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Finally it has begun

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"Free" is the best kind of parts to learn on.... If you've got the Bentley manual... Read it, study it, look it through a hundred times (just concentrate on the carbs here)... then start taking them apart... Make notes and drawings... I know not everyone can remember stuff like I can.

Remember, if you screw up a "free" part and can't get it back together right... It only cost you some time. Maybe you learned something, maybe you didn't...

I say take ONE apart and put it back together several times... (cleaning them as you go)... then if you feel you've done it right... buy the rebuild kit. At worst, you learned what's in there... At best, you've got some nearly like-new carbs for your car... Probably somewhere in the middle though... But work on just one for a while... When you're pretty sure you've got it down... Do the other one - multiple times just like the first one. You'll learn and notice where you might not have done something right on the first one.

Ok, sounds like a ton of work, but this is a "free part" learning experience...

At absolute worst, you ruined both carbs (if so, you're not out any money)... But I'm thinking you might actually figure them out. Takes concentration... And don't forget the notes and drawings... reference them often.

This is "one" of the way's I learned "how to learn" how mechanical stuff works... I been taking stuff apart since I was about 5 or 6 years old, I been puting them back together successfuly since about 10 years old or so - rebuilt my grandad's lawnmower using parts from a rototiller with a thrown rod... Been all wrenching from there.

Above all... Read, Study, Take notes, and clean everything - don't wallow out holes with a pin... soak e'm in carb cleaner.... I've spent more in carb cleaner (or other misc parts cleaners) over my learning/playing-with-free-parts years than I have in parts.

If you messed up the SU's trying to figure them out though, Have someone good rebuild the ZS carb (here's my liability waiver)... Remember, you really can't mess up something that's free.... If they get messed up, imagine you never got them in the first place. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Ok, I updated, and added alot to my last post above



<bump>
 
Shucks if you get em wrong send em to Kenny, he will fix em, heh.
 
...and put 'em on my car - hehehehehe.
 
"I was thinking about doing a self-rebuild on my HIF4s since the floats have gone and gotten themselves stuck, but I decided it would be better to have Joe Curto do it - esp since he's so close!"

It took me about 10 minutes to unstick a float last week on my HS4's. All you need is a screwdriver and some carb cleaner. No biggie. I had done some fuel line work and evidentally I got some trash in the lines that made its way into the carb. Gas was dumping out the overflow. I cleaned the carb float chamber out and now runs like a champ.

Dave
 
Dave, you might just be my new best friend. The weather is supposed to be miserable today, but you know I'll be out there tomorrow. Just curious, where you able to do it with the carbs on the car? If so, is there a way that doesn't involve being a contortionist?
 
Yes, Gabe,

You can do it with the carbs on the car. Disconnect the fuel lines and the overflow lines. Remove the three screws on top of each float bowl. Lift the top plate, being careful not to damage the gasket between the plate and the bowl. The float is attached to the top plate. You can remove the float hinge pin with a pair of pliers to reveal the needle, but you shouldn't have to do that. The key is to clean the junk off the needle, so just spray carb cleaner into the fuel inlet pipe and all around the needle. When it's clean, the needle should raise and drop freely with the movement of the float. Before reinstalling, get your wife's best turkey baster /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif and suck out all of the gas in the bowls. You will find lots of gunk in the bottom of them. Spray them down with carb cleaner and suck out. Repeat this process until you're sucking out clean carb cleaner. Reinstall the float and reconnect your lines. That should pretty much cover it. Oh, one last thing. Gasoline is a great solvent, so there's really no need to wash the turkey baster before returning it to the kitchen drawer. It's probably cleaner now than it was before you started. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

Dave
 
RE: Advice about the turkey baster... DO NOT use it for brake fluid... you may get away with gasoline.

I speak from experience. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
For those who like nice tools, they do make stainless steel turkey basters. hehe
 
In my house, a stainless turkey baster would be a serious point of contention. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Usually, I take my carbs to White's Carb Service on Abingdon Road in Huntsville - yep, "Abingdon Road"...when I first found it about 13 years ago, I initially wanted to steal the street sign...then I found White's, walked in & saw all kinds of SU pieces & parts I was hooked....& he gets his kits from Joe Curto (nowadays, he asks me to order them direct)....& he even knew what engine my Rover intake with the HS-6's came from.

As he's gotten older & suffered a stroke that's limited his motor skills, I'm having to remember how to do them myselves all over again....but, he's still the most knowledgeable carb guy anywhere around here!
 
Well Tony, rebuilding the carbs is not a reall bigee except the new rods that takes a machine shop and the polishing. It's the darn polishing I would like to be able to do.
 
Jack, I've built lots of carbs over the years, polishing is just tedious....shafts can be done at home also
 
Maybe it's just me and I'm reacting to being out on the road working for the past three weeks with two more to go but the responses to this thread have gotten a little tiresome. I used to really enjoy reading this forum but I find myself looking elsewhere for information. When I finally scan through I find less and less useable information and more self-serving sales going on.
I think a lot of you guys just can't understand that many of us don't have the bottomless pit of money. Making do with used parts, buying aftermarket rebuild kits, doing most of the work ourselves is SOP. Even if it doesn't turn out perfect, we enjoy the challenges, revel in the small victories and, in fact, laugh at the guys who have to rely on all of those "experts" to build their "superior" examples of the marque.
I'll sign off now and leave you to your sandbox.
 
Stick around... I do ALL my own work - I can't afford to pay anyone else to do it... and try to help out when I can. I do tend to do the "dark humor" thing alot, but that's just me. Check out the wiring polarity thread to see an example of my helping out (and my dark humor/attitude).

In defense of Tony... NONE of his cars are "superior" examples, and I'm sure the shops he uses aren't "experts", but he does have good sources for cheap work that get's the job done in case you don't want to do it yourself... He also is very knowledgeable on MG stuff in general and in detail... But he doesn't claim to know it all.

Most suggestions here... Well, they are just suggestions. Take 'em for what they're worth but no need to attack the integrity of the site. Yes I've seen a few obviuos Advertisements for shops, services, companies, and whatever-else, (And I or someone else usually point it out as an Ad or a Plug). But, there's still good info here.

Stay with us. It's not as bad as you think. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
I do everything I can myself....Why would I pay to have something done if I can do it just as good myself? The only thing I have had done recently was a MGB clutch, because I don't have the time nor the room to pull a motor.....and I *Might* have to pay to have my TR6 diffy mounts repaired, because on my first drive(2nite) I had some suspect noises...and I am have absolutly no time to get into that kinda work
Otherwise all other repairs(and theres many) have and will be done by me.
 
Actually, looking the thread over, good advise has been given for keenan (or whoever else needs to do this) to try it himself.... Multiple times... And good suggestions for Keenan (or whoever else...) to send off his carbs (if he can afford it), multiple times. All were suggestions - not the way your thinking. It's actually a good "resourse" thread. You've got the info to start doing it yourself, and shop(s) to send 'em off to if you prefer that route.

Just my defending 2¢ worth. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Because my collection contains numerous cars, sometimes its easier for me to find good, inexpensive craftsmen to do some of the work...

....I can do it all of my own work & for years did evertything to include paint & most times still do....but sometimes I go outside...

...in this instance Keenan doesn't have the ability or knowledge or experience to do what needs to be done to his carbs. Mr. White doesn't take new customers because of his health...my point was that Keenan needs to find somebody like him in his town & let him do the work.

Oh, Jack Laird 's lowest bid to blast his car in his town was $1000 - the guy I know does it for $300...he's done several for me & local club members & donbe a great job...why is it a 'sin' to tell Jack how he can save $700? & why is it a 'sin' to try to gently point Keenan towards a craftsman in his town who can handle a project that's over his head?
 
It's not Tony... I wish I lived close enough to take advantage of some of your local craftman's good deals.

I think MGFEVER had a bad day and needed to vent.

Like I said, This thread has already become a good resource for people who "DIY", and people who would prefer to "send it out". And it's very balanced (in that respect) too.
 
I'll add my suggestion for Keenan:

I rebuilt the SUs on my Healey a little less than a year ago, and (although the ones you have there look a bit more complicated) I can confidently say that it's really not that hard. I was very careful about what I did (keeping the parts separated into categories, and only doing one carb at a time) and would ask for advice on the Healey section of BCF whenever I didn't know what I was doing. They're on the car now and it runs great, despite the fact that I dove right into it.

My advice would be to buy an official SU rebuild kit and follow the directions and diagrams that come with it. If you're uncertain that what you're doing is right, ask someone in the Healey and/or MG forums (there are some people who are very knowledgeable about SUs here).

It's fun, besides! Get a bucket of warm water with some Mr. Clean in it, and sacrifice a couple of toothbrushes for the job. Sit down in front of the TV and scrub away. Also, that incredibly noxious carburetor cleaner (the kind that comes in the big, blue container) will make them gleam like new.

I think that the people here telling you it's impossible for you to do, and that you should pay someone "to do it right" are frankly wrong. This is, of course, only my opinion, and I speak without knowing you personally.
 
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