and rebuilt a TR4 engine since 1970 and I was thinking it was like MGB and Sprite engines where the rod bolts need covering as you slide the piston/rod assembly in. I guess the TR4s bolts screw in thru the rod cap into the rod vs from the rod thru the cap. Sorry for the confusion!
Rut