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Finished Them Brakelines!

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B

blkcorvair

Jedi Knight
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Well, I am very pleased I chose to fab my own lines instead of buying and waiting 6 wks for a prebent kit. Only took 2 nights and saved $170. Hit all the old fittings on a wire wheel, They shined up like new! Almost look stainless.

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Those old fittings are steel, they will rust. Put a bit of something on them.
 
I'm with you, Nail. That's a very clean looking car. Once I've driven Tunebug for a couple years, I'd like to do the same and strip him down completely. Got to dive a bit first, though.
 
Take it from me, a clean rebuild does not stay that way.
 
About 210 Ben.

However, in the next week or so I get to start over with a fresh engine. That works correctly I hope, then I will get some miles and lots of smiles.

Shoot there are times I would like to strip her down and start over. Lots of things I could improve.
 
On my B, I kept the original brake lines too. I cleaned them up with sand paper (which unfortunately removes the zinc) and finished them off with clear coat. They look new!
 
There ya go, what ever works. Even clear nail polish is tough stuff.
 
Jack, Miss Agatha is a lady. Pretty, pretty, pretty! I realize as we lbc owners in KC are running out of good weather to drive our cars, yours is starting, get Miss Agatha together so you can enjoy. This summer I've enjoyed about 4500 miles on my new motor combo.
 
I picked the little blue bugeye up at lunch for a drive to work and a later drive home. The more I drive her the better I feel. I guess I'm getting used to the little sounds the car makes. I'm still babying the engine obviously and I can't seem to get rid of a little tick sound even after readjusting the valves over the weekend.

Beginning to think it may be a small exhaust leak at the header. Sorry to hi-JACK the thread but it seemed like an appropriate place to talk about it.

Bugeye Ben in SC /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Lou, two things to keep an eye on.
1.Be careful installing the engine, as the front line could get hit pretty easily. The original ran under the rack, forward of the rack crossmember. My GT6 is the same way as your installation, as factory, and the manual shows how to make a cover for it to protect the line durring engine removal/installation.

2. Make sure the rear line isn't going to hit the bottom of the floor under full suspension deflection.

No criticism, just a couple of facts you should be aware of.
Jeff
 
Thanks jeff, did check those clearances on my street car first, I snapping engine and trans in one at at time. Little more time consuming but I like the manuverability of doing them one at a time. Figure Ill lay moving blankets over all those "likely to be nicked" areas. Ive tempted fate too many times before only to be shot down! That middle square line in my pic that looks close to the floor is not on the axle. Its actually the main line from the front looped over the tunnel opening down into the hose. (fixed to the body)
 
I see the rear line better now, Lou. You ran it on the left side of the tunnel, rather than the right side. That's what threw me off. On my racer, the rear line runs through the proportioning valve in the cockpit.
Jeff
 
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