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First show

Jim,
I don't know. My boss owns the car I just get to restore it. I'm not sure if he will enter it for concours or not? I'm not sure if he is up to the cleaning for concours but if it doesn't get too dirty between now and then he might be fine. It will definitely be there just don't know how he is planning on showing it. I will not be able to make it.
 
At least you have your top done, I will be doing that after it is back in the shop from the show.
Jim
I am lucky I have find this top on e bay one years ago from a French seller, it was complete of all-and mounted-front wood- clamps and tenax
conditions as NEW it was fitted probably only one time, on BN6??from PO- on my car it fit really good, few millimeters from one side to the other
I have fit first the front aluminium on my windshield (not easy probably wood moved) then clamped it to the front bolts. rigged the frame in closed position
and fit the tenax on- TOP stay in this situation for a week, then loosened the tenax and opened the frame- refit the top on and close the tenax(very hard work, but not impossible) only the two rear wing turn button are take on, but not closed,(this is at the moment impossible)
sun and high temperature simplify the work- and I hope permit me to turn the buttons
then I have temporarily fixed the internal ribbons,
from the first rigging the top is always ON
my target is two months STAY ON -before the folding it-at this point I will fix the ribbons at the definitive position.
If any one interested I have a NEW pair of front clamps to SELL
Cheers
Andrea
 
I hope to see you there at the AHSTC tent. You plan to make the Hershey AHSTC Encounter in Aug? I will definitely be there Jim :driving:
 
Well here are a couple of pics as requested along with an update. The overdrive has been sorted out. After much diagnosis and system checks, test drives and calls with Randy, we decided it was either the solenoid adjustment or some dirt in the orifice of the actuating valve. I was very reluctant to have to pull the trans cover so I was able to put the car on solid jack stands and adjust the solenoid from below. It is a little tight but can just be done. If the actuating valve would have to be extracted to clean, the cover would have to definitely come off. But we were successful. The adjustment worked!!! I was able to run the car on the stands and manually operate the lever on the opposite side of the solenoid and got overdrive engagement. That told me that internally the o.d. worked, so I readjusted the solenoid and now it works electrically as it should. Many thanks again to Randy and all those who sent emails of advise and encouragement. Now to finish the top and start the resto of the hard top.
 

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Hello guys
I finished my BN4 too about 2 weeks ago. The only thing which is still missing is the top because I don't have a top bow right now.
150736_10201181409323833_100902830_n.jpg69030_10200940509104890_651379379_n.jpg
 
A word of warning on Lucas Sports coils. They have a faster rise time than a conventional, general purpose coils, which means they are more likely to arc across the inside of the distributor cap or the rotor arm. There's no real benefit and they might cause problems, so best use a standard one.
 
Tis the season for the BN4's. Great job Chris. I'll bet the baby likes riding in the open air (noticed the baby seat in the back).
 
Congratulations. Great to see a Longbridge doing so well. Chalk one up for the 100-Six owners! Totally minor point, but didn't the Longbridge cars have the band type hose clips rather than the wire type? Just curious. I have the wire type on mine because I prefer the look.
 
Yes they probably would have the band type but I also prefer the look of the wire type and I feel I can trust the wire type more over the band type. This car will be driven by my boss who is not the most mechanical and don't want to have him and his wife stranded in Canada with me here in Louisiana.
 
didn't the Longbridge cars have the band type hose clips rather than the wire type?

Hi Derek,

I'm not convinced that all Longbridge cars had band clamps on the breathers. The early ones definitely had them but I have a number of engine pics and my best guess is that all cars after late-56 have wire clamps. Possibly they changed when the second type of gallery head was introduced and the vacuum trap thingy on the advance line was deleted. Doesn't appear to be any change points associated with these differences.

Andy.
 
Well here are a couple of pics as requested along with an update. The overdrive has been sorted out. After much diagnosis and system checks, test drives and calls with Randy, we decided it was either the solenoid adjustment or some dirt in the orifice of the actuating valve. I was very reluctant to have to pull the trans cover so I was able to put the car on solid jack stands and adjust the solenoid from below. It is a little tight but can just be done. If the actuating valve would have to be extracted to clean, the cover would have to definitely come off. But we were successful. The adjustment worked!!! I was able to run the car on the stands and manually operate the lever on the opposite side of the solenoid and got overdrive engagement. That told me that internally the o.d. worked, so I readjusted the solenoid and now it works electrically as it should. Many thanks again to Randy and all those who sent emails of advise and encouragement. Now to finish the top and start the resto of the hard top.
Whew, big sigh of relief!

Hi Derek,

I'm not convinced that all Longbridge cars had band clamps on the breathers. The early ones definitely had them but I have a number of engine pics and my best guess is that all cars after late-56 have wire clamps. Possibly they changed when the second type of gallery head was introduced and the vacuum trap thingy on the advance line was deleted. Doesn't appear to be any change points associated with these differences.

Andy.
Andy, as this was a judgement call on my part, what do you think about the amount of "overspray" onto the carburettors and exhaust manifolds?

I know that the engines were painted after final assembly, and doubted that there was any real effort to mask anything off. After all, this was just a workaday job to the blokes at the Morris engines plant.

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(Jim's picture posted above)
 
Hey Randy,

Sorry I don't really have any more info than you re the painting of the carbs and spacers. Neither engine I have had any paint on them and I have a pic of an original mid-60s sedan with paint, albeit in the Morris green. Andy.
 
Thanks Andy. I had conferred with The Boss (this car's owner ;) ) about the possibility of it being the dark green color (I've personally seen 2-ports that color a long, long, looong time ago) but this engine, that's numbers matching to the car, still had traces of the light green metallic paint in places. There was no reason to think that it wasn't originally the later color.
 
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