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Finally my HVDA is in !
- Thread starter gubba
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T
Tinster
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Guest
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Sorry guys!
Someone's got to be the stupid kid on the block
when it comes to auto mechanics.
Ask me about salt water fishing or cutting marble
and I'm not so stupid .
Cool looking tranny!!!
Yes, I want one.
NO, the Boss will not permit it.
d
Someone's got to be the stupid kid on the block
when it comes to auto mechanics.
Ask me about salt water fishing or cutting marble
and I'm not so stupid .
Cool looking tranny!!!
Yes, I want one.
NO, the Boss will not permit it.
d
T
Tinster
Guest
Guest
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Very true, Don.
We have more cars than the population. My average
driving speed over a year is probably around 20-25 mph.
PR is a small island with traffic clogged streets.
Ask Ben or David or Frank. Ben drove the most. He was on
highway No 3 to the rain forest. I'll bet he averaged less
than 30 mph, round trip from his hotel.
The longest stretch of open highway I can think of
is maybe 40 miles, with toll booths every 7 miles or so.
OD would be useless here.
d
We have more cars than the population. My average
driving speed over a year is probably around 20-25 mph.
PR is a small island with traffic clogged streets.
Ask Ben or David or Frank. Ben drove the most. He was on
highway No 3 to the rain forest. I'll bet he averaged less
than 30 mph, round trip from his hotel.
The longest stretch of open highway I can think of
is maybe 40 miles, with toll booths every 7 miles or so.
OD would be useless here.
d
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
gubba said:
I think the difference is that instead of using the file manager, I clicked the 3rd icon from the left "Enter an Image" on THIS REPLY SCREEN (hit reply to see it now).
It pops up a prompt for a URL (https://internet location.jpg) of your image. Since mine were already on the web, I used this option. If yours are on your PC, use the file manager.
And BTW I love the BRG on your 3; is it a Jaguar color?
Also what shift lever are you using, short like a TR3 but bent? Too short to be a TR4/A.
OP
gubba
Senior Member
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Peterk..the color is the very own Lordco Green. A local auto parts dealer here in my part of the world. This car is a 1962 registered 1963 TR3b and the stick is out of the original tranny..so I dont no..since my 61 Tr3a has a long skinny one. The lever has a great throw and not much differant feel from the original tranny..just smoother.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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As noted, the trick is small file size for photos loaded on this server.gubba said:
However, I just wanted to say Thanks! for loading the larger photos. Those are great shots & I've saved a copy.
Interesting gas pedal /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Hey gubba,
That's a nice TR3 you got there!
We are (or were) practically neighbours. I live in Abbotsford. I'm the one with the green TR6, probably the only one in the area, at least that I've seen. We'll be moving to Richmond in mid Jan.
Where did you get the transmission from?
That's a nice TR3 you got there!
We are (or were) practically neighbours. I live in Abbotsford. I'm the one with the green TR6, probably the only one in the area, at least that I've seen. We'll be moving to Richmond in mid Jan.
Where did you get the transmission from?
AltaKnight
Jedi Knight
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This HVDA conversion interests me since my tranny has a disconcerting rattle under heavy acceleration; ie most of the time!
I know both the Supra and Truck gearboxes fit physically, but I think the Supra has a better ratio set giving longer legs?
Is that right?
I know both the Supra and Truck gearboxes fit physically, but I think the Supra has a better ratio set giving longer legs?
Is that right?
martx-5
Yoda
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Here's a gear ratio chart from Herman's site. IIRC, the right hand column under the Celica listing is the Supra ratios. The one with the OD as 0.783.
AltaKnight
Jedi Knight
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Thanks Martx-5 for the link
Gubba & PeterK where did you get your Toyota transmissions, are they fairly common in wreckers yards?
I see the HVDA kit is not cheap but it looks like a quality kit and has the hydraulic throwout bearing.
What would I expect to pay for the tranny?
Gubba & PeterK where did you get your Toyota transmissions, are they fairly common in wreckers yards?
I see the HVDA kit is not cheap but it looks like a quality kit and has the hydraulic throwout bearing.
What would I expect to pay for the tranny?
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Not only common, but cheap. Very good used boxes are basically scrap in Japan (which has some funny laws making a 4 yo car cost more to own than a new one), so there are businesses that buy them as scrap over there and bring them here.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]AltaKnight said:
I see the HVDA kit is not cheap but it looks like a quality kit and has the hydraulic throwout bearing.[/QUOTE]FWIW, the hydraulic TOB is not a requirement. You can delete it in favor of an external slave (stock Toyota setup), and save several $100.
martx-5
Yoda
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AltaKnight said:
They can be had for anywhere between $125 and about $250. I bought one off e-bay for $175...plus $60 shipping. One of the guys in the club picked one up locally for $150.
Herman's site also gives info on how to check if the tranny is in good shape and hasn't been abused. These units are pretty tough, so finding a good one should be easy...which is one of the reasons they are cheap...no demand. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
PeterK
Yoda
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Average price I paid is around $200, shipping is always the killer so if you can find one locally, then better. With shipping I paid $200 (truck) and $275 (Supra) and ...
The kit in our TR3 came new in the box from a failed project and I paid $800 for the kit, hydraulic t/o and a nice Supra tranny. I found it locally so no shipping either.
These trannies are used in several different conversion, not just TRs so are not all that easy to find, but they're out there. Rebuilding is very expensive so look for a good one.
If you opt out of the hydraulic t/o bearing (cost around $300 just for the t/o w/o ss lines), and go for the master/slave setup, you'll save some $$ but IMO the hydraulic is a really nice way to go. The hydraulic t/o hooks up directly to the master and there is no clutch arm or push rod to fool with, ever.
The kit in our TR3 came new in the box from a failed project and I paid $800 for the kit, hydraulic t/o and a nice Supra tranny. I found it locally so no shipping either.
These trannies are used in several different conversion, not just TRs so are not all that easy to find, but they're out there. Rebuilding is very expensive so look for a good one.
If you opt out of the hydraulic t/o bearing (cost around $300 just for the t/o w/o ss lines), and go for the master/slave setup, you'll save some $$ but IMO the hydraulic is a really nice way to go. The hydraulic t/o hooks up directly to the master and there is no clutch arm or push rod to fool with, ever.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Right. Meaning that if you need to adjust the clutch, you have to pull the gearbox and change the number of shims behind the TOB. Likewise, if the seals start to leak, out with the gearbox.PeterK said:
I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the hydraulic TOB; just that like so many other 'improvements', it involves compromises. And costs money.
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
Randall,
You are right in that the clutch adjustment is done prior to install. But is not required afterwards. The T/O bearing that Herman uses does not require shims, that was on the original setup. He now uses a McLeod race type t/o bearing that is adjusted by turning out the center bearing a couple of turns until the clearance is reached (I know same same). It also comes with replacement seals should they be needed.
The clearance is set to .100-.120" between the face of the t/o bearing and the face of the clutch pressure plate. It is not a wear adjustment as the t/o bearing takes care of that. So the only time you have to take out the gearbox is to change the clutch disc or if the t/o leaks.
BUT (a big BUT), the TR fork issues, clutch rod adjustment, slave cylinder, not to mention the TR t/o bearing failure, most of which also require gearbox out ... are gone. It's a tradeoff that's been very good to me. AND, you also get a 5th gear capable of lowering your revs on the highway AND a very dependable gearbox. NFI but I'm sold on this conversion.
You are right in that the clutch adjustment is done prior to install. But is not required afterwards. The T/O bearing that Herman uses does not require shims, that was on the original setup. He now uses a McLeod race type t/o bearing that is adjusted by turning out the center bearing a couple of turns until the clearance is reached (I know same same). It also comes with replacement seals should they be needed.
The clearance is set to .100-.120" between the face of the t/o bearing and the face of the clutch pressure plate. It is not a wear adjustment as the t/o bearing takes care of that. So the only time you have to take out the gearbox is to change the clutch disc or if the t/o leaks.
BUT (a big BUT), the TR fork issues, clutch rod adjustment, slave cylinder, not to mention the TR t/o bearing failure, most of which also require gearbox out ... are gone. It's a tradeoff that's been very good to me. AND, you also get a 5th gear capable of lowering your revs on the highway AND a very dependable gearbox. NFI but I'm sold on this conversion.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Ok, Peter, I won't argue the point.
But, ask yourself this : that .100-.120" is set with the bearing pushed back as far as it goes, right ? How far do the pressure plate fingers extend as the clutch wears ? When it's more than .100-120", the clutch is going to slip until you replace the clutch (and readjust the shim pack if necessary).
But, ask yourself this : that .100-.120" is set with the bearing pushed back as far as it goes, right ? How far do the pressure plate fingers extend as the clutch wears ? When it's more than .100-120", the clutch is going to slip until you replace the clutch (and readjust the shim pack if necessary).