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First Post, With Questions.

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Dr_EluSivE

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Hello! This is my first post, and i have some Questions to ask but first i will introduce myself. My name is paul and i am In southern Illinois, I have a 1973 MG midget, Teal blue with a white top, it was hastily restored several years ago but needs a paint job and a transmission. Its a work In progress. For those interested i am Also in the process of Dropping a 250Hp Thunderbird Turbo coupe Motor into my Daily driver.. a 92 Mustang Lx Hatchback. Its a fun project as well. You can read More about both cars on my website https://mypage.siu.edu/danko
Anyway.. on to my questions... I need to do something with my ignition on the midget, it currently has the stock dizzy, the vac advance module is broken and i am sure the shaft has some play in it as well. what are some goos electronic conversions for the 1275. I have been told that a small ford dist. (like a festiva) will fit right in but i have never seen it done. I want to make it a little more reliable and better starting. Also I do not have a carbon canister or any of the hoses hooked up to my valve cover, I am told this can cause crank case pressure and lead to oil leakage (more than normal for a MG) Anyone know if this is true? And how too hook that stuff up? I have many more Questions but i will stop there for now. I have been looking for a good MG board for a while now. This is the best i have found so far. Thanks!

Dr.
 
If the shaft is worn, try your local parts stores for a rebuilt. If you can't find one Gerry Masterman can rebush it for you
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Actually, on that year car, the vacuum advance provides limited benefit. I've removed the vacuum unit on my similar 1275.
The "play" you speak of may be axial play (if that's what you mean?) and is normal. In other words, if you grab the distributor rotor and find you can roatae it 15 degrees (or so), this is normal (and is caused by the centrifual advance mechanism). This "play" is normal.
As for conversions to alternate distibutors, I've considered this, but ended up using the Pertronix points conversion in a noraml Lucas unit...very reliable so far, and took only 20 minutes to install. One of our members (spritenut) does have a page showing conversion to a Japanese distributor in a Sprite.....I've seen the page, but didn't bookmark it. You could e-mail him and I'm sure he can direct you to the site. You can find him by using the "search" area (for spritenut) in BCF (I'd limit the search to the Austin Healey forum.
 
Welcome to our humble forum - it is the best British car forum in the planet (it's hard to be humble sometimes
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) Anyway, you are locted near my old stomping grounds. I lived in Troy, IL from 87 to 92. Glad you found the forum and hope you will be a regular here! Be sure to play our virtual rally game. I new game will be starting shortly so stay tuned!

Basil
 
I like and use the pertronix conversion. As has been said it's very easy to install. It is all inside the distributor so the is no box and extra wires to clutter up your engine bay. I also use their coil when doing the conversion. I have experianced problems in the past not doing that. As for shaft wear, it's not an issue with the conversion. Because the cam doesn't come into play with electronic ign.
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Steve:
Welcome!! I saw the pictures of the Midget on your website, looks like a fun little car. Now turbocharging a Midget? Hmmmmmm. Wild idea.<hr></blockquote>

Yeah, its simply a idea at this point. i have a feeling i would blow up my rearend, tranny, and axles if it made too much power but i think the bottom end would hold up. I dont want to remove the 1275, I just want it to make more power. I could swap in a 12A or 13B rotary but I think the 1275 should stay.. its just not a Midget without it.

Dr.
 
Tom B has as his daily driver a very high HP Midget, and from what I hear, it holds up very well
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