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First drive - Several Questions if you don't mind.

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Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

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I re-built both the clutch MC & Slave and not a drip anywhere. (who was it that bet me $5?)


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That would be me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif. No offense, but I still maintain that rebuilding aluminum cylinders is false economy, slave or wheel. I'm happy that yours is not leaking.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

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...I think I need to enlist SWMBO (aka the bleederwoman) for another round. She hates to pedal push for some reason, probably because I bark orders at her /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif. My 6yr old is almost there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

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Bleeding the brakes of my old Jimmy nearly cost me my marriage /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I bought a Mityvac and completed the job and have a happy 13 year marriage to show for it.

However, were I to do it again, I would build my own "power bleeder" from a garden sprayer and never look back.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Thanks Steve but I am all gung ho to learn as much as I can and to tell you the truth it was not that bad to rebuilt & kinda fun.

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How old is the gas in the tank? Modern gas seems to have a shelf life of about 4-6 months. It'll still burn after that but it won't burn well.
Your clutch trouble could still be an air bubble in the system. Notice how the hard line from the clutch master goes up after it comes out of the master cylinder. It's not uncommon for a small bubble to be trapped in the bend where the line turns back down. It'll let the fluid by underneath when your bleeding it but will compress when you try to move the slave (work the clutch). With the bleeder open slam the pedal down as hard and as quickly as you can, close the bleeder, let the pedal up and do it a few more times. This usally works for me. I have had to reverse bleed the clutch on a couple of B's. You need to force the fluid back up quickly into the master from the bleeder nipple. A cheap grease gun (new!)that you fill with dot 4 works for this. Thanks for the warm welcome and good luck!

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Gas is new 93 Octane but I did not take the tank out to drain, I used the fuel pump as there was not much in there.

The car did not have a fuel filter and I added one. Good thing because it is filled with gunk. Will using a filter restrict flow in anyway.

Why did MG not install them at the factory?
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

To add to my post above.

tn_5-30-06-Fuelfilter002.jpg


This is only after 30 miles of driving & about 10 minutes of running in the garage. I know what your gonna say.

Oh... brake & clutch bleed was perforemed by me and my 10 year old son. First time actaully helping me with the car. "Push - hold - release"
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

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Why did MG not install them at the factory?

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They did, at least all of my MGBs had one. Usually found on the driver/near side inner fender just opposite the forward air cleaner.

And that filter looks yucky /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Time to get the tank boiled at a radiator shop - perhaps. New filter too sometime in the near future.... (even though it looks ok to me - I might be missing something)
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

I believe early filters were located inline just forward of the fuel pump by the RH rear wheel. They were metal things that would rust and that you couldn't see into to check the condition of them.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Keep changing filters and drive it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

[ QUOTE ]
Keep changing filters and drive it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

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Not what I was expecting to hear but what I wanted to hear. To a degree.

The filter that is on there is a $5 one from Autozone and I thought I might keep replacing them. I went and spent about $10 on a glass one with replacable cartridges but then I started having starting problems as it is not as free flowing as the cheapie.

Once I switched back it ran again. Coincidence, I am not sure.

Could the sputterring be from the SP wires? It is the only thing I did not replace. Should I check the static again? Adjust the valves? Re-gap the points/plugs?

The bogging is really only at take off. From what I can feel, it runs nicer at higher RPMS.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Get a few more of the cheapies and keep an eye on 'em. Change as they get nasty, see if the interval gets longer between changes...

Sounds as if the mixture is set a bit richer than it should be. Or mebbe a vacuum leak? Dampers have oil level correct? It doesn't sound like a fuel supply issue. I'd say switch out the wires just on G.P., and keep the old set as spares if the condition is not cured. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Over the time you've been posting we've come to understand you aren't "green" at this kinda stuff, just MGB's, so now I'm tossing out ideas for your consideration: practical vs. "perfect world" fixes. When you static timed it, you had the mechanical advance hard against the stop, right? Again, just tossin' ideas out.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

More cheapies, not a problem.

A bit richer than it should? Is there an easy way to diagnose without sophisticated equip? The only thing I used on the carbs was a unisyn although I just came across this site. Too much info?

https://sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm

Vacuum leak. Hmmm. Do I check rubber hoses leading to & from the block to determine this?

Oil level should be fine but run it by me again. Is it about 1/8" below the neck of the dashpot?

Wires again no problem. I have a new set of them for the Midget project from MOSS. Can I use these or should I run out to Autozone?

Not green but not afraid to try anything. Thanks for the compliment.

When I static timed, the crank was aligned at 10Âş. Cap off and points should have been set to .015" I loosened the nut on the dizzy & set it using a test light. This was as per your instructions in my "Timing" post.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthread...true#Post204699

I don't recall any info in regards to Mechanical advance being hard against the stop. Fill me in on this.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

That tool is for synchronizing the carbs, if i'm not mistaken.

Hmmm... the lowest tech method for getting the mixture right (ball parked is a better description) I've found was in my Haynes manual. It describes the exhaust tone at idle as "splashy" and unpredictably uneven at idle when too lean, smooth even tone when right, and cyclic "miss" (darn near metronomic) when too rich. However, that method is easier to manipulate with a single carb than it is with twin carbs, because the single carb effects all four cylinders.

Finding a vacuum leak can be as simple as spraying a small amount of carb cleaner around the different vacuum line fittings, and gasket seals while listening for engine RPM changes.

With dual carbs, I believe most people recommend the use of two Guson Color Tunes ( Gunson Color Tune ) on the car: one in #1 and one in #4 to ensure that the mixtures in both carbs is the same. People say it can be done with 1 Color Tune, but it's easier to do it with two. The idea would be to get the color of the combustion in the two cylinders to match.

Hope that helps.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

I think the color tunes are about $50 each? Sounds like a better method than ball park so I might have to look into them. I will be doing this for awhile and I want to make sure I do as much of the wrenching on these cars myself.

I would assume that the CT could be used for any MG and that it would steer you in the direction of the correct color?
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

It can be used in any engine that you can thread it into, really. Basically gives ya a peep hole where the sparkplug normally is so you can see the color of the burn, and adjust the fuel mixture to obtain the correct color. However, I think it's most useful on engines with carburetors that are easily adjusted (e.g. SU or ZS equipped).
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

Yes, the CT is a good tool. Pricey but they work well.

A mixture setting to try: bring the jets up to exactly level with the brass sleeves they ride in, then lower them 12 "flats" on the adjuster nuts. That is a great way to start the mix adjustment. Then do the lift-pin test at idle. Keep in mind you're lifting one piston to check the other carb's setting. I.E. lifting the front piston is giving you info on the back carb & vice-versa. The RPM's should momentarily rise then drop and the car should keep running at a lower RPM.The Haynes and Bentley books both cover this quite well.
 
Re: First drive - Several Questions if you don't m

UniSyn is a tool for balancing or matching the volume thru the carbs, nothing to do with mixture adjusting (practically).
 
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