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First Race-2006
- Thread starter aeronca65t
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D
Deleted member 3577
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
It's an attempt to keep vintage racing from becoming a high speed demo-derby like the SCCA.
Keeps a moron from repeatedly bouncing his Crosley HotShot off your EX182. (MGA) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
It's an attempt to keep vintage racing from becoming a high speed demo-derby like the SCCA.
Keeps a moron from repeatedly bouncing his Crosley HotShot off your EX182. (MGA) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
D
Deleted member 3577
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
[ QUOTE ]
Funny thing is, I PUT A SWAY BAR ON IT!! I went with the 5/8" size, not thinking I would ever auto-x it. A little larger than the stock size but not too big I thought. Now I can see the value in the larger sizes! Oh yeah, I also put on new springs in front, rally springs in back, heavy duty shock valving all around, and poly bushes everywhere.
Even funnier, those pictures are of turns obviously, but I'm not turning, I'm still moving straight and tearing up my all season tires BAD!
[/ QUOTE ]
Sway bars are best used for final/fine adjustments.
Got to get it close w/ springs first.
My suggestion....Go with a good road racing set up first.
Then tighten it down a bit with adjustable (front?) shocks (at the Auto-X)
Consult someone who has experience setting up your car. It will save you $$$
(Where is Tony Barnhill?......He knows MGB-GTs)
[ QUOTE ]
Funny thing is, I PUT A SWAY BAR ON IT!! I went with the 5/8" size, not thinking I would ever auto-x it. A little larger than the stock size but not too big I thought. Now I can see the value in the larger sizes! Oh yeah, I also put on new springs in front, rally springs in back, heavy duty shock valving all around, and poly bushes everywhere.
Even funnier, those pictures are of turns obviously, but I'm not turning, I'm still moving straight and tearing up my all season tires BAD!
[/ QUOTE ]
Sway bars are best used for final/fine adjustments.
Got to get it close w/ springs first.
My suggestion....Go with a good road racing set up first.
Then tighten it down a bit with adjustable (front?) shocks (at the Auto-X)
Consult someone who has experience setting up your car. It will save you $$$
(Where is Tony Barnhill?......He knows MGB-GTs)
Simon TR4a
Jedi Knight
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
Enjoyed the race report, Nial, and the pictures. Great colour scheme on the Mini!
Are you doing Shannonville this year? Or Cayuga? Or Mosport?
Simon.
Enjoyed the race report, Nial, and the pictures. Great colour scheme on the Mini!
Are you doing Shannonville this year? Or Cayuga? Or Mosport?
Simon.
Nunyas
Yoda
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
[ QUOTE ]
Even funnier, those pictures are of turns obviously, but I'm not turning, I'm still moving straight and tearing up my all season tires BAD!
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, if you've initiated the turn and the car is still traveling straight forwards, then you're "understeering". You're bar _might_ be too big already, or you could be braking way too late for the turns. Judging from the car's pitch in the pictures, I'd guess you're braking a bit too late for the turns. The front tires only have so much traction. If you're braking as you start turning, it's easy to excede the traction limits of the front tires.
If I'm not mistaken, best practice for turn execution is to brake in the straight before the turn, initiate the turn, sustain a constant speed approaching the apex, start accelorating at the apex, and continue accelorating out of the turn. Of course, car balance and tire traction will change the characteristics of the car in turns and naturally the speed in which you can take the turns.
[ QUOTE ]
Even funnier, those pictures are of turns obviously, but I'm not turning, I'm still moving straight and tearing up my all season tires BAD!
[/ QUOTE ]
Well, if you've initiated the turn and the car is still traveling straight forwards, then you're "understeering". You're bar _might_ be too big already, or you could be braking way too late for the turns. Judging from the car's pitch in the pictures, I'd guess you're braking a bit too late for the turns. The front tires only have so much traction. If you're braking as you start turning, it's easy to excede the traction limits of the front tires.
If I'm not mistaken, best practice for turn execution is to brake in the straight before the turn, initiate the turn, sustain a constant speed approaching the apex, start accelorating at the apex, and continue accelorating out of the turn. Of course, car balance and tire traction will change the characteristics of the car in turns and naturally the speed in which you can take the turns.
Matthew E. Herd
Jedi Warrior
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
That's a good point. I'm pretty sure you're right, in that the brakes might still be on hard at this point. You're supposed to ease off the brakes as you ease into the turn (gradually). The more classical approach is to finish braking completely, then turn in, but that's not using the traction circle to its full potential.
That's a good point. I'm pretty sure you're right, in that the brakes might still be on hard at this point. You're supposed to ease off the brakes as you ease into the turn (gradually). The more classical approach is to finish braking completely, then turn in, but that's not using the traction circle to its full potential.
D
Deleted member 3577
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
Doesn't matter what part of the turn you are in or how badly you were screwing up during the picture.
You have to get rid of that roll in order to keep your camber under control.
You can't tell by the sig. but, I am drifting left to right (driver's) around a cone that is not in the photo. yet the roll is not extreme.
BTW, there is no sway bar on the Elva, front or rear. ( nor will there ever be )
I have tie down shocks that are not adjustable.
Valved properly, you can run them on a bumpy road to the Auto-X & not have to make any adjustments.
Use a bump travel indicator to make sure you have it right.
I have gone through absolute he11 trying to get the springs/valving correct.
Don't reinvent the wheel, talk to someone like Tony B.
Doesn't matter what part of the turn you are in or how badly you were screwing up during the picture.
You have to get rid of that roll in order to keep your camber under control.
You can't tell by the sig. but, I am drifting left to right (driver's) around a cone that is not in the photo. yet the roll is not extreme.
BTW, there is no sway bar on the Elva, front or rear. ( nor will there ever be )
I have tie down shocks that are not adjustable.
Valved properly, you can run them on a bumpy road to the Auto-X & not have to make any adjustments.
Use a bump travel indicator to make sure you have it right.
I have gone through absolute he11 trying to get the springs/valving correct.
Don't reinvent the wheel, talk to someone like Tony B.
Matthew E. Herd
Jedi Warrior
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
Keep in mind that your body is dramatically lighter and lower than our stock B's and Midgets. A front bar is somewhat necessary for my midget, at least.
Keep in mind that your body is dramatically lighter and lower than our stock B's and Midgets. A front bar is somewhat necessary for my midget, at least.
D
Deleted member 3577
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
I REALLY,really.....really.. hate to admit this BUT,........
My 2600 lb Pinto handles about as well as the 1300 lb Elva. (all things considered)
The Pinto has #700 springs & a 1" sway-bar up front.(& corners flat)
The Elva has #250 springs & no sway-bar up front.(& rolls a bit)
It's all in the set up.........
I got the Pinto nailed down on the 1st try because someone told me how to do it.
(except for playing with tires, camber, caster & toe)
Yes the Pinto is a fat pig on a Auto-X course, but I would NEVER go 120 mph in the Elva. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
I REALLY,really.....really.. hate to admit this BUT,........
My 2600 lb Pinto handles about as well as the 1300 lb Elva. (all things considered)
The Pinto has #700 springs & a 1" sway-bar up front.(& corners flat)
The Elva has #250 springs & no sway-bar up front.(& rolls a bit)
It's all in the set up.........
I got the Pinto nailed down on the 1st try because someone told me how to do it.
(except for playing with tires, camber, caster & toe)
Yes the Pinto is a fat pig on a Auto-X course, but I would NEVER go 120 mph in the Elva. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
mattmacklind3
Jedi Hopeful
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
I don't want to add any springs that may lower my car any, as I drive it all the time on the roads and its plenty low. Other than the rally springs in the rear, I can't find any springs that are firmer without being lower as well. Am I looking in the wrong place?
I don't want to add any springs that may lower my car any, as I drive it all the time on the roads and its plenty low. Other than the rally springs in the rear, I can't find any springs that are firmer without being lower as well. Am I looking in the wrong place?
D
Deleted member 3577
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Re: *Results*-First Race-2006
You have a wide variety of choices in spring diameters, lengths & rates.
Also, the adjustable perch shocks allow you to adjust ride height to some degree.
You have to measure everything at your preferred ride height. ( shock eye to shock eye as well as compressed spring length)
Then measure uncompressed spring length and have your spring dynoed for a base line.
After all that you find a company that sells the setup you need and then comes the part you will probably get wrong a few times...........Guess your new spring weights.
Tie down single adjustable shocks allow you to set your rebound rate via a little knob.
You can drive your car loose to the track then simply turn the knob and have a instant track weapon. ( that you can otherwise drive on the road over bumps)
You have a wide variety of choices in spring diameters, lengths & rates.
Also, the adjustable perch shocks allow you to adjust ride height to some degree.
You have to measure everything at your preferred ride height. ( shock eye to shock eye as well as compressed spring length)
Then measure uncompressed spring length and have your spring dynoed for a base line.
After all that you find a company that sells the setup you need and then comes the part you will probably get wrong a few times...........Guess your new spring weights.
Tie down single adjustable shocks allow you to set your rebound rate via a little knob.
You can drive your car loose to the track then simply turn the knob and have a instant track weapon. ( that you can otherwise drive on the road over bumps)